Post-order fret work question

[Cederick]

I wonder why some people need a freetwork after ordering a Warmoth guitar?
Did the frets really get so uneven that it was unplayable?
Or does this only apply to people who wants a lot of tension on the neck?

Because when I got mine it was perfekt, nothing uneven on it. And I have my neck almost perfectly straight (the tiniest bit of tension that's hardly noticable) for a good action from the first to the last frets.

 

[bbl4ck]

I would say that the fretwork on new Warmoth necks is much more of a want than a need. 
I did not have any fretwork done on my first couple Warmoth necks and I was perfectly happy with them.  Played great and life was grand.
I live in Arizona, and on all my necks I have had to have the fret ends cleaned up after a year or so related to the wood shrinking from lack of humidity.
The fret ends stick over the edge of the neck after it shrinks and is most uncomfortable.
When I took my neck to my tech the first time to have the ends cleaned up, I went ahead and had the frets leveled and crowned while they were at it.
The frets definitely did not need to be leveled and crowned, but the feel after it was done was amazing.
It just makes the frets smooth like butta and plays like a charm.  I have since gradually had it done to all my necks and have never been sorry.  Do a search on the forum and you will find more discussion on this topic...
Try it; you'll like it :icon_thumright:

 

[Cagey]

Warmoth's necks are very good as delivered; no question about it. They're brand new and made to high standards, after all.

But, the frets are still raw. They're not levelled, although it's not like any of them are sitting so proud as to be a serious problem unless you're setting up to be a thrasher. They don't need to be crowned, as they were never levelled so the original crown from the draw dies is still present on the wire. They ends are not dressed at all; they're simply bevelled at about 35°. Finally, they're not polished.

The nuts are cut very well, but the slots will still be a bit shallow because they don't know what strings you're going to put on there, or what you'd consider a comfortable height for them. So, they cut for .10s and leave room for adjustment.

Raw necks are sanded to 220 grit, which insures the thing is properly shaped and is quite comfortable.

They're shipped with the truss rod loose so they're unstressed for the trip though whatever conditions they may be exposed to.

That all adds up to a neck you could install and play right out of the box, given some truss rod adjustment.

Although it might sound like I've listed a number of "cons" to buying a new neck, that's not it at all. They're supplying a new neck into a blind application by an unknown user. They don't know what you're going to do with it or what your preferences are, and even if they thought they did and tried to satisfy them some would take them to task over their efforts. Costs would climb substantially, and warranty work would require an addition on their building to handle the volume. What you're getting is actually how you want it - ready to be set up to suit you. It's entirely possible "as is" will suit you just fine, and I'm sure it does for the vast majority.

But, if you can afford it, a good setup is a wonderful thing. It's a series of minor details that are tedious and time-consuming to complete and isn't apparent to a cursory or unsophisticated review, but your hands know it when it's done. When you're spending $1,200+ on a guitar, what's another 10% or so to make it perfect?

One of the reasons retail shops are allowed to make as much markup on their instruments as they do is they're supposed to set them up for their customers before delivery. Most of them don't do it, do a half-assed job if they can get away with it or will charge if they can. As I said, it's time-consuming and costly. Avoidance is the name of the game. It's part of the reason many OEM guitars get a bad rap - they come from the factory raw, and leave the dealer the same way. If you find one that's done well, such as a Suhr or PRS, then you pay for the factory's setup and that's why they cost thousands of dollars.

 

[Cederick]

Yeah I know most of that, and I'm very satisfied with how the Warmoth neck came  :icon_biggrin:

However, I do my guitar setups myself. I have patience enough to do it even tho I'm not very experienced, with Floyds that is. But my floydet Soloist is setup really good with very low action and can keep the tuning for many days if the weather is stable haha.

However, the A string has the slightest bit of buzz when palm muting an open string, which is WEIRD AS HELL.
I've looked close upen the string, and it does NOT have contact with any frets, nor does it have contact with the pickup or anything. It sits just like it should, but still there is some weird buzz. If it can be because of the nut or a saddle I have no idea.


Hmmmm, that's a bit off topic.

I just wondered about the frets of the Warmoth necks and I already have good experience with it so yeah  :toothy12:

 

[stratamania]

Apart from frets also check for any parts that may be loose, that only buzz at a certain frequency.

 

[Cagey]

However, the A string has the slightest bit of buzz when palm muting an open string, which is WEIRD AS HELL.
I've looked close upen the string, and it does NOT have contact with any frets, nor does it have contact with the pickup or anything. It sits just like it should, but still there is some weird buzz. If it can be because of the nut or a saddle I have no idea.

It's likely to be the nut. The same thing can happen at the bridge, but you say it's when you palm mute, so more likely the nut. Anyway, where the string bears off the nut into its vibrating length, the transition point isn't square. There'll be a slight slope to it that the string will vibrate against, and that's the buzz you hear. Sounds sorta like a Sitar. Usually very difficult to see, but if the symptom goes away by fretting anywhere from the first fret up, then that's it.

Best way to fix it is with a nut file because they're easier to control, but if you're careful you can get away with folding a piece of 320 grit sandpaper over the edge of something very thin, like a feeler gauge or a razor blade. Pop the string out of the slot and sand the slot slowly, angling back toward the tuning peg. You want to avoid lowering the slot on the fretboard side. Even hard nuts cut fairly fast, so just a few passes will probably do it. Pop the string back in, and test. If the symptom is gone, you're done. Resist the "more is better" tendency, or you're liable to wreck the nut.

 

[Orpheo]

You don't really need to level and dress the frets. i didn't bother for the last 6 or 7 years. but recently I started doing it on one guitar and then another and now I'm in the process of tweaking ALL my guitars. cause it really makes a difference. going from good to great. I play first, check what frets need leveling and then I run a fine file over the problem areas. then crowning and then: a lot of sanding with grit 600, grit 1500 and grit 2500.to top it off, polish compound. I also soften the edge of the frets while I'm at it. that's what takes up most of my time, by the way.