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Recent fret job: 1975 Guild F50R, level/crown/dress/polish + new nut install.

TonyFlyingSquirrel

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I'm been fortunate since launching "The Guitar Whisperer" that I have a fairly large clientele of folks just from where I work at my day job at World Vision U.S. in Federal Way, Wa. 

At the U.S. Headquarters campus, we have about 1100 employees, with about 200 of them being guitar/bass/ukulele players of some sort or another. 

I have enough work from here alone to keep me reasonably busy after the day gig is over, and I still have time to do my own recording and other projects.

This recent job was from my good friend Stefan. 

He has what he thought was a 1970 Guild F50 that had very deep pitting in the frets 1-through-5.  The nut was horribly slotted, and he had been using electrical tape in a couple of the fret slots.  Despite having a Fishman preamp installed some years prior to his acquisition of this instrument, the guitar does indeed sound great, but play-ability is an issue because of the nuts and frets.  It's got a neck profile akin to Gibson 59 that's been sanded back slightly, shooting for a 60's slim taper, but left right in between there.  It's beefy, but not a baseball bat.  It's slim, but no Taylor or Ibanez.  Nut Width was 1 11/16".  Nice to have this after working on Martins with 1 5/8" nut widths here & there.

One of the first things I did was observe the serial number, as well as the rosewood sides/back, and my curiosity lead me to Guild's website.  I rarely see a guitar from the seventies with rosewood sides and back unless it's a higher ended on-off custom.  Spruce top & Back, and maybe maple or mahogany sides are common, but not rosewood. 

Guild's online .pdf had some insight, but since I felt like I may have been misreading it, I called them, and spoke with a young man who was most helpful.

He confirmed, according to the serial number, in conjunction with the Rosewood appointments, that this was an F50R, not just an F50, which placed it's construction dates squarely in 1975.

Anyway, I know I should have taken pics before hand, and after seeing the "after" pics, my wife insists that I do "before and after" pics to include with each invoice.

Not the best pics, old LG phone, but anyway... Enjoy.














 
TFS that's nice work!  It's really challenging to work on those oldies with the wood inlays AND binding.  Nice work!
 
fdesalvo said:
TFS that's nice work!  It's really challenging to work on those oldies with the wood inlays AND binding.  Nice work!

It can be a challenge, for sure. 

If this were a newer guitar, I may have been able to get away with taping off a fret at a time, but since the inlay on the headstock and on a couple of frets was buckling up, if went the route of completely taping off the exposed fingerboard, as well as some of the body on both sides of the fingerboard in the upper register.  Also, quite a bit of the neck binding was cracked, wanted to treat that with kid gloves.

On a vintage piece, I want to be as least invasive as is absolutely necessary, unless commissioned to do so.
 
Beautiful work, Tony. Came out great. I think your wife is right about before and after pics to go along with future ones.
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
If this were a newer guitar, I may have been able to get away with taping off a fret at a time, but since the inlay on the headstock and on a couple of frets was buckling up, if went the route of completely taping off the exposed fingerboard, as well as some of the body on both sides of the fingerboard in the upper register.

I've always completely protected customer's necks, but have recently started protecting bodies as well with what they call "anti-mutilation film". It's that clear, low-tack stuff you get on the face of new TVs, computer monitors, phones, mirrors, etc. Wrap the body in that, and you don't have to worry about scuffs and scrapes as much. It's a bit pricey, but when you consider what it would cost to repair/replace a finished body, it's a small thing.
 
Gotta be careful with adhesives - even the super low-tack stuff.  Can easily pull up old lacquer.  Ask how I know  :sad:
 
Super-old stuff rarely needs finish protection - it's generally already pretty thoroughly wrecked. But, you're right - it's fragile stuff that you don't dare experiment with adhesives on. Luckily, I have bath towels that I don't care much about.
 
fdesalvo said:
Gotta be careful with adhesives - even the super low-tack stuff.  Can easily pull up old lacquer.  Ask how I know  :sad:

I'm not a fan of working with binding anyway, so I'm glad that wasn't something that I was commissioned for. 

Besides, it's not presenting a problem, so I advised against disturbing it to begin with.
 
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