Sienna bur... oh, Tequila Sunr... oh, Cherry burst, I guess. Fun with aerosols!

Ace Flibble

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Had this Warmoth body sat around for a while now, doing nothing. Got this as part of the first batch of carved Teles with LP controls that Warmoth put up in the showcase, however many years ago that was now.

This body has seen quite a bit of action: pop-goth (yes, that's a thing) with a white pearl finish by Warmoth, a purpleheart & ebony neck, purple DiMarzio pickups, black hardware, and tuned to Drop C#; an alternative metal monster, stripped to the bare alder, tuned DADDAD, with a flame maple & ebony neck, and the world's first pair of white EMG 60A4-X pickups; and now it's going to have a life as a heavy blues stalwart, with a one-piece rosewood neck, overwound Gibson pickups, and a light finish between an aged Sienna burst and a weak honey burst.

Thing is, I'm too lazy to do this finish properly. For another person's guitar, I get out the compressor and paint things right. I mix the paint myself and use the airbrush, even for large areas of solid colur.

But for my own guitars, especially one which I've already remade many times over, I just buy a couple of aerosol cans of nitro and get to work ASAP. And it's not like a Sienna-honey burst will be hard to do with cans, right? It's only a mixture of orange and brown, with a very slight hint of amber in the middle. It's an easy, light, classic burst. What could go wrong?

Well, it turns out that trusting to a manufacturer's examples instead of mixing the paint myself was a bit of a mistake...

MfwhtMS.jpg

(The bridge bushings are in there because they are fitted so tight, I've never been able to get them out. Not with screws, not with heat, not with brute force. Warmoth put them in there real tight. I'm happy to spray over them, anyway. Gibson install their bushings before spraying the clear coat!)

First pass. 'Light orange', this is not. I don't think I want to risk spraying the 'medium brown' over this if this is what they call 'light'. I highly suspect 'medium brown' to mean 'solid black'.

Okay, so I guess the sienna-honey mix is out the window. I could sand it back and try again, but I can't be bothered. So it'll be a Tequila Sunrise burst instead!

8JBedGh.jpg


... Well that second pass really darkened it a lot. I suppose it'll be a cherry burst after all!

Next step will be to sand back the middle just a little bit, because that burst really has gone too thick now, and then I'll spray on the 'pale amber'. Hopefully that is a less intense colour, as it's supposed to be. If it comes on too strong, I'll hit the entire surface evenly with 1000 and 1500 grit paper. I just get bored with sanding, so I'll be avoiding re-sanding if I can; this experiment is more just for a laugh than to create a serious, main instrument.

Goes to show how much sloppier and how much more power you get out of an aerosol compared to the fine control of the airbrush that I usually use for clients. I will say I am impressed with the consistency of the spray, at least. (The dark spots are knots in the wood, not paint; Warmoth sold this with a solid finish, so I was not surprised when I saw knots when I originally stripped it.)


The rest of the build should be as follows:
  • Solid alder body, usual Warmoth carved Tele drilled for LP controls
  • One-piece rosewood neck, 21 frets, 24.75" conversion scale, Jazzmaster headstock. (non-Warmoth) Like the body, I've had this sat around for a while, paired it up with many bodies. It's my favourite neck and I've just never found a body that does it justice.
  • Gibson Burstbucker #3 pickup for the neck. This is usually a bridge model, ~9k, but I like very hot neck pickups so I can keep them further from the strings and still have strong enough output to push the amp into natural overdrive without a high preamp gain setting. I often use 'bridge' pickups in the neck. I love the look with the screw coils toward the bridge, too.
  • Gibson 500T for the bridge. This is a very hot pickup with three ceramic magnets and a thick tone, but when you put it further from the strings it reduces down to a 'super-PAF' kind of tone. (Similar to the Seymour Duncan Custom.) If it works out too bright, I've got A8, A5 or A4 magnets on standby which I can swap in for the main ceramic magnet to reduce the treble. Never needed to change magnets before, but every other guitar I've put 500Ts in has had a mahogany body and set neck, so we'll see how it goes with alder and a bolt-on.
  • CTS 300k linear pots for the pickup volume controls. Bourns 500k audio taper for a master volume control instead of the neck tone. Bridge tone pot will be a phase reversal push-pull switch and not operate as a tone pot. I can't stand tone pots. The pickups' individual volume controls are linear taper to provide accurate balancing for the out-of-phase middle tone, with the master volume providing the actual volume control. CTS make the most accurate linear pots with a stiff feel for accuracy and Bourns make the best-tapered log pots with a loose feel for volume swelling. 300k + 500k is the classic combination for humbuckers used in 1950s Les Pauls and archtops. All of my 3- and 4-control guitars are wired this way.
  • I'm going to try to fit a generic LP pickguard to it. The measurements are fine, I'm just not sure if the bracket will quite reach until I actually drill and try to attach it. It's barely long enough by 0.3mm. It's going to be a very tight fit, at best.

