Strat neck replacement process - what to consider besides 4 screws

[Varmutant]

Been drooling over a complete build, but since my current 2001 Am Std Strat need crowning, I'm considering a Warmoth neck with SS frets to get started.

My question is - what do I need to have (tool wise) for the neck install and is there any good documentation to review prior to installing? It's not just a screwdriver and 4 screws, right?

 

[Rick]

When I install a neck, and we are talking just about installing, not fret dressing, adjusting the trussrod, installing tuners? If so, then you have everything you need. Except for the left handed smoke shifter which can found at Home Depot. (Just kidding on the last one!!! Welcome aboard!)

 

[Varmutant]

I was just going to get the left handed smoke shifter from the folks over at that other campsite.

I guess my question was asked poorly. I'm wondering what I need to do to get the neck working properly. I would expect some minor truss rod adjustments. Also, installing tuners can be done with a hand drill. I wondering if I need to have a precision notched straight edges, nut files and fret files and what else?

 

[bagman67]

You're also going to need a drill and bit small enough to drill pilot holes for the tuner screws. If you have one of those eggbeater hand drills, use it. Any time you save by going with a power tool on this job is hardly worth the possibility of drilling through the headstock. In any event, manual or machine, wrap a piece of tape around the bit to indicate the depth to which you want to drill. This will give you consistency and some security that you're not giving the front of your headstock acne scars.

Also, some wax or a bar of soap. You'll want to wax the threads of the screws before you run them in to reduce the chance of breakage (for the tuning machine screws, for sure - but it won't hurt to use it on the screws to attach the neck to the body, too). Pot-metal screws vs. hardwood does not always favor the metal. Wax helps even the odds.

 

[teleme01]

With a standard nut, nut files to lower string action... With ervana nut, nut files aren't a necessity... can't repeat wax enough.

 

[stratamania]

With a standard nut, nut files to lower string action... With ervana nut, nut files aren't a necessity... can't repeat wax enough.

Any nut including Earvana style, if the slots are too high you need nut files to dial things in.

 

[NedRyerson]

I wondering if I need to have a precision notched straight edges, nut files and fret files and what else?

Not right now.

While a shopping list of tools provides some reassurance for one's anxiety, it's also all based on "what if." I urge you to refrain from filling up a shopping cart until after you've inspected your new neck and then determined what you need.

You may feel that, for your playing style and preferences, you don't need to do any fret dressing. I've never bothered with any of my WM necks while I'm sure that'll make a few community members' hearts palpitate.

You may find that the slots in the nut are dialed in right to where you want.

You may also find that once you receive the neck and inspect it, something isn't quite right. You might contact WM customer service and after working through it with them, they offer a return/exchange, maybe. Then the replacement turns out even better and might not need any of these adjustments. You never know.

The tools mentioned are good to have, but unless this is going to be a regular thing of multiple necks (and not just from WM) over time, then spending anywhere from $150 to 200 and up may not make as much sense for a one-time use.

Add to those tool costs the risks of inexperience. It may be less costly in the big picture to take the neck to someone who already has those tools and the know-how.

However, multi-purpose tools like a power drill and a set of drill bits are good things to have around just for the versatility around the house. Mine are used frequently, for guitar work, for house repairs, for construction, etc. Notched straight edges, fret rockers, fret files, radius gauges, feeler gauges, and nut slot files are (mostly) purpose-built and specific to guitar work. I have them because I do use them on a regular basis, either for my own guitars and basses or friends' instruments. But my friends don't, because they know they can come to me and it's cheaper for them than buying the tools themselves.

 

[Varmutant]

Not right now.

While a shopping list of tools provides some reassurance for one's anxiety, it's also all based on "what if." I urge you to refrain from filling up a shopping cart until after you've inspected your new neck and then determined what you need.

Thanks Ned, you zeroed in on my confusion. Not sure why I need to ask silly questions before pulling the trigger, but, it is a fun part of the process for me and helps me pull together a plan.

Sounds like: get neck, review any issues with cust service then improvise, overcome and adapt.

 

[NedRyerson]

It's not a silly question. It's very common when wanting to do something correctly out of the gate. But while that desire is understandable, there's a tendency of overthink and fall into analysis-paralysis. I say this because I do the same thing, honestly. I want to put together The Perfect Order, one that has all of the parts and pieces and bits and nuggets all together so that I'm literally opening a kit box, but I get the added bonus of feeling smart enough and superior enough to have compiled that list in the first place on my own with my extensive research.

There's a deep sense of satisfaction to the prospect of it, but that's before getting deep into the weeds of the process to the point of thinking "I can't get everything together with only one supplier, I'm frustrated, and I'm getting angry." It's probably something akin to an endorphin rush, but I'm not a medical or psychological professional to say, "yeah, that's why."

 

[JohnnyHardtail]

There are a number of different things that can go wrong, or end up costing extra time and money.

OP is totally right to ask all the questions up-front. If you have not done this before, it is very difficult to adequately know what to expect.

One of the worst things I experienced was when sending a Warmoth neck to a shop to do fret work. They charged a lot of money for sub-standard work (at least it was below my expectations). It was partly due to poor work by the shop, my own inexperience, inadequate communication, and the Warmoth neck wasn't perfect in the first place either. In that case the blame was probably shared by three parties, but the cost was paid out of my pocket.

 

[Varmutant]

I'm just trying to set my expectations.

For example, I can get a customized tele neck for $444 (usd).

Would I expect to have 2 or 3 frets that need to be leveled and more than that would be manufacturer defect?

Should I just plan to need fretwork and factor that into the price?

I don't see my self getting into drawing the magic marker lines on the fret and doing the Dremel and sanding.

Trying to get a handle on the inspection process on the new neck and what is considered acceptable.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Each neck is a different piece of organic material that will likely respond uniquely when under string tension.

Once you receive the neck string it up to tension at pitch and leave it that way for up to 3 weeks to acclimate to your local environment. Only then will you be able to take objective measurements to determine your next steps. Get a notched straightedge and set the fingerboard to dead flat prior to tension to give you a recorded measurement of how much movement occurred under tension immediately after, then again in three weeks to measure how much movement occurred during those three weeks.

 

[JohnnyHardtail]

I'm not aware of Warmoth's tolerance specs either dimensionally, or in regard to fret installation. I think its purely up to the buyer to decide what they are comfortable with, and whether they choose to open any discussion about possible defects. The trouble is that you cannot return the neck after it has been installed unless Warmoth agree it is faulty. It is also difficult for the average guitar player to identify the actual problem. If taking it to a shop, they will probably attempt a fret level as a fix, even if the frets may be much smaller that what was originally intended.

My conclusion is the buyer needs to accept these risks exist. When buying a neck, you should have contingency money for taking it to a shop either for fret-leveling or just to re-cut the nut slots, even if it might seem expensive. A lot of people say fret levelling is not generally needed, but there will be probably be at least 25% of production necks that would benefit from it. There is definitely luck involved here. Fender also sell replacement necks that have some degree of fretwork and QC checks done. Those are more expensive and unfortunately do not offer stainless steel frets. In the case of Fender replacement necks, I'm unsure if they offer tolerance specs or any gurantees, so that could be a similar situation.