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Roasted Maple neck mount holes?

Saintpatrick

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I just received my Roasted Maple neck from Warmoth and it came with some special instructions on assembly precautions. In it it details that the screw holes for roasted necks should be one size larger that normal to avoid splitting. I received the neck with the neck mount holes already drilled and ordered the Warmoth neck screws along with it. It stands to reason that if the neck holes should be 1 size larger than normal, it would come that way and the warning would be for tuning machines bushings etc as a rule. Does anyone have an answer to whether I need to enlarge the neck holes as well or are they fine to mount as is. I don't  want to split the heel by not enlarging but also do not want to comprimise the neck stability by having the holes too large. I will be waxing the neck screw threads to reduce stress. 
 
I wouldn't worry about it. For one thing, Warmoth drilled those holes and provided those screws. If they're not right, whose fault is that? Also, the neck heel is going to be fairly tightly bound the by the neck pocket. There's no place for the wood to go. This is opposed to the headstock which is thinner, out in free air, and out of their control for pilot hole size.

I've put threaded inserts in the heel of a bunch of roasted maple necks now without issue, and that's a substantially larger fastener.
 
Cagey said:
I wouldn't worry about it. For one thing, Warmoth drilled those holes and provided those screws. If they're not right, whose fault is that? Also, the neck heel is going to be fairly tightly bound the by the neck pocket. There's no place for the wood to go. This is opposed to the headstock which is thinner, out in free air, and out of their control for pilot hole size.

I've put threaded inserts in the heel of a bunch of roasted maple necks now without issue, and that's a substantially larger fastener.

I know, seems it would be ridiculous to drill the holes and provide screws that don't work together but I've seen weirder. Even if they covered it, I love the flame on this neck and don't want to lose it.
 
Cagey, did you have to employ any special tricks to install inserts into the heel of a roasted maple neck? I just tried doing so with a brand-new quartersawn roasted maple neck, following the guidelines I've seen on the internet, this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bF8P1coy7cY, and used a 1/4" (actually 17/64) forstner bit and a installation tool and drill press (manually turned).

The wood surrounding the insert cracked and lifted. Is this expected with roasted maple? Should I be using a larger bit to drill the hole for the insert?
 

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I have used the provided holes and screws on three roasted maple necks with no issue
 
I tapped the holes for mine and had great results. I made a block like Kevin shows in his thread to keep the tap straight. That's a great little guide for almost no money.
 
So what‘s the deal with drilling holes into the roasted maple concerning the drill size? Should I use a drill of the same size like the screw shaft or even larger?
 
It's a brittle wood, so some care is in order. I've installed a variety of tuners on those necks, and I always use a 1/16" bit for the anti-rotation screw pilot holes when they're required and haven't had a problem yet. Be sure to wax the screw threads before driving them in - it's pretty important. If nothing else, it'll keep you from twisting their little heads off.

When doing inserts, I can only speak to the ones I use which ask for a 1/4" hole, which I slightly countersink and then tap. Don't try to do the "self-threading" thing; you're likely to be sorry.
 
I have a roasted neck on the way. Should I order neck screws from Warmoth and not use the factory Fender American screws?

Also...should I assume the alignment pin holes for the Fender/schaller tuners will need to be drilled by me?
While I am asking...Should I seek a template for tuner pins or insert the tuner and main nut and softly emboss the pin holes in the back of the headstock?
 
jdroost said:
I have a roasted neck on the way. Should I order neck screws from Warmoth and not use the factory Fender American screws?

Also...should I assume the alignment pin holes for the Fender/schaller tuners will need to be drilled by me?
While I am asking...Should I seek a template for tuner pins or insert the tuner and main nut and softly emboss the pin holes in the back of the headstock?

On the screws I cannot see why that would make a difference. If you are using a body with a contoured heel you need the suitable Warmoth screws.

Yes you need to do the pin holes in the headstock.  You could make a template yourself but you can also buy one depends on if you want to spend the cash.

I have one of these for the purpose.

Tuner_Pin_Drill_Jig.jpg

https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Tuner_Installation/Tuner_Pin_Drill_Jig.html

 
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