The idea is going from Peter Green to Carlos Santana in one sweep of the master volume knob. The 'reversed' neck pickup and out-of-phase tone are signatures of Peter Green, and an all-rosewood neck is something I first heard of when reading up on Carlos Santana's gear. They should combine to be a good mix for a 'heavy blues' guitar... in theory.

All done, it should look a little something like this crap kisekae + photoshop mock-up:

n3mYQqj.jpg


... though that was when I thought 'light' meant 'light' and not 'almost solid'. With how this finish is going, I fully expect it to end up more like this now:

nqWlsqU.jpg


Ah well. We'll see! This is the fun of taking a bunch of random parts, slapping together in your downtime and seeing what the hell you end up with.
 
It may not be what you expected, but it sill looks good. I wouldn't cry too much.
 
Yeah, I'm not bothered by it. Whenever I do one of these builds—throwing together whatever parts happen to be around and hoping for the best—I never really consider 'mistakes' to be mistakes. This isn't something I spent months planning and saving for, like most builds. This is literally "well I've got this body and this neck, and I think I have two suitable pickups somewhere in the parts drawer... let's see what happens!"

Sprayed amber today. One mist coating and one proper coat. Unlike the orange, the 'weak amber' has lived up to its name and has nicely dulled everything, smoothed out the burst and taken the orange down a notch in vividness:

voBjBy0.jpg


Not too far off looking like a classic Gibson burst. I think the middle only needs one more light coat of amber to smooth everything out fully—these aerosols don't exactly have good atomisation—and then I'm debating whether to get a little thinned-down tobacco to spray on the sides and 1cm or so over the edge, to make more of a standard three-colour sunburst. The back of the guitar doesn't have particularly nice grain and a few knots, so getting a darker colour on there and the sides is very tempting. We'll see how I feel in the morning; I've got a lot of work on next week so I'm aiming to have everything done by Sunday!

Also tested the pickups today. I've had these sat in the drawer for a while, surrounded by many random metal parts and other magnets, so I wasn't sure if they'd weakened or not. The magnets seem to be absolutely fine, though, and the coils are measuring correctly so there doesn't seem to be anything to worry about there.

Interestingly, the Burstbucker #3 is meant to have asymmetrical coils, but instead of the usual 5-10% mismatch that you usually get with PAF copies, this one has one coil a full 19% stronger than the other. I've never measured a coil difference this drastic in a Burstbucker before. The stronger coil is  the neck-facing one, so I'm expecting that to warm up the top-end a lot whilst opening the mids.

Also, the 500T, which is meant to have nearly-matched coils, has a 6% discrepancy in favour of the south coil. I've not noticed that with 500Ts before, so this one might be packing a little PAF flavour through the middle, too.

The sounds these make are going to be as much of a surprise as the paint, I think!
 
Looks pretty good from here.


I lack experience with sprayguns, but my experience with rattlecans is that for a decent burst, the cardboard silhouette method helps to keep the width of the burst edge consistent and the vignette at the size and intensity of color that you want.
 
Heh, even when I'm doing a proper job with an airbrush, I've never found using a silhouette or cutout template works very well. Proportions get wonky as you scale it inwards. I just use a straight piece of card to mask, and move it to suit the angle, going by eye. With an airbrush it works well, because of the fine atomisation and the very precise depth control. With cans... eh, it's worked well enough. These cans are turning out more consistent than I expected, even if the actual colour is a little off. Again, I'd never treat a client's guitar like this, but for my own, I'd rather save the time and it's fun to experiment.


Sprayed the back today, just plain orange. I never see the point in bursting the backs of guitars, regardless of whether I'm doing a proper job or a rushed for-fun thing like this; my backs always get the plain solid/outer burst colour, unless a client specifically asks and pays extra to have the back bursted as well.

