removing lacquer..

[brownsound79]

i just got a strat (maple) nec/k with very thick lacquer.... it almost the same high as the frets... how to remove the clear lacquer...

 

[Watershed]

If it is lacquer:
Acetone, refinishing gloves, well ventilated area, and a NIOSH approved mask.
Shouldn't take very long.

 

[brownsound79]

what kinda lacquer that fender use...?? Poly...? Acetone that strong..??  how about paint remover...?

 

[Watershed]

Well, for the most part, Fender doesn't use lacquer.
A Fender finish isn't going to really be effected by acetone.
It may dull the finish a bit, that's about it.

So a factory Fender finish is almost as thick as the frets are tall?

 

[Graffiti62]

Is the finish issue on the back of the neck or on the fretboard?  If its on the fretboard, I can see a lot of issues going on in regards to getting the reduction in finish that you want while the frets are still in place, at least to any real consistency. I'm working on a decent Strat knock-off as a flip project, and, while the neck is solid and well-built, the finish had "fish-eyes" and was bumpy in spots. Since I'm re-fretting it from the 6230 wire it had on to 6105, I pulled the frets off and have been hitting it down with high-grit sandpaper, starting at 400 and going to 1000. With sandpaper that fine, you will have to have a day off of work and a mission statement to remove the finish completely, but this will help shape it down to a degree, and make it feel fast as hell when you're done. The only reason I don't keep it for myself really is the neck - if it weren't for the headstock, you'd swear it came off of an Ibanez, and when you have meathooks the size of mine, you almost feel like you're playing a mandolin or ukulele.

 

[brownsound79]

its a 70's vintage re-issue strat... stock small fretwire with very thick high gloss urethane finish... sometims i just forgot that this guitar even  had a fretwire.... 
hey guys.... what about paint remover...?? can i use it on my neck...?

 

[tangent]

Yes, use either toluene and xylene (Goof Off) or a remover based on NMP or DMSO (these are generally labeled as 'Green' paint remover at HD or Lowes, ie Klean strip green)

I don't recommend using the methylene chloride ones like the regular klean strip, too toxic and will likely damage the frets.

Only use toluene/xylene if you have a well ventilated area and a respirator suitable for organic vapors

edit: btw.. after you use any of these removers you will need to do an acetone wash before you apply any other finish

 

[Tonar8352]

Check this thread out.
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7401.0

 

[tangent]

Using a methylene chloride based product like jasco would not be advisable in this case however since he wants to strip the coating off the fretboard without removing the frets..

although methylene chloride will work, it will penetrate the protective coating on both nickel and stainless frets and make them highly susceptible to rust.

NMP or DMSO will strip the finish without harming the frets, and they are also much less toxic than methylene chloride.

Check this thread out.
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7401.0

 

[Orpheo]

@tonar

Man, you're my hero.thanks for that post. Will that methylene chloride also be useful on warmoth's finish? I'm eyeballing a body in the showcase,but its clearcoat finished, and though I love the grain, I need it to have another color.

 

[-CB-]

Using a methylene chloride based product like jasco would not be advisable in this case however since he wants to strip the coating off the fretboard without removing the frets..

although methylene chloride will work, it will penetrate the protective coating on both nickel and stainless frets and make them highly susceptible to rust.

That is incorrect.

First - if the finish is what they used on the 70's originals is the same on the reissues, the only thing that will touch it is methylene chloride.  Forget about using the rest.  Waste of time and money.

Second, what "protective coating" on the nickel and stainless frets?  That is utter nonsense and misconception.  There is no special coating.  Whats more, nickel frets (which are really brass (copper / zinc) with nickel added, wont and cannot rust.  Stainless frets... have no coating, are highly highly rust resistant.  I dont know if you could ever actually get them to rust.

However, that said... you MUST be careful... work with a organic rated mask, and also have eye protection, and gloves.  And, methelene-chloride will eat position markers "like that", or any other plastic (nut!) that it encounters.  You have to work it in small places on marked frets and get it off quickly.  You may need to do some creative patchwork with black superglue and scraping on the markers.  Not terribly hard, not something you want to do, but... just sayin'... it happens when you got so many markers.  Replacing the markers can be done, but its easier to just be careful and scrap the marked areas once the rest of the fret is clear of finish, or go slow and careful and leave the marker areas 'till last and move quickly once the finish starts to soften.

Good luck with it

 

[Tonar8352]

@tonar

Man, you're my hero.thanks for that post. Will that methylene chloride also be useful on warmoth's finish? I'm eyeballing a body in the showcase,but its clearcoat finished, and though I love the grain, I need it to have another color.

I did a test on smjenkins neck because our original intention was to strip and redo his neck. We checked with Warmoth and they said that since it was a satin finish it was lacquer and regular stripper should work. All I can say is it did not really touch the finish.  I tried a test area where the neck attaches to the pocket and it barely dulled the surface.

So I would say that the only way to tell is to do a test. I always put some stripper on an area that will be hid if it does not work; like under a pickguard and if it is going to work it will start to bubble with in 15 minutes.

 

[Orpheo]

@tonar

Man, you're my hero.thanks for that post. Will that methylene chloride also be useful on warmoth's finish? I'm eyeballing a body in the showcase,but its clearcoat finished, and though I love the grain, I need it to have another color.

I did a test on smjenkins neck because our original intention was to strip and redo his neck. We checked with Warmoth and they said that since it was a satin finish it was lacquer and regular stripper should work. All I can say is it did not really touch the finish.  I tried a test area where the neck attaches to the pocket and it barely dulled the surface.

So I would say that the only way to tell is to do a test. I always put some stripper on an area that will be hid if it does not work; like under a pickguard and if it is going to work it will start to bubble with in 15 minutes.

Thanks for your reply. I thought that warmoth's high gloss finish was just regular ol urethane? Too bad I don't have a canister of the stripping stuff at home,nor a guitar which can function as guinea pig. I was hoping you knew if that stuff would make warmoth's lacquer al bubbly too.