Some beginner questions

[ljubljana]

Some background- I've been planning on getting a new guitar for a while, so I've been renting some of the "standards" to try to get a feel for what I want.  I loved a black Les Paul studio (I'm looking for the slow Buckethead tone), and was about to pull the trigger when my dad pointed out this site.  I'm ecstatic about building a guitar, but I've never so much as changed a pickup, so I need some very basic help.  I'm an engineering student and love tinkering (primarily computers), so soldering, etc, is no problem, but have no knowledge about guitar hardware so I was hoping to get some advice to try to avoid stupid mistakes.  

Now, the questions-
1) It seems like the standard on this site is 25.5 scale, but I want to go with 24 3/4.  Is the LP body scaled up to fit the longer (default) neck, or is it the same size as the Gibson body?
2) I want to do the standard Les Paul wiring.  Is this a good schematic to follow? http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w_phase
Also, what does it mean by "Phase Switch"?
3) When attaching the neck, is any glue used, or just screws?
4) What kind of jack should I get, mono or stereo?
5) Are holes for attaching the strap holders already drilled?  
6) The neck builder says that you can get the neck finished the same as the guitar, but I don't see any option to do that.  How do I flag that I want that done?
7) What is the coaxial wire in the wiring kit for?
8) I don't have any spare parts, so I need to get everything that I would need for the build. Here's my planned purchase- am I missing anything other then pickups and the jack?  Also, any comments or critiques on my choices would be greatly appreciated.

Model: Carved Top Standard LP
Orientation: Right handed
Wood: DL Quilt Maple on Mahogany
Pickup Rout: Humbucker (Neck), None (Middle), Humbucker (Brdg)
Controls: Volume 1 (LP), Volume 2 (LP), Tone 1 (LP), Tone 2 (LP), Upper Toggle Hole (LP)
Bridge: TOM/STP, Ang Pock
Top Finish: Green Dye
Back Finish: Black Gloss
Jack Rout: 7/8" Side
Binding: White Binding
Neck Pocket: Strat® Shape
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Countours: Contoured Heel
Stud Install: Use inserts from bridge on order

Style: LP
Construction: Conversion Angled 24 3/4"
Neck Wood: Mahogany
Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood
Orientation: Right Handed
Nut Width: 1 11/16"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: SS6230 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Gotoh/Grover (13/32", 11/32")
Inlays: Pearloid Sharkfin
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech TUSQ
Finish:
Radius: Straight 11"
Scale: 24-3/4 in. Conversion
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt

4x knobs
4x 500K Audio Taper Pot
3x Gotoh SG38 Tuner, Left, Chrome
3x Gotoh SG38 Tuner, Right, Chrome
2x .047 caps
2x Humbucker Mounting Rings
Gotoh Stop Tail Piece
Gotoh Tune O Matic Bridge
3-way switch
Wiring Kit

Thanks for your time and any help you can provide,
Graham

 

[BobR55]

Hi, Graham, and welcome.
It looks like you are well on your way. Your preparation will make things a lot easier.

Now, the questions-
1) It seems like the standard on this site is 25.5 scale, but I want to go with 24 3/4.  Is the LP body scaled up to fit the longer (default) neck, or is it the same size as the Gibson body? It is roughly the authentic size. I don't believe it has been scaled up.
2) I want to do the standard Les Paul wiring.  Is this a good schematic to follow? http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w_phase Yes, that's a fine diagram, if you want a phase switch. It is not necessary nor standard on LPs.
Also, what does it mean by "Phase Switch"? It reverses the phase of one of the pickups and gives you a 'notch' filter ('honky') tone effect.
3) When attaching the neck, is any glue used, or just screws? Just screws.
4) What kind of jack should I get, mono or stereo? If you are running only your pickups (and no active circuitry or piezo acoustic pickup) you need only run mono.
5) Are holes for attaching the strap holders already drilled?  No, nor are holes for tuner set screws, humbucking mounting rings, jack plate screws.
6) The neck builder says that you can get the neck finished the same as the guitar, but I don't see any option to do that.  How do I flag that I want that done? It would be better for you to place your order by phone or email sales@warmoth.com for this custom finish. The Online Configurator is simplified a bit to avoid pitfalls and incompatibilities.
7) What is the coaxial wire in the wiring kit for? For extra quiet operation. When properly grounded it can reject radio frequency interference from motors, neon/flourescent lights, etc.

And you might want to check out the In Stock Showcase area to see if your body may have already been built ( and marked down!).
Rock on!!

