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Removing and replacing a stripped, headless screw

  • Thread starter Thread starter oldmanriver
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oldmanriver

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On one of my guitars the strap button on the upper horn has been busted off, leaving the shaft of the screw fully embedded in the body. I finally thought of a way to remove it, which has been tricky because it's too small for any extraction bits I've been able to find. I want to try to drill more holes around the screw, very close to it, almost touching. Then I could try to wiggle it loose by merging the holes into one, leaving me with one big fat hole to fill. Do you think this will work? Are there any potential problems I should be aware of?

I was also wondering what the best way to go about filling the hole would be. Should I fully repair it with glue, toothpicks, and saw dust and then redrill a new pilot hole? Or could I just cram it with toothpicks and stick in a new screw? I'm concerned with the fact that there is a lot of weight on that screw since it holds the whole guitar basically.

(I know you probably know exactly what I mean but I just felt like drawing a diagram anyway. It was fun.)
 

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your tool is here:


http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000983/2009/screw-extractor-14.aspx


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Exactly. Then, glue in an appropriate sized piece of dowel, wait for that to cure, then drill for a strap peg as usual.
 
Bagman, from the reviews on that tool I'm not so sure it will get the job done. It sounds like it's very fragile and performs best on flat surfaces. I wouldn't trust it (or myself) going into the rounded end of the guitar body horn. I also don't see how I would get the screw out of the guitar. The bit will have freed the wood around the sides of the screw but it will still be connected to the body at its deepest point. I have no way of getting under the screw to detach it there. It looks like this would only work on a board that I would be drilling completely through.
 
I believe the procedure is to break the plug off once youre deep enough to free the screw. I have walked screws out with a center punch before that were difficult to drill for a traditional extractor. But #4 screws are probably too small for that.
 
I never did this on a horn but on the back of a guitar I drilled a new pilot hole right next to the broken screw and simply mounted my new strap button covering the broken screw.


 
I'd do, and have done, what the OP is suggesting with great success.  I'd go with the smallest drill bit you can find and go in a star pattern like when torqueing lug nuts.  It keeps the part that will be plugged somewhat centered so what you screw in will cover the oops.
 
That's an interesting idea. Although, I suspect the reason it broke in the first place is because the pilot hole was too small or too short, so the little rascal is probably wedged in there pretty damn tight. I'd try it, though, since everything else is fairly destructive.

As long as I'm posting...

I'm beginning to think Warmoth should modify the site banner to include in bold 24 point Arial the warning:

Always Wax Your Screws!
 
If you have not gone at it yet, the 1/4" bit bagman posted looks like the way to go.
If you drill a 1/4" hole in some hardwood. Next Lay a cut off of 2"x 2" ( any length) inline with the upper horn.
line up to the end fo the horn clamp to the body (with the packing foam thet comes with
necks / bodies )between body & 2"x2".
Get the hard wood aligned with the broken screw. Mark 2 holes to go in the end grain of the 2"x 2"
drill the 2 holes in the hard wood  away from body for 2 screws.
re align hard wood over broken screw drill & screw hard wood into the end grain off the 2"x2".
You now have a 1/4" centering guide to use Bagmans screw extractor & it won't wander.
Drill into the horn 1/2" remove the jig you just built put the screw extractor into the hole go as deep as needed.(Slowish speed drill)
Get the smallest flat blade screwdriver & lever this plug inwards at various points around the edge. A 1/4"hard wood dowl & some glue should fill the hole you made.Thats how i would go at it.( sorry it so long winded). Good luck
 
I have built my own version of what Bagman posted.  You carefully start it, and then don't lean on it, it will bend the teeth if you do.  Don't ask how I know this.  Once it goes far enough, the inside portion breaks off in the "hole saw."  It twists out/snaps off in the saw.  And then you fill the hole with a dowel.  You can wax the screws threads, I would suggest it.  But it doesn't mean this won't happen.  Good luck with it, I have done it and it is a pain, but it is very do-able.
Patrick

 
I've made my own too, a pretty ghetto version. I recommend getting something where you know the outside diameter, and getting proper dowels to fit right. But here's what I did.

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