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Soldering to a nickel (I think) bridge?

DarkPenguin

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I need to attach my ground wire to a fender 62 reissue bridge.  This thing appears to be nickel.  My solder doesn't seem to want to stick to it.  How do I do this?
 
Is this a vibrato bridge? If so, it's much easier to attach the ground wire to the spring claw. But, even there, you'll need a decent soldering iron (40W+), as the claw wants to act as a heat sink. This causes the solder to cool too quickly and it simply balls up and rolls off. I like to drill & tap a 6-32 hole in the claw, then crimp a lug on the ground wire and screw the thing on.

If it's a hardtail, there should be a hole drilled between the bridge mounting area and the control cavity. You bring the ground wire up, strip an inch or so back, and simply place it under the bridge as you screw it down.
 
Solder does not stick to bridges. That's why you never see bridges grounded that way.

 
line6man said:
Solder does not stick to bridges. That's why you never see bridges grounded that way.

Vintage Allen Bradley pots do the same, the case material is so thick on them.



Cagey said:
If it's a hardtail, there should be a hole drilled between the bridge mounting area and the control cavity. You bring the ground wire up, strip an inch or so back, and simply place it under the bridge as you screw it down.

Easy peasy.....
 
That might work. But, if you have a pointed tip and/or a 25W-30W iron, you may as well bark at the moon. It'll never get hot enough.
 
You could drill a hole through the claw, use an eyelet on the wire, and attach mechanically with a screw.
 
Springs installed will pull heat as well. -Unhook the springs if they're on there, that may help.
 
DarkPenguin said:
I'm attaching it to the claw.  I'll try heating the claw longer than I have been.

You really need as mentioned earlier an iron of at least 40 watts, any less it just won't work even if held for longer. You might get a dry joint at best but it will just fall off.  Scratch the surface also to give a key to the solder.
 
For next time, the eyelet on the ground wire idea can be taken a step further: instead of drilling a hole in the claw, use an eyelet that will fit around the claw mounting screw and just let the head of one of the mounting screws pinch it against the claw.  :sign13:
 
Day-mun said:
For next time, the eyelet on the ground wire idea can be taken a step further: instead of drilling a hole in the claw, use an eyelet that will fit around the claw mounting screw and just let the head of one of the mounting screws pinch it against the claw.  :sign13:


What do you have against swearing at your handiwork?  Commie.


Srsly, good thinking.
 
It's a good thing my instruments aren't conscious beings; they'd all need therapy to treat low self-esteem issues from all the cussing I've hurled their way!  :laughing7:
 
Take the claw out of the guitar, then suspend it in a hot gas flame. When it gets really hot you can tin an area of it by just pressing some solder on to it. After it's tinned, it's very easy to solder to.
 
Flame-Pack-Featured-930x466.jpg


That oughta fix it!
 
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