Spray can finishes

[RU36]

My last guitar I finished with spray cans and it looks fine.
Granted I learned the hard way and had to sand it back sown twice.

At first I bought paint that was not white enough it was sort of egg shell.

Sanded it back down

Tried a new white that looked great.
Then turned yellow when I sprayed clear on it.

Sanded it back down.

Then sprayed it with deft clear gloss and it was clear and looks great.

What I want to know is are there any people on this board who have done finishes with spray cans and gotten good results?
Do you have any links to info on spray can finishes?
Products you can recommend?

I have a new Warmoth body on the way with a quilted maple top and I want to dye it, paint the back black (Basswood) and clear the whole thing.
Any words of wisdom or links, or products to check out would be killer.

Thanks!

 

[Alfang]

A lot of people here use Deft, some of us, me included, have used Dupli-Color,  Both of these spray on nice and thin, resist running ( to a point of course) dry quick, sand and buff easy.  I am not as sold on re-ranch as others, mostly because it's like 15 bucks a can and in my opinion no better than the above mentioned brands.

I've had yellowing in the past, I think it was before i discovered deft and dupil-color.  But I believe the yellow was because I shot clear too early between coats it was a hummid day and I put too much on too quick, That's what I think, not what I know.

I think the color coats were outgassing into my clearcoat, =CB= Tonar or others might have an opinion on the yellowing, but I don't think it was from a bad brand or mixing different brands as they were all laquers.

The thing to do is look up some or all of Tonars finishing pages, wanna be succesfull? do what succesfull people do.

 

[RU36]

A lot of people here use Deft, some of us, me included, have used Dupli-Color,  Both of these spray on nice and thin, resist running ( to a point of course) dry quick, sand and buff easy.  I am not as sold on re-ranch as others, mostly because it's like 15 bucks a can and in my opinion no better than the above mentioned brands.

I've had yellowing in the past, I think it was before i discovered deft and dupil-color.  But I believe the yellow was because I shot clear too early between coats it was a hummid day and I put too much on too quick, That's what I think, not what I know.

I think the color coats were outgassing into my clearcoat, =CB= Tonar or others might have an opinion on the yellowing, but I don't think it was from a bad brand or mixing different brands as they were all laquers.

The thing to do is look up some or all of Tonars finishing pages, wanna be succesfull? do what succesfull people do.

Thanks for the input.
I am happy with the deft as far as the results and the lack of yellowing.

 

[RU36]

I went down to wood craft and picked up a few small bottles of MIXOL brand wood dye, some lacquer thinner, and some pieces of Curly maple (they were out of quilted maple)

I brought it home and did some tests and the dye part of the job seems to be pretty easy.

I diluted some black dye in the thinner and wiped it on which raised the grain a little.
then I sanded it back and and added green and yellow to get a lime green.
It looks cool but I dont know if its the right color for me.
I am thinking about trying purple or red next.

 

[-CB-]

1. people pay good money for white that turns yellow... arrrgh

2. the clear was probably slightly tinted - many wood finishes are

3.  I like Deft, and use it for Satin or Semi-Gloss.  The gloss is ok, very very good, but I like Cabot from a can better for full gloss.

4.  Duplicolor is also very good!

5.  Spray-Max2k PU is a great no-mix poly finish if thats what you want.  Its dry in an hour, can sand and recoat in that amount of time.  If you want a fast finish to apply  this stuff is good - but - you need protective gear.  Read that you NEED protective gear.  Its an industrial product and comes with industrial cautions.  You'll need latex gloves, long sleeve t-shirt, organic respirator or forced air respiration.  The 3m breather is ok with it for short term outdoor use - about $35.

 

[RU36]

1. people pay good money for white that turns yellow... arrrgh

2. the clear was probably slightly tinted - many wood finishes are

3.  I like Deft, and use it for Satin or Semi-Gloss.  The gloss is ok, very very good, but I like Cabot from a can better for full gloss.

4.  Duplicolor is also very good!

5.  Spray-Max2k PU is a great no-mix poly finish if thats what you want.  Its dry in an hour, can sand and recoat in that amount of time.  If you want a fast finish to apply  this stuff is good - but - you need protective gear.  Read that you NEED protective gear.  Its an industrial product and comes with industrial cautions.  You'll need latex gloves, long sleeve t-shirt, organic respirator or forced air respiration.  The 3m breather is ok with it for short term outdoor use - about $35.

Is the Cabot brand non-yellowing like the deft?

 

[-CB-]

as far as I cant tell it is..

all lacquer yellows, depending on the UV rays it gets.  some lacquer have UV blockers to "resist" yellowing (Deft, Cabot...) but none are totally yellow "proof"

 

[RU36]

Thanks =CB=
I have used your advice on several parts of my last build and you have proven to be a solid source of good info.  :icon_thumright: