Shielding a Tele for extreme quietness.

[rolloman]

This is how I shield a tele. Extremely quiet.

http://s762.photobucket.com/user/jimgmaher/library/BRADS%20BUTTERSCOTCH%20BLONDE%20TELECASTER/Tele%20Shielding?sort=6&page=1

No gnd wire from bridge, relies on the copper shield. No gnd wires to connect the pots and switch together, relies on the control plate. This way you do not create ground loops. Hole between the bridge pickup cavity and control cavity gets sheilded. Create a tunnel between the neck pickup cavity and control cavity and shield it. Output jack tunnel to control cavity gets shielded.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Looks nice & clean!

 

[Day-mun]

That is definitely a labor-of-love! -Ranks up there with soldering guitar strings where they twist-tie around and onto the ball-end to keep 'em even more pitch-perfect.

-Lookin' good, brother!

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Very nicely done.

I have a few questions.
1.) The 3rd lead on the neck pickup, I assume that's a ground for the cover.  Is there any incidental contact with shielded areas?
2.) Where do the shields pick up the ground from the jack.  The install of the electro socket?
3.) The copper "tube" going from control cavity to bridge pickup cavity, is the contact substantial?  How do they electrically attach?
4.) Where the continuity tests satisfactory?

 

[rolloman]

1) Yes that is the ground for the pickup cover. It has to be done like that so that I could dog a 4 way switch wiring. Here is the link that explains that. http://www.lollarguitars.com/blog/2013/07/lollar-pickups-primer-the-3-wire-tele-modification/
Also there is 1/8" clearance between the shield on the bottom of the pickguard and the pickup cover. And the height adjustment screws are isolated too.

2) Yes. I started to do that but was worried about getting a good connection. That would work though if you could get a good connection with the electrosocket to copper. I do it like that on my strats because I can guarantee myself a good connection because the downward pressure from the output jack platte to the copper cavity shielding via the two mounting screws. I also use a copper tube between the output jack cavity and control cavity. What I actually did after these pictures were take was to still use the shielding tape in the round output jack hole and left a little tab on it that I used to solder it to the control cavity copper. Then I used a braided cable connecting the braid for gnd to the jack. I then put heat shrink along the whole length of the braided cable to insulate it from the shield. So really I end up with double shielding of the output wire. If I was not doing a 4 way switch I would probably still leave a little clearance and let the gnd wire make the connection to the cover like normal.

3) I solder the tube at both to the copper in the cavities. I do not have a wire to the bridge plate because it sits on the shielding with plenty of pressure. For assurance I flow a thin layer of solder on an area of the shield here.

4) Continuity tests were the same as putting the 2 meter leads together. I tested from every point to point that I could. All tested good.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

1.) I figured the 3rd lead was for isolating with use of a 4th series position.  I was asking because incidental shielding contact would/could negate the intended isolated ground path.

2.) I've got a gold, black, and silver electro socket.  The anodized coating isn't very conductive.  Before the thing is even installed, with a tester on the ring and the socket, horrible continuity readings.

3.) Awesome!

4.) Awesome!


Excellent work.

 

[PhilAngus]

This is pretty much how I did mine and I can vouch for the success of doing it this way, my Tele is silent. The only thing I didn't do is the little rolls between the cavities, but I did everything else the same including the jack input socket. Damn, I thought that was just my idea! :icon_biggrin:

 

[BlueTalon]

A neat and tidy job!  I thought the way you routed the surface channel for the neck pickup wire was pretty ingenious.

If I might make a couple of suggestions... You know the way you made slits in the copper at the edge of the bridge pickup route so you could bend them easily and smoothly?  You can do the same thing for the ends of your copper tube going from bridge pickup to control cavity.  Folding them back against the side wall means less possibility of chaffing on the pickup wires or accidentally touching a conductor somewhere. 


The other thing was the bridge ground.  I'm sure what you did will work and probably never have a problem, but what I do for bridges is to make a copper platform that's roughly the shape of the bridge, but a little smaller (for a Tele, I'd just extend it back from the bridge pickup cavity).  That does two things -- it gives the bridge a flat & smooth foundation without any possible fulcrums or tipping points, and it utilizes the bridge screws to make an absolutely bulletproof ground connection.


Question:  It looked like you used copper tape for most of the job, I'm assuming with conductive adhesive.  But for the rolls you made for the bridge pickup and jack route, it's hard for me to tell.  Did you use tape there also?  Or did the copper not have adhesive on it?