 

[GoDrex]

1. The body is made for 25.5 scale. You can get a conversion neck that will make the guitar 24.75 scale. I personally don't believe it is exactly the same as a guitar made to be 24.75 scale. The pick ups are in the wrong spot in relation to the bridge.

2. That schematic is OK - it has a phase switch (a push pull or push push pot) that makes the bridge and neck pickups go out of phase with each other when it's activated. You may or may not want this. It's not standard. It's a different tone option that some people like. Look at my thread in the LP forum (Custom GD Gold Top) for sound clips of out of phase sounds. Anyway there are other diagrams of more standard wiring

3. No glue ever to attach bolt on necks.

4. mono jack I would say

5. Nope. You also have to drill holes for the pickup rings, jack plate and truss rod cover and control plates - and sometimes for tuner guide holes if needed.

6. not sure - if you can't find it, best to contact Warmoth directly. They'll help you out.

7. Not sure -  - probably from the pots to the output jack

I personally wouldn't get black gloss. I'd get trans-brown on the back cause it looks better, lets some wood grain through. I'd finish the backof the neck the same way - -but that's me. Unless it's a showcase piece, then never mind. I wouldn't do sharkfin either because it makes me think of Jackson guitars... but to each his own.

 

[Nando Vallart]

Welcome to the forum!!!

1) It seems like the standard on this site is 25.5 scale, but I want to go with 24 3/4.  Is the LP body scaled up to fit the longer (default) neck, or is it the same size as the Gibson body?

The body in deed I believe is the same size, perhaps the bridge location is a little different, but with a Warmoth 24 3/4" conversion neck it will work lovely... Never heard somebody complain...

3) When attaching the neck, is any glue used, or just screws?
JUST screws with the neckplate, just like a strat.

4) What kind of jack should I get, mono or stereo?
Which pickups are you using?

5) Are holes for attaching the strap holders already drilled?
No... You'll have to it yourself.

6) The neck builder says that you can get the neck finished the same as the guitar, but I don't see any option to do that.  How do I flag that I want that done?
How do you want it finished? Warmoth says it because if you order a guitar body and neck in differente times, could be small diferences in color, IF they are finished in the same way... I'm understanding that you'll want a LP with the headstock finished in Black, just like Gibson, then this wouldn't make difference for you...

8 ) I don't have any spare parts, so I need to get everything that I would need for the build. Here's my planned purchase- am I missing anything other then pickups and the jack?  Also, any comments or critiques on my choices would be greatly appreciated.
I think you just need to specify the finish you want on the neck... Think it's black, right? to match the back of the body and the headstock matching gibson original look?
personally I would go for vintage tuners:

http://www.guitarpartsresource.com/tuners_lockinggotoh.htm

Also I would go with trapezoid inlay instead of the sharkfin...

But it's personal preference.....

 

[Nando Vallart]

Ahh! I always think that LP has to have thick necks... At least a '59 roundback, but a Boatneck would be the best

 

[jlegnor]

You forgot Neck screws in your list.  Make sure to get the 2+2 screws for the contoured heel.  It has the 2 shorter screws so that you don't go through the fingerboard.

 

[ljubljana]

Wow, I wasn't expecting such a quick response-  Thanks!

7) What is the coaxial wire in the wiring kit for? For extra quiet operation. When properly grounded it can reject radio frequency interference from motors, neon/flourescent lights, etc.

Does that mean that I should use it for all wiring, or just specific connections?  If so, which?

2. That schematic is OK - it has a phase switch (a push pull or push push pot) that makes the bridge and neck pickups go out of phase with each other when it's activated. You may or may not want this. It's not standard. It's a different tone option that some people like. Look at my thread in the LP forum (Custom GD Gold Top) for sound clips of out of phase sounds. Anyway there are other diagrams of more standard wiring

Makes sense, this is what I was looking for- http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_2t_3w

Also I would go with trapezoid inlay instead of the sharkfin...

This seems to be the general consensus, so I think I'll change it.

I personally wouldn't get black gloss. I'd get trans-brown on the back cause it looks better, lets some wood grain through

I really like the look of the green LP by Clive Whitwood in http://www.warmoth.com/Pages/Gallery.aspx?type=LP_GUITAR (it's towards the end).  Is that what the black gloss would look like?

5. Nope. You also have to drill holes for the pickup rings, jack plate and truss rod cover and control plates - and sometimes for tuner guide holes if needed.

Does the neck not come with a truss rod cover?  If not, does Warmoth sell them? (I cant find them under hardware)

You forgot Neck screws in your list.  Make sure to get the 2+2 screws for the contoured heel.  It has the 2 shorter screws so that you don't go through the fingerboard.