I stripped this body a couple of years ago, before I really knew how to strip thick poly properly, so some of the sealer was left under the amber nitro I sprayed back then, causing the back to have an uneven colour. This orange, though it's stronger than I imagined, has covered and evened that out very nicely. So, tip for anyone refinishing a Warmoth guitar: unless you're using a very strongly-coloured finish, strip that sealer properly! Warmoth's finishes aren't really as thin as they suggest, at least not as thin as nitro ends up being, so you're going to have to put some elbow grease in (or really leave those chemical strippers on) to shift the base primer and sealer layers.

Th remaining few parts that I didn't already have in my parts drawers have arrived, though the mounting rings are a little off the existing mounting holes.
Tip to all UK builders: axesrus.co.uk's pickup mounting rings are considerably wider than standard humbucker mounting rings. I'd rather not faff with filling & redrilling the existing screw holes, so I'll get a couple of the more expensive WDMusic rings, which I know are a perfect match to the previous Warmoth rings. This will push back the final build completion by a day or two, but I don't mind. I'll still do a dry fit by Sunday, I hope.
 
Nice TelePaul you've got going Ace. Its builds like this that tell me that I should be putting a Tele together. I'll be watching to see how it comes out.
 
Bit slow on updates, as waiting for the mounting rings to arrive meant the build lasted me into a normal working week, and then it got too damp and cold to spray the last few coats of gloss, and then I got ill...

Still, back on the case today.

Dry run with the hardware. The generic pickguard has quite a noticable gap around the neck pickup, but I also know that a Gibson/Epiphone pickguard will be very slightly too small, and require a bit of modification to get on. I'm going to sleep on it and see how I feel in the morning about buggering about with a Gibson pickguard vs living with a millimetre or so gap.

Fcr4ZhL.jpg

(Bit dark and flat 'cause it's completely overcast here.)

Also gave the rosewood neck a proper conditioning, after being sat collecting dust for so long. It's raw, of course, but glossy-smooth and with quite a shine on it, now it's back to full health.

Xxr1d2z.jpg
 
After more work and illness hold-ups, back on it.

Decided to back off the pickguard with gaps, and am waiting to source an Epiphone pickguard in cream. (For some reason, the only cream-coloured Gibson or Epiphone pickguards available around here are the Custom Shop VOS ones, which cost as much as a pickup!) As much as I'd like to be able to just whack a guard on and call this done, I know having the gaps will bother me.

For now, though, since the pickguard doesn't interfere with the fit of anything else, I've got it all strung up and working.

vX5NSTv.jpg

(Excuse the mixed lightning and spare room bedspread; England isn't too sunny this time of year.)

Ended up opting to leave the finish as a smooth satin. This aerosol nitro is a bit tougher than the stuff I usually shoot with the airbrush, but it's also no thicker, so there's a real danger of struggling for ages to get it glossy and then very quickly going too far and going right through the colour. 2000 wet&dry and a little burnishing cream has got it to a very comfortable satin, and I'm happy to leave it there. To get this fully glossy would require at least two more cans, I think, as well as a much more extreme sanding regime than I usually do. For a satin finish this has worked just fine, but the airbrush is most definitely still the king of gloss finishes.

Initial observations:
- As far as the bridge pickup is concerned, this may as well be a Les Paul. Whatever brightness the alder body and bolt-on construction may bring, either it's being cancelled out by the rosewood, or the 500T just doesn't care.
- The BurstBucker #3 absolutely does care about the construction, as it's got a much clearer sound than you get out of one of these in an LP.
- Out of phase sounds are being a bit of a mixed bag, as the pickups are so violently different. There's more range to it than any out-of-phase guitar I've done before, but it's also much more twitchy with the controls. Will have to continue experimenting with pickup heights to get the balance more even.
- This is probably the most comfortable guitar I have now, and certainly the second-best playing. Warmoth really got the carved Tele body right, and Musikraft's necks are only beaten by fully PLEK'd Gibsons and PRSs.

It's tempting to call this finished, but I really want to get the pickguard right, so it'll have to be paused at 95% done for now.
 
That is really, really beautiful.

Very interesting reading about your pickup observations.

 
looks great. The pickguard you had before had a slight gap around the neck pickup. Why don't you just relieve it around the bridge pickup so they look the same? It would be a fine addition, then.
 
I think having any gap will bother me, even or otherwise :laughing7: Especially since I know a Gibson/Epiphone guard will fit perfectly with minimal sanding along one small part of one edge. I'm going to give it another week of searching and if I've still not found a cream Epi guard by then, I'll send one of my existing Epi pickguards to be copied in cream.
 
That finish looks great - especially since you kept it satin.
Also, I think it looks great without a pickguard!
 
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