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So Many Options!

szabojesse

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Hello everyone! I am going to be a first time customer very soon but was overwhelmed with the different kinds of fret wire, neck shape, wood type options there are. Does anyone have a link that could help explain some of the qualities that are offered?

For those that are interested, here is my setup and what I'm trying to achieve.
I have a '62 reissue tele with Rio Grande Tall Boy and Muy Grande. Current neck is rosewood. The pickups are a little dark but I think some different tone woods would bring out their true potential. I play country/rock so I still want some heaviness but need some snap. I don't like super thin necks but I'm also not a fan of the fatty gibson esq ones.
The reason I'm replacing the neck (besides the frets being worn down) are that the truss adjustment is at the heel, I hate the vintage style tuners, and it feels a little flat.
 
Welcome to the forum!

The Warmoth site has lots of resources regarding their different options, here are a couple of links to get you started:

Fret wire:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretSizePop.aspx

Neck profiles:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/BackContours.aspx

Neck woods:
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckWoods.aspx

Neck construction (truss rod adjustment location is part of this):
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/NeckConstructions.aspx
 
I second RGand's link to Aaron's videos - I find his videos are well-produced and informative.  Aaron is very aware of what goes on at this site, so he knows to address the sorts of questions that this community has when considering parts/aspects of a build. 

There's a "Polls" section on this website that gives insight in to what some of the favorite option choices are, and why.  It's easier to get a fix on opinions and basis for those opinions with the polls than trying to search around on the site and reading tons of threads - although that can certainly be helpful as well. 

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=5461.0;viewresults

Standard Thin neck is pretty well regarded due to its "Goldilocks" factor - not too big, not too small, but "just right."  Followed by the 59" Roundback, who like the thicker Gibson vibe.  Notable mentions go to the Wizard, which is preferred by the shredders, and the Boat, which is preferred by those who either play a lot of rhythm and barre chords, or other folks with arthritis.  If you scroll through the comments, you'll notice that some folks really like the custom contours, but don't prefer them, because they don't like having to pay extra.

http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=26484.0

Warmoth's compound radius is the big winner here.  The notable outlier is folks who do a lot of lower-neck rhythm but little upper-neck lead playing - the smaller radii are easier on the hands, and they're not soloing up the neck, so they're not concerned with bent notes fretting out. 

There's not a poll on fret size, but my impression of the preference of folks at this site is that medium-jumbo - jumbo is preferred.  Frets that are too small (vintage Fender, to a lesser extent, vintage Gibson) make bending unnecessarily difficult.  While some heavy-handed folks find that they squeeze notes sharp with big frets, many have attested that, while they were at first uncomfortable with bigger frets - once they found how much easier bends/vibrato are, and getting accustomed to the lighter touch required to not squeeze notes sharp - won't go back to small frets.

I don't want to overgeneralize and speak too much on the behalf of others, but an opinion often shared here re. woods and tone is that pickups and electronics contribute the vast majority of what constitutes "tone," and it's better to pick wood choices based on aesthetics or other characteristics (such as weight).  IMO, someone playing a Tele in a country/rock style probably shouldn't be concerned about tonal differences between a rosewood fingerboard on a maple neck versus a maple fingerboard on a maple neck.  Rather, what would look better with the guitar's paint job?

I've only ordered one neck myself, and was in the same option-overload boat as you.  Getting a rough idea of your general likes/dislikes, and comparing it with what Warmoth offers, will serve you well. 

Going by what you told us about playing "country/rock so I still want some heaviness but need some snap. I don't like super thin necks but I'm also not a fan of the fatty gibson esq ones..." it sounds like my tastes align pretty well with yours on that point, and Warmoth's Standard Thin profile is probably your best bet (it's the only Warmoth neck I have so far).  If you want thicker than super-thin (Wizard) and thinner than Gibson ('59 Roundback), the only candidate is the Standard Thin, unless you might be interested in more of a V-shape (Clapton) or an asymmetrical shape (Wolfgang, SRV).  From my experience, it's not really "thin-thin", just thinner than everything else besides the Wizard neck.  It's thicker than necks of other guitars I've had that are considered some sort of "modern thin" profile (in particular, my Godin Freeway Classic, which is one of the favorite necks I've played), but not thick in a Gibson-ish way.  Goldilocks...a most delicious porridge.   

You also mentioned that "The reason I'm replacing the neck (besides the frets being worn down) are that the truss adjustment is at the heel, I hate the vintage style tuners, and it feels a little flat.  Considering that, here are couple of thoughts:

- Warmoth's Modern Construction is a double-truss-rod design that has heel adjust at the neck, but also a side-adjust mechanism on the high-E side of the neck.  This allows minor adjustments to be without replacing the neck.  Vintage-Modern construction is a single-trussrod design has the truss-rod adjustment at the headstock.  Some folks swear by the stability of Warmoth's modern construction necks (especially when maple, in particular, roasted maple is used), and find the side-adjust sufficient for any necessary tweaks.  Others just don't like the side-adjust, and wish Warmoth would offer modern-construction with headstock truss-rod adjustment.   

- I'm not sure what you mean by "it feels a bit flat."  Some folks find that dual-trussrod construction causes a neck to be too stable, have too much mass - and because of that, feels less response.  I would expect a ' 62 Reissue to have a single-trussrod neck (but I could be wrong), so I'm not sure if that would be a factor here.  Could you explain a little bit more about what you mean by it "feeling flat"?  Maybe comparing it with another guitar or neck you played would give folks a better idea about what you're looking for.