That would have been a terrible one to forget... my dream guitar without a neck 
Going through the hardware section, it looks like I forgot humbucker height adjustment screws, humbucker mounting rings and bridge screws as well.  Anything else?

Thanks again,
Graham

 

[GoDrex]

5. Nope. You also have to drill holes for the pickup rings, jack plate and truss rod cover and control plates - and sometimes for tuner guide holes if needed.

Does the neck not come with a truss rod cover?  If not, does Warmoth sell them? (I cant find them under hardware)

it does come with one but holes are not drilled for it by Warmoth.

 

[dbw]

It comes with one but it's ugly as sin.  Get a nicer one.

 

[ljubljana]

It comes with one but it's ugly as sin.  Get a nicer one.

Does Warmoth sell nicer ones, or should I look for somewhere else?

I have a few more questions:
9) What general order should I build the guitar?  I was thinking solder as much of the wiring as possible while outside of the guitar; install and finish soldering the electronics inside the guitar; put the neck on the body; install the bridge, tuners,etc.
10) How do I set up the truss rod?  I know that a 1/4 turn too far can cause an explosion that can level a 5 block radius (or something like that  :icon_biggrin: ).  To hazard a guess, do you put a pair of strings on (ie the high and low E's, to avoid shear) and slowly tighten them while adjusting the truss to balance out the strain, then do the same with the next two pairs of strings?

Thanks for your patience,
Graham

 

[tfarny]

Good questions, sounds like you'll build a good one your first time out.
custominlay.com for nice, really nice, truss rod covers. Check out the MOP turtle inlaid ones - nice for the Warmoth brand thing.
9) that sounds like a good plan.
10) The truss rod adjustment isn't nearly as tough or as dangerous as you're thinking. Your ultimate goal is a straight-to-just slighty-inward bowed (towards you while playing) neck (so that the low E string is about .010 higher, max, than the top of the 9th fret while holding down the string at the 1st and 22nd frets).

This is the best advice you're going to get: Go buy Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide" from Amazon right now, and read it cover to cover. Consider it the best money you'll spend on assembling the guitar.

 

[Mor Paul]

(so that the low E string is about .010 higher, max, than the top of the 9th fret while holding down the string at the 1st and 22nd frets).

Got it, Tim.

 

[big bob]

Good questions, sounds like you'll build a good one your first time out.
custominlay.com for nice, really nice, truss rod covers. Check out the MOP turtle inlaid ones - nice for the Warmoth brand thing.
9) that sounds like a good plan.
10) The truss rod adjustment isn't nearly as tough or as dangerous as you're thinking. Your ultimate goal is a straight-to-just slighty-inward bowed (towards you while playing) neck (so that the low E string is about .010 higher, max, than the top of the 9th fret while holding down the string at the 1st and 22nd frets).

This is the best advice you're going to get: Go buy Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide" from Amazon right now, and read it cover to cover. Consider it the best money you'll spend on assembling the guitar.

+1 I love that book, reference it all the time.

 

[Mor Paul]

I came home today, and the book was on my couch. My mom got it from goodwill. She had no idea I wanted it!
I'll be reading it

 

[ljubljana]

This is the best advice you're going to get: Go buy Dan Erlewine's "Guitar Player Repair Guide" from Amazon right now, and read it cover to cover. Consider it the best money you'll spend on assembling the guitar.

Perfect, I have it on order.  Thanks!

Here's a bit more of a subjective question- how does mahogany look with transparent green finish?  I was thinking it might look good with green dye on the top and transparent green on the back and neck, but I'm worried that the red wood might make it turn brown.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I came home today, and the book was on my couch. My mom got it from goodwill. She had no idea I wanted it!
I'll be reading it

When I was your age, any mention of one's mother purchasing anything from a Goodwill was social suicide.  I have done a 180 in my old age and see the frugality in it and am hopeful that pettiness died with my generation.  Good for you Max. 

 

[Mor Paul]

Hey, I get a lot of records from goodwill. It's not a bad place to go. The book has some coffee sticking the pages together, but otherwise, it seems great.

 

[jackthehack]

My 1980 Fender 75 was found in a thrift store (DAV), for $30.

 

[blue313]

I came home today, and the book was on my couch. My mom got it from goodwill. She had no idea I wanted it!
I'll be reading it

It might be worth your while to go back to that goodwill.  The person who owned that book originally may have dropped off some other goodness.

 

[Mor Paul]

There is a dictionary of rock stuff, reviews and all. I'll see if I can go back.
Now, I went Wednesday, and my mom got this Friday. It could have been there, and I didn't see anything obvious that interested me.