Strat neck help please.

[Cagey]

In my experience, larger fretwire requires less effort to play. In fact, it almost demands it. A tall fret makes it easy to sharp your notes from overpressure on the strings, so if you're manhandling the neck, you'll hear it. At least, with chords. With lead/melody, not so much. The ear isn't as discerning with single notes. Less opportunity for dissonance, which is much easier to hear.

To me, a "standard thin" x 1 11/16" roasted Maple neck that's been burnished all around and some 6100SS frets that have been leveled nicely and a properly cut nut all conspires to make one of the easiest-to-play necks you can put your paws on.

And I have an arthritis problem, too. Nothing to do about that - playing is gonna be a bitch no matter what - but the above is as good as it gets.

 

[spe111]

Fret leveling is a good point, you should factor the cost of a fret level into the purchase. The two necks I've purchased from Warmoth needed it. That will be critical to getting a low action, which is critical to minimizing knuckle pain, at least for me.

I like the 6150 frets, but I've never been a huge fret person.

 

[Kostas]

Any thoughts on the fretwire?

SS for sure, then the taller you think you'd like. If the frets are too tall you can shave them a little, if they are too low you need to refret or buy a new neck. I would also consider a Wolfgang profile, the assymetric shape feels really good and I consider it medium to thin, not thick at all. Most people are positively surprised when they play a thicker neck, I don't mean a super fat one but one with a medium profile. Maybe it would suit your hand better.

Unless you are in a hurry for a new guitar I suggest you'll visit more stores and try different guitars. Also, I think the specs of your Lonestar are these:

9.5" radius, 22 Medium Jumbo frets, 1.6875” (43 mm) nut, Modern C profile

 

[jdroost]

Man...I had not even considered I would need to get a dressing done as well...

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Wolfie feels even better on a 1 11/16" nut width!

 

[jdroost]

So while I am stewing over a conversion neck vs a 7/8 deal...I had one of these (Durango Ironhorse) pop on my local c.list for less than the price of a setup....Figured it was a good way to get my feet wet with shortscale.

https://durangoguitarworks.com/short-scale-guitars.html

It's not the worst thing..in fact..it's not bad at all.
Defiantly not a high end deal...but it's playable enough to practice on until I can decide on what I am buying from Warmoth. Was pleasantly surprised for sure.

What I have learned is...I think the small width neck is more helpful overall for my hand.
The at nut neck width on this thing is actually a very thin 40.50mm. (maybe I have an older model but page is wrong)

Is it safe to assume that the neck width at the nut  (stated nut width on warmoth page) is exactly
41.00mm on both the 7/8 and conversion necks...or is it slightly different?

 

[Cagey]

Nut width is nut width, regardless of construction style.

 

[aarontunes]

Man...I had not even considered I would need to get a dressing done as well...

Will your neck benefit form a pro fret-job? Absolutely. Is it necessary for low action? No, not typically, IME. The biggest benefit of a pro fret job, IME, is not low action, but smoother fret ends.

I've never had fretwork done on any of my personal Warmoth necks, and they all play clean with super low action. In fact, I've had to raise it from it's lowest possible setting on every one of them to get it to where I can bend strings more easily.

Pro fretwork is not an automatic, out-of-the-gate expense. String the neck up and play it. Let it settle in for a while, then decide. Could be, it never needs anything.

 

[jdroost]

I have decided a 7/8 deal will work out for me better than a conversion.
I will be able to pull parts off my Lonestar for now until I can actually afford to
build one stand alone.

Have two last questions.
Will the universal routing cause any sort of tone loss issue (noticeable) because of the lack of wood? Is there anything I can do to offset this if so (wood choice or weight selection)?

I am going to be using my American two bolt trem from the Strat.
I think I remember seeing I need to either buy a trem or send in my trem studs for Warmoth to install.
Is there an option to buy just the studs from them?

Thanks for all the help with this.
Any purchase towards fun stuff is a big deal in my household...so I need to get it right the 1st time.

 

[Cagey]

Will the universal routing cause any sort of tone loss issue (noticeable) because of the lack of wood?

No. it's a myth that persists in spite of reality.

Warmoth doesn't sell bridge mounting studs in loose quantities, but you don't have to send yours in if you think you can remove/install them yourself.  If not, then depending on the bridge you have you can probably get them online from someplace like StewMac or Allparts.

 

[jdroost]

Actually found these when doing a Google search lastnight.

http://www.warmoth.com/Fender-Tremolo-Studs-Pair-P1847.aspx

Also saw a member here built a 7/8 with a Warmoth Jag neck...and I had no idea that
would be an option as the store stated Warhead necks only.
Lot's of in stock options now if I use a Jag neck 

 

[Cagey]

How about that! I could've sworn they didn't sell those. Sorry about that. Didn't mean to mislead.

 

[jdroost]

No worries bud..you guys have been a huge help for sure.

 

[jdroost]

So my 24 3/4 conversion neck shipped today  :guitaristgif:
To say I am excited is putting it mildly.

Would like some help going over procedure and checklist.
I have my new staggered Guitarfetish locking tuners.
A stick of Beezwax for the screws,new strings,notched fret level if needed.

What should I get for the fret ends?
I have a stew mac sanding stick...but is their fret end file a better idea?
How about fret polishing rubbers (I already own 2000 to 7000 sand paper)?
Should I have string trees on standby in case the tuners are not enough to keep the strings in the nut?

Any other tips or ideas to get it bolted down correctly and playing ready?

Thanks again.

 

[MikeW]

I think you've got all the bases covered as far as tools go. A good set of tuners will solve many of the problems you're likely to encounter, and if you're comfortable enough to do a little work on the nut, then you're 95% of the way there. That last 5% is for those problem necks with weird problems that really require a pro to handle.

The first thing I do when assessing what a neck needs is to run my fingers down the sides, feeling the fret ends. Are there any fret ends that aren't level with the edge of the fretboard? Are there any fret ends that seem sharp on the crown and would damage or cut a string?  do any of the frets feel like they're not completely seated in the fretboard?

From there check relief and fret heights to see if a level is needed. A bit of work with the rubbers/files you've got to level and dress the ends and you should be good to go.

Of the several Warmoth necks that I've worked on, I've only had one that had fret ends that were sharp, only two that needed more than a cursory crowning, and only one that needed a complete fret level/dress. So chances are that you'll be pretty close right out of the box.

Good luck and keep us posted on progress!

 

[musicispeace]

I have both 1 5/8 and 1 11/16 widths. Like both. I prefer the 5/8 for thicker necks and the 11/16 does feel wider to me but the measurable difference is not ginornous. I suspect the 1 5/8 Standard Thin 24.75 scale neck would feel very playable. My personal fav is the boatneck but you gotta go with the profile that feels best for you.