Recommendations for a nublet

[Gilgamesh]

Greetings all,

I just wanted to come by and continue my brain-picking of the professionals out there.

So, I started my first project a while ago because I thought it would be cool to teach myself how to put together an electric guitar. Well, it's been fun thus far but I am kind of stuck on the finishing and even after reading through CB's sticky, completely unsure on how to proceed so I figure I would ask for a recommendation of sorts.

What type of finish should I be looking into for a durable, non-ambering finish than can be [preferably] sprayed on? It sounds like either urethane or acrylic [water-white] lacquer me but would they be good on a guitar?

I was debating on General Finishes Water-based urethane (http://www.generalfinishes.com/professional-products/water-base-topcoats-and-sanding-sealers/enduro-pre-cat-urethane) but I am worried that the finish would wash off while I'm playing [not that I sweat buckets, mind you.]. Would this work out or should I try for oil/solvent based clear coats?

Any info is greatly appreciated so thanks a ton in advance!

 

[Cagey]

First off, welcome to the forum! Lotta friendly talent here, and plenty of gorgeous projects.

As for your finish...

First, few finishes yellow any more. That defect has been more or less bred out of most finishes.

Second, water-based lacquers are as durable as solvent-based, so no worries there. The main difference, as far as I've been able to tell, is the workability. Water has a much higher boiling point than acetone, so water-based finishes of any type don't flash off as quickly. Depending on your painting environment, that may or may not make a difference. But, the slower reaction also means you'll more easily get runs/sags, and airborne contaminants will more readily adhere to your fresh finish as it stays wet longer. With solvent-based lacquer, you can practically shoot it in your back yard and not worry about it.

Downside is, it's a pain to get it pretty. There's the dreaded multiple coats with the interim sanding steps and and final buffing. You'll be at least several weeks from start to finish.

The various 'thanes make for some gorgeous finishes right at application, but are problematic for DIYers. They stay vulnerable longer, and are toxic as hell. If you don't have a good spray booth with clean make-up air, filtered exhaust and some pricey respirators, you don't want to shoot it. It's nice because it's a lot faster from start to finish than lacquer - I mean, it's basically shoot it and forget it - but it's tough to get set up for it. Then, if something goes wrong, it's nearly impossible to fix, while lacquer you can play with forever sanding/scraping/buffing/polishing until you're happy.

For an SG body as pretty as what you have, I'd be staining and clear coating with lacquer. Easy as pie. Just takes a while.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I have a General Finishes done bass with urethane.  I don't remember the exact finish, but it is nice.  I put it on very thin, and would add more if I was to do it again.  Durable stuff too, used to spray floors.  My friend has the spray set up for it, so that part was easy.  The pre catalyzed urethane goes on fast, rather thick, and are done quick.  I know of a couple of folks that use it because of the speed at which things get done.
Patrick

 

[Cagey]

I love a catalyzed urethane finish. Used to do 'em myself many moons ago. They're fast and easy, beautiful as can be, and durable as hell. That's why all the manufacturers use that now instead of lacquer. But, it is wicked toxic and unforgiving, so it needs the kind of setup few DIYers have. That's why I don't recommend it.

 

[Gilgamesh]

Hey all,

First, I just wanted to say thank you very much for the welcome and for taking the time to answer.

For the dilemma at hand:

Honestly, my original thought was to use lacquer as I will be spraying mostly in a garage/outside . However, my apprehension with solvent-lacquer [Nitro at least, not completely sure if acrylic is different] is that it gives me the impression that it's rather brittle and checks easy. Given that I live in upstate NY, cold checking can be a problem in the winter [which is all the time....].

So it would seem that unless I have a booth I can.... "borrow"... from a friend, use lacquer? Also, I am presuming acrylic lacquer or was the vote for nitro? I know Behlen has a bunch of nitro related products but if there is a better product to use I am all ears.

Thanks in advance!

 

[jackthehack]

That's some beautiful quilt there; what color were you going to do it?

 

[Cagey]

Honestly, my original thought was to use lacquer as I will be spraying mostly in a garage/outside . However, my apprehension with solvent-lacquer [Nitro at least, not completely sure if acrylic is different] is that it gives me the impression that it's rather brittle and checks easy. Given that I live in upstate NY, cold checking can be a problem in the winter [which is all the time....].

So it would seem that unless I have a booth I can.... "borrow"... from a friend, use lacquer? Also, I am presuming acrylic lacquer or was the vote for nitro? I know Behlen has a bunch of nitro related products but if there is a better product to use I am all ears.

Modern lacquers aren't like the old stuff. You shouldn't have to worry about checking or yellowing. I would and do use the Behlen nitro and get good results, although there are certainly other brands that I'm sure would work as well. StewMac is private-labeling Seagrave nitro in addition to the Behlen, which is supposed to be good stuff. I haven't used it yet, but I'm not aware of any reason not to.

Buy your acetone and naptha at Lowe's - it's a little cheaper and will save you shipping as well.

 

[Gilgamesh]

Honestly, my original thought was to use lacquer as I will be spraying mostly in a garage/outside . However, my apprehension with solvent-lacquer [Nitro at least, not completely sure if acrylic is different] is that it gives me the impression that it's rather brittle and checks easy. Given that I live in upstate NY, cold checking can be a problem in the winter [which is all the time....].

So it would seem that unless I have a booth I can.... "borrow"... from a friend, use lacquer? Also, I am presuming acrylic lacquer or was the vote for nitro? I know Behlen has a bunch of nitro related products but if there is a better product to use I am all ears.

Modern lacquers aren't like the old stuff. You shouldn't have to worry about checking or yellowing. I would and do use the Behlen nitro and get good results, although there are certainly other brands that I'm sure would work as well. StewMac is private-labeling Seagrave nitro in addition to the Behlen, which is supposed to be good stuff. I haven't used it yet, but I'm not aware of any reason not to.

Buy your acetone and naptha at Lowe's - it's a little cheaper and will save you shipping as well.

That would be a pleasant surprise. I'll happily stand corrected then. Well, this should give me something to do over the holiday week. I'll have to check woodcraft on my way home.

That's some beautiful quilt there; what color were you going to do it?

What I plan on doing is roughly matching the blue in the inlay since that is what I'm using as a theme. Using a layer of black dye first to make the grain pop through. Along the outside, I will have it "burst" to a blueish-purple.

All the hardware is gold, even got the gold evo fretwire.

 

[Cagey]

Another thing to consider with the "checking" issue is the quality of the wood the finish is applied to. Too coarse a grain or too high a moisture content and the wood will expand/contract to a greater degree, which causes the finish to break in order to allow that movement. Warmoth uses high-grade stuff, and dries it properly.

 

[Gilgamesh]

Figured I'd update on the progress.

Staining / lacquering went surprisingly well for first time. Just waiting for everything to cure. Should be assembling around August. As stated, the hardware will be gold. Can't wait!  :blob7: