!#$!@#$!#@$ String Ground... harumph

[-CB-]

Got the guitar all assembled, wired... oops, no string/bridge ground.   Sort of the way it goes no?  Gotta change strings atter the new nut install, so s'pose I'll add the wire in then. 

So... learn from ol' =CB='er and put that ground wire in there first thing!~

 

[Nando Vallart]

:laughing7:

 

[GoDrex]

So... learn from ol' =CB='er and put that ground wire in there first thing!~

especially if it's a TOM bridge... I don't think you'll be wanting to yank one of those posts out after it's been put it. But I don't think that's what you're talking about here.

 

[-CB-]

So... learn from ol' =CB='er and put that ground wire in there first thing!~

especially if it's a TOM bridge... I don't think you'll be wanting to yank one of those posts out after it's been put it. But I don't think that's what you're talking about here.

If you use W's hole size, hell no, they're in for the long haul.  If you use the Gibson hole size, they come out easily with a 5/16 screw and a claw hammer, backed by a nice padded piece o' wood.  Some guys use the thin "yellow pages" as a prying surface when doing the hammer trick.  Yah, I learned that from the LP forum, where guys are pulling studs on $5000 Historics with a frik'n claw hammer.  But it works.

 

[-CB-]

:laughing7:

Oh, and BTW, ... thank you , I deserve it

 

[Nando Vallart]

:laughing7:

Oh, and BTW, ... thank you , I deserve it

Nah, I was just amazed of how sometimes some guys with lots of knowledge and experience make some simple "begginer-alike" mistakes... Not only you, but probably everybody in the world...
And I still think it don't take the greatness and respect at all...


The little piece of wood you said is used to keep the stud getting off straight without crapping the finish?

 

[-CB-]

Do this at your own risk... but I've done it, told to me by guys who have....  I guess some little bit of knowing if you're going too far is needed ....

Ya know how you need a little block under a hammer, if the nail is stickin out a few inches, and you wanna pull it?  Ok same thing.

I've taken a phone book about an inch thick.  Gotten a towel, laid it on a guitar, put book on towel.  This assumes no strings or anything....  You get the RIGHT SCREW to go into the studs - metric or US thread, depending on the bridge.  Then you use the hammer's "claw" to lift the screw, and stud... straight up.  When you think its gonna tilt, readjust the length of the screw and or add a nut on the screw and or readjust the hammer position.  You go slow and easy, not jerky.  And ... they come out of Gibsons. 

To me, W uses a hole that is somewhat undersize for really hard wood, and just right for mahogany or soft wood like basswood... I open them up a bit, carefully, and even then I'm probably using too much effort to seat them.  G's seem to slide out just fine.

Note - if the hole is too big after you remove the stud, just use the magic hole tightener to build up the walls of the hole, constrict its size and make things fit tighter.  That product is SuperGlue, but... I'm tellin' ya.... let it dry for TWO WHOLE DAYS before you stick that stud back in there, or its not coming out, except with splinters attached to it, the table, and you.

 

[Nando Vallart]

Didn't understand why you use the block...  :sad1: I may be a little "slow"... In deed, never really used a block under a hammer...

 

[-CB-]

If you need to pull the nail out straight, and not elongate the hole, and the nail is long, the claw can only lift it "so far" before it bends it over.  At that point, you stick some scrap wood under the hammer to lift it up a bit, and continue prying out the nail.  Do the same on the guitar... at your own risk of course.