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Rough Clear Coat - problem?

ZackPomerleau

Junior Member
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So it has been 25 days since my last coat of clear, and I have noticed lots of the front, it is very bumpy. Is this bad, or easy to sand down?


  Also, when I buff with my drill buffer, what is a recommended speed?
 
To be expected.  You're gonna get orange peel, and shrink in.  Both can be wet sanded off if the clear is not paper thin.

Personally... I like 600 grit wet then go to buff.  I find no reason to go to the 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 game.  When you wetsand with 600, if you do it carefully and dont gouge anything, it will buff directly to full gloss - even by hand with auto compound on a rag.

I like (gasp) Formby's Lemon Oil as a wetting agent.  I know - BLASPHEMER!~

Frank Ford showed me how to use kerosene as a wet sanding liquid, and the lemon oil is nothing more than mineral oil with a bit of lemon scent.  If you're gonna recoat with Nitro, the kerosene or oil come off with naphtha, and after all that handling, you're gonna have to wash with naphtha anyway.

Franks idea is that the oil doesn't evaporate as quickly as water, and it tends to keep the paper cleaner, and carry off more material... it just works better than water.

www.frets.com  <--- someplace in there Frank shows how to use Kerosene with wet sanding, I think its in his finishing tips section

 
I made the mistake of not looking carefully at my sanding block before trying something similar.  I had 600 and some of the edge of the sand paper where it had been cut had a little bit leftover.  This left some rather nice scratches in the test piece I was using.  It was a good thing it was a test piece, but I was in a rather pissy mood because of my stupid mistake.  Moral of the post, check the block and get rid of little pieces of sand paper that could cause trouble instead of barging forward with the finishing job.
Patrick

 
Baby oil makes good wet sanding agent, and cheap too... its same as "lemon oil" except this has baby scent rather than lemon scent.

Be sure to overlap the sandpaper a bit on the block... so the edge doesn't gouge the finish.
 
I like to make sure the sandpaper is TIGHT on the block, and that its a little smaller than the surface of the block.  I find the gouges come from where the paper might "fold" at the blocks edge if allowed to hang over the edge.  Whatever works for ya though...
 
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