Probably A Dumb Question, But...

[Strat Avenger]

Can Tru-Oil be painted over? Would the paint adhere, or would it react badly?

 

[mayfly]

oooooo. Hmmmm. If it were me, I'd remove as much as the Tru-Oil as possible then I'd try a test patch of shellac and see how that went. If the Shellac does not stick, then nothing will.

Keep us posed on that adventure!

 

[triple jim]

My guess is that it would make an excellent primer for paint. Testing is always a good idea though.

 

[Strat Avenger]

Good advice. I'll try a test piece.

 

[Rick]

Mmmh, never tried that. I've always gone in the opposite direction, removing paint, so I could put on poly. So ... the bedroom and closet doors in my house are mahogany from 1929, there was some sort of laquer or poly on them, then over the years the previous owners heaped on latex and lead based paint. I scraped the glop off with a heat gun, then sanded, then used a deglosser / paint remover, sanded again. Revealed the mahogany and put on two coats of regular poly, and two coats of wipe-on. Came out great.

So going in the opposite direction, given that, to me, tru oil is like poly, I'd skip the heat gun and scraping, and because it's probably thin, sand it first, then degloss, sand again, then use a primer, then paint. I'm not sure paint would adhere well to tru-oil.

Or there might be something you could use like the shellac and see how that works.

The only question is: how much time are you willing to devote? Assuming your making twice minimum wage, which in NY is $15 an hours, so that's $30. If you think the project would take more than 10 hours, it might be worth just buying a new neck and finishing that one to you taste.

I figured that each door took about 10 hours, but because they are so unique, it was worth it to me.

As I was writing this, I wonder if one of those wood striping shops could help you? Might be worth a call. Every town over 50K has a least one. I have no idea how much they charge, or if it would even work. That's all I got.

 

[Strat Avenger]

I should have included a bit more information; I am referring to a body (not a neck), and Tru-Oil has not been applied.
I was wondering if a coat of Tru-Oil would act as a sealer between the water-based grain filler and the paint. Since starting this thread, I have read about Zinsser clear shellac spray, and am thinking that may be a better choice for my purpose than Tru-Oil.
Opinions and experience are welcome.

 

[mayfly]

I have used Zinsser on a couple of bodies (that were then hand painted in acrylic artist paint). It turned out very well - years later and the artwork is in excellent shape. Highly recommended on my end.

 

[DuckBaloo]

What kind and brand of paint?

You generally want to stay in the same eco-system for finishes, the manufacturers work hard to make sure the products in the same line work well together. You start mixing products and you could get adhesion issues, cracked, flaking, etc.

 

[Strat Avenger]

What kind and brand of paint?

You generally want to stay in the same eco-system for finishes, the manufacturers work hard to make sure the products in the same line work well together. You start mixing products and you could get adhesion issues, cracked, flaking, etc.

Yeah...uhm......already experienced that situation, which is why I am trying to explore other options.
The paint being used is solvent-based polyurethane from PPG. It's a Brandywine red dye for the base coat, and a polyurethane clear.
The clear did not play nice, and has to be stripped back off. I used Crystalac water-based grain filler on this swamp ash body.
Fun times. Same paint (different colors) was used on my first two builds and came out perfect. Those are alder bodies with no grain filler.

 

[DuckBaloo]

Crystalac sells dewaxed shellac (either their own tub or the cans of Zinsser) as the sealer coat for going between their filler and their polyurethane topcoats, so I think the Zinsser idea is the best option to experiment with. Shellac will stick to most finishes and most finishes stick to it.

 

[Strat Avenger]

Crystalac sells dewaxed shellac (either their own tub or the cans of Zinsser) as the sealer coat for going between their filler and their polyurethane topcoats, so I think the Zinsser idea is the best option to experiment with. Shellac will stick to most finishes and most finishes stick to it.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Rick]

Listen to DuckBaloo.