Setting up warmoth pro angled neck

[Velcro]

Could someone please provide me with a list(preferebly in order) of how to set up a warmoht pro angled neck - truss rod adjustments before and after putting on body and stringing up. Thank you. :icon_thumright:

 

[JaySwear]

i'm curious too. i've read pretty much all i can find about the side adjuster, but if somebody could explain it to me like i'm almost illiterate it would help me out

 

[Cagey]

Have you guys read what Warmoth wrote here?

That's the method I've always used, and it works well. It helps if you have an 18" to 24" machinist's rule, or some sort of precision straightedge to find when you're flat to start with.

 

[smjenkins]

Have you guys read what Warmoth wrote here?

FWIW, every Warmoth with the side adjust mechanism comes with this information in a pamphlet (minus the pretty pictures). 

 

[Velcro]

Unfortunatly because mine does not have a side-adjust mechanism, thats why I am asking.

 

[JaySwear]

Have you guys read what Warmoth wrote here?

i read that, but the picture almost confused me more. i'm just curious about things like whether the side adjustment will adjust the relief as well as the adjustment at the butt end, or whether i'll need to take the neck off to reset everything after every few adjustments. that and basic maintenance. i just need an idiot's guide to the side adjuster, and i have no idea where the pamphlet might be now! i'll have to look though, i'm sure i wouldn't have thrown something like that away

 

[Cagey]

Unfortunatly because mine does not have a side-adjust mechanism, thats why I am asking.

In your case, you might benefit from this bit at Fender's site:

First, check your tuning. Affix a capo at the first fret and depress the sixth string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret—see the spec chart below for the proper gap.

Adjustment at headstock (allen wrench): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the headstock, looking toward the body of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Adjustment at neck joint (phillips screwdriver): Sight down the edge of the fingerboard from behind the body, looking up toward the headstock of the instrument. If the neck is too concave (action too high), turn the truss rod nut clockwise to remove excess relief. If the neck is too convex (strings too close to the fingerboard), turn the truss rod nut counter-clockwise to allow the string tension to pull more relief into the neck. Check your tuning, then re-check the gap with the feeler gauge and re-adjust as needed.

Note: In either case, if you meet excessive resistance when adjusting the truss rod, if your instrument needs constant adjustment, if adjusting the truss rod has no effect on the neck, or if you're simply not comfortable making this type of adjustment yourself, take your instrument to your local Fender Authorized Dealer.

Neck Radius
7.25" - .012" (0.3 mm)
9.5" to 12" - .010" (0.25 mm)
15" to 17" - .008" (0.2 mm)

They don't mention it, but you should know that very little adjustment is usually needed. 1/8 to 1/4 turn is usually as far as you ever need to go. If you're going farther than that, something is probably wrong.

 

[Cagey]

Have you guys read what Warmoth wrote here?

i read that, but the picture almost confused me more. i'm just curious about things like whether the side adjustment will adjust the relief as well as the adjustment at the butt end, or whether i'll need to take the neck off to reset everything after every few adjustments. that and basic maintenance. i just need an idiot's guide to the side adjuster, and i have no idea where the pamphlet might be now! i'll have to look though, i'm sure i wouldn't have thrown something like that away

The side adjustment is the same as the heel adjustment, and you shouldn't ever need to take the neck off to make any adjustment. Just be sure the neck is flat before you string it up, and you should be fine. Also, if you're close, you might want to wait a day or so for the neck to "normalize" before you adjust again. Truss rod adjustments are small and slow.

 

[tfarny]

Maybe I'm slow or you need to rephrase the question - what is so complicated? You string it up, wait a few hours, then turn the adjusting screw (any adjusting screw that you have, anywhere on any neck, Warmoth or not) clockwise (righty tighty lefty loosey!) 1/4 turn or so. Let sit for an hour, check again and repeat. There's nothing particular or special about setting up a pro neck, or anything particularly different from a side adjuster to a heel or neck adjuster.

 

[Cagey]

It's not complicated, but if someone hasn't done it before they might be a little apprehensive. Lord knows I've seen enough necks where the truss rod adjustment appears to have been made by a blind man using a garden hose for a straightedge <grin>

 

[-CB-]

I dont agree with Fender's "sight down the neck" statement.  It would take a fine, trained, and experienced set of eyes to tell .005" from .010" or .015" when sighting down a neck.

I'm all for "measured" setups, done via straightedge or string (which becomes a straight edge).

First just get it close, then measure the nut slot elevation, then the relief, then the string elevation at the bridge, then the intonation.  Go back and recheck the relief and string elevation.

www.frets.com has a boat/butt load of information on setups.