I'm a little surprised you find those pickups dark, considering how they're categorized at the Rio Grande website (https://www.riograndepickups.com/for-telecasters).  Usually, pickups described as being lower-powered/vintage-voiced are brighter then higher-powered/modern voiced.  Which one is the bridge, and which is the neck (Tall Boy, Muy Grande)?  Also, any details on pot and cap values?  Sometimes tweeking some of those components can brighten (or otherwise alter) a guitar's sounds considerably, and at minimal cost.     

It seems to me that at this site, compared to other guitar sites, opinions are more heavily-weighted by direct experience, rather than...some personal need to have a strong opinion about something that might seem incontestable.  So someone might post, "I've had Warmoth necks in Standard Thin, EVH and Boat, and although I liked the speediness of the first two, in my current cover band I'm mostly playing rhythm, and the chunkier Boat profile is easier on my arthritic wrists."  As opposed to:  "The Boatneck is the best profile, because more wood = better tone."  That's why I love this place!  :yourock:  I'm sure you'll it a good resource for all your questions, as well as learning about stuff you never even realized you might have questions about!
 
I had a long treatise on this written up, and tossed it. You probably wouldn't have been any farther ahead. Instead, I'm just gonna tell you what to do.

Buy a "standard thin" roasted Maple neck with a compound radius Ebony fretboard on it and a 1 11/16" nut width, and have them put some mungo stainless frets on it. 6150s or 6100s. No finish, burnish it. Get it professionally set up. If that doesn't do what you want, keep the neck, throw the rest of the guitar in the fireplace and start over.

That is all  :laughing7:
 
Hey Jesse,

I'm a tele player with, er, 6 warmoth telecasters.  My thing is more Roots/Americana, but I think I know what you mean about "too dark" and "needs more snap".  Here's my comments.  Take them for what they are worth considering I'm just some guy on the internet with an opinion:

1 - neck size and shape:  If you like how your neck feels now, get some calipers, or a buddy with calipers, and measure the heck out of it.  Measure the width at the nut, depth at the 1st and 12'th fret, measure the fret width and height.  Then use that as your specs for your new neck.

2 - Do your hands sweat a lot?  If not - Get roasted maple.  May as well make it maple/maple assuming that would look ok on the guitar.  I've got two roasted maple necks now and they are the cats ass.  If you do sweat a lot, get a finish on it or you will gum it up.  If you like that 'vintage' vibe, then regular maple with a vintage tint lacquer would be fine.

3 - stainless steel frets are a great upgrade.  I highly recommend them.

4 - Go with a modern construction or vintage modern construction neck.  To my ears, the modern construction has more 'zing' to it.  I personally like the side adjust, but many don't.  YYMV.

5 - locking tuners with staggered posts are another great upgrade.  I personally like gotoh, but I've also had schaller and HipShot and been very happy.

6 - regarding your dark tone, I'm sorry to say that unless it's really subtle, a different neck is not going to really help you.  You're going to have to look at pickups or wiring.  BTW, I've been slowly changing the tone cap on my teles from 0.47uf to 0.22uf for more snap.  There are a zillion pickups out there.  I don't feel qualified to hazard an opinion on them but I will say that I've been very happy with Lollar.
 
Cagey said:
Buy a "standard thin" roasted Maple neck with a compound radius Ebony fretboard on it and a 1 11/16" nut width, and have them put some mungo stainless frets on it. 6150s or 6100s. No finish, burnish it. Get it professionally set up. If that doesn't do what you want, keep the neck, throw the rest of the guitar in the fireplace and start over.
I have two modern construction roasted maple necks pretty much like this except no burnishing to speak of (one done to 400 grit only the other straight out of the box). One is a 25.5" scale and the other a 24.75" scale conversion. Staggered locking tuners on both.

Mayfly said:
... and they are the cats ass. ...
I heartily agree.

My hands don't sweat a lot so they're unfinished.

A quick note about the modern construction. After the initial setup, I haven't had to adjust them at all. One is three years old and the other about a year and a half.
 
Welcome to the forum. I see some of the very experienced members have weighed in. I can only add a bit.  I almost went with Rio Grande pickups in my first parts guitar until I kept hearing from a number of people that the Rio Grandes come across as a bit dark in everything. Clearly they have their followers but in the end you might end up changing pickups.

As for necks, I have roasted maple (neck and fretboard) on my tele and am very happy with the sound and feel. Do remember that roasted maple require just a little more carefulness in drilling for tuners as its a little less forgiving than regular maple and you don't want any surprise splitting. But I am very happy with it and when I pick up my tele it is to play some old country songs and also to have the flexibility to play punchier stuff if I want. If you know you are an ebony fretboard guy then you know the slightly added attack works for you. If you have always used full maple then I would suggest sticking with that. Just food for thought.

Fret wise, if you have a brick and mortar store in your area that carries any Nash guitars he always uses 6105 frets, which are a good general purpose fret that isn't too big or too small. I started with 6150 (which is wider and is fine with me) but have settled into always ordering 6105. I like to touch the fretboard a little bit and can do so or not with 6105 and remain intonated. Stainless steel is indeed a great choice but I have both stainless and nickel 6105 frets in my collection.

Also relating to Nash, he has two neck sizes. A medium C which I think is a little more so than the Warmoth Standard Thin but not more so than the '59 profile. I have mostly larger necks but have recently rediscovered the standard thin and enjoy it on the neck I recently bought from the Warmoth showcase for a guitar. But I would make a trip to a nearby store and try some necks to get an idea .

Good luck with your project and post your thoughts on how it all goes.
 
I would second Mayfly's suggestion of measuring what you have. Or try out a few guitars and find which you like and check the specs, that should help in your quest.
 
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