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Pickup Switch Rout Not Deep Enough! Help!

Torment Leaves Scars

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So I got my replacement body yesterday and it's absolutely gorgeous.  Everything has gone together without a hitch except one thing; the rout in the electronics cavity is not deep enough to enable the threaded side of the pickup switch to be...threaded.  This means I need to "sink" the pot into the rout in the back so I can get the switch through the front far enough to be able to tighten the nut to hold the switch in place.

Anyway, I don't need to make the hole wider, I just need to do some digging.  I'd brought the guitar to a local music store and he told me to use a Dremel and showed me this bit that was kind of shaped like a pencil eraser and it had some teeth on the tip, plus around the edges.  He told me to carefully go AROUND the hole and just keep everything level.  I purchased this little bit he showed me last night and after looking at it, I'm having second thoughts about whether this is the ideal tool for the job.

Remember, I don't want to make the hold wider, I just need to dig downward until the pot is sunken enough for enough of the threads on it to peek out the front to be tightened.  The routing in the body is literally "off by a thread."

I'm thrilled with the body, and it looks great, but I'm not about to send it back to Warmoth and wait another 4 months, especially for something which seems so minor, but this is just a real pain in the ass.

Anyone have suggestions on the correct tool I should use?

 
Out of curiosity, is this an LP style selector, or Strat style 5 way?  Can I guess it's the former on a lovely Star body?
I've never used a router so I don't have anything overly useful to say.
 
You're using the terms "switch" and "pot" interchangeably, and they're quite different parts with different attachment methods. If it's a switch, what kind is it? Some switches are attached with screws that feed through the top from the top (common on Strat or Tele styles bodies). If that's the case, you may just need longer screws. If it's the toggle type of switch such as is used on Gibsons, sometimes you need a recessed barrel-type nut to hold it on, as the threads won't make it through to the top. Not supposed to. They look like this...

05-01040-lg.jpg

...and can be had from someplace like this.

If it's a mini-toggle, those usually use a flat nut, and you simply need something with a longer mounting housing.

If it's a pot you're talking about, you just need a pot with a long thread shaft housing. Something like this...

CTS500.jpg

That's a CTS part, and they're available everywhere.

Warmoth's control cavity routing is correct, and you shouldn't have to dig around in there at all. Especially since you're right to worry that you'll do something that'll force you to invent new cuss words.
 
Just use a Dremel with the 15mm round stone, use the top face of stone to take a small bit out.
Keeping at a level face ....
Do a little at a time checking as you go.

Some of those toggle switches are thin  :icon_scratch:

a8cf0dc5.jpg


 
Hehe! Yeah, every day...

Only problem with those nuts is you sorta hafta have one of these tools...

Adjustable_Toggle_Switch_Wrench_sm.jpg

You can get away with trying to use a pliers or something, and that'll work, but the chances of wrecking your finish (or the nut) are quite high. But, the tool isn't terribly expensive unless you consider you'll never use it for anything else. On the other hand, what's $18 to save a $300 finish? It's cheap insurance and returns professional results.
 
Cagey said:
Hehe! Yeah, every day...

Only problem with those nuts is you sorta hafta have one of these tools...

Adjustable_Toggle_Switch_Wrench_sm.jpg

You can get away with trying to use a pliers or something, and that'll work, but the chances of wrecking your finish (or the nut) are quite high. But, the tool isn't terribly expensive unless you consider you'll never use it for anything else. On the other hand, what's $18 to save a $300 finish? It's cheap insurance and returns professional results.

Got it done with little trouble, and sure as Hell the switch had a short.  Gotta love this bullsh...

I had a new switch here for that pos guitar so I put that one in and sure as Hell, NO SOUND.  I don't think words can explain how livid I am over this entire process.
 
Review your wiring. I'm suspicious. If it's the kind of switch I'm thinking of such as Gibson used to use, those things are over-engineered for that application to a significant degree. It's highly unusual for one to go bad, never mind two. They were originally designed for telephone switchboards and military use, and so had to withstand an incredible amount of abuse for an extended period of time. Do you have a picture or a part number or something for the part you're working with so we can get an idea of what you're up against?
 
Cagey said:
Review your wiring. I'm suspicious. If it's the kind of switch I'm thinking of such as Gibson used to use, those things are over-engineered for that application to a significant degree. It's highly unusual for one to go bad, never mind two. They were originally designed for telephone switchboards and military use, and so had to withstand an incredible amount of abuse for an extended period of time. Do you have a picture or a part number or something for the part you're working with so we can get an idea of what you're up against?

The guitar is at the shop until Tuesday now.  Warmoth did the wiring as the body I had was replaced.  At the time we thought the issue was a paint issue but the body was cracked.  I told them I didn't know how to do wiring but they were adamant about making things right, which I appreciate.  They told me they'd wire it back up for me so I sent off the body with the electronics still in it.

The guy at the store found some "questionable" issues with the wiring so I left it with him.
 
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