Pickguard mounting hole question

[LRaymond]

Started to assemble all the parts for my Tele build and noticed that the pickguard that I got from Warmoth has at least three different size holes.  It appears that the countersink depth is different causing the hole to be larger on some.  I know that it's not going to effect the mounting, but now some of the screws will sit deeper in the countersink and some sit above.  It just doesn't look professional IMHO.  Would you mount it or sent it back?

I could take a larger drill bit and deepen some of the counterbores, but I'm not sure how that would end.  Thoughts/comments?

 

[DangerousR6]

I would just get a center drill that fits the largest and make the rest the same size..

this is a center drill..

 

[LRaymond]

Scary!  I was at the local Harbor Freight store and bought a small set of these before even reading this post! :cool01:  Too bad the build has crashed and burned.  Tried to clean up the string ferrule holes to seat the ferrules and paint is flaking off  around the hole.  I used a round file and "gently" filed inward, but it's just not working.

 

[Updown]

Too bad the build has crashed and burned. 
Tried to clean up the string ferrule holes to seat the ferrules and paint is flaking off  around the hole. 
I used a round file and "gently" filed inward, but it's just not working.

I only use a very small fine file in the top ferrules ...
BUT only use slowly, turning back and forward of the file NOT up and down !!

As to the bottom ferrules, that you are having trouble with ....
Just get a set of sharp drill bits, find one that just goes in the ferrule hole.
Holding the drill bit in your hand ..... NOT in the drill.
Then slowly and carefully turn a little at a time and take small shavings of paint off the inside of hole.
Till that drill fits though.
Continue doing that up in drill size's till (I think it was 5/16ths)
Just measure your ferrules to the drill bit anyway.

Can use very fine sandpaper wrapped around a pencil etc. NOT up and down !!
That takes longer thou.

Get it to a point of when you can see some indentation in the paint inside of the hole
from trying the ferrules.

Thats how I do mine, never had any trouble.

Some use a soldering iron for doing them  :doh:  ..... But I don't like that idea !!

 

[LRaymond]

Yeah, well that's how I started.  Used a "new" 5/16 bit and by hand gently turned it into the hole.  It started cutting and then it just started lifted the finish instead of cutting.  :doh:

 

[Updown]

Thats what I mean you start with something small and work up to it.

Anyway don't worry !!

:redflag:  Can you post a pic of how it is ?

There are ways to fix things up.
Plenty here to help you as well.  :icon_thumright:

Can't toss away that beauty you have 

 

[Cagey]

Drill press for the ferrules. The paint is no match for the force you'll apply, and you'll be able to apply it square. Makes the job easy as pie. Nothing to sand/cut/drill/whatever.

 

[QehQeh]

According to Dan Erlewine, at the Fender factory they use a soldering iron and hold it to the ferrule while applying slight pressure to the opening of the whole in the body. Once the paint heats up, the ferrule slides right down into the whole. I have a video from StewMac where he demonstrates this.

 

[Cagey]

I'm not a fan of the soldering iron method. Fender may drill their holes sloppy enough for that trick to work once, but Warmoth doesn't. The ferrules have to be pressed or pounded in, even if you clear the finish first. The other problems associated with heated ferrule installation include burnt or bubbled finish, or destruction of the finish upon removal should that ever be necessary. Mayfly had the latter problem last year when installing a B-bender...

Removing the ferrules also pulled the finish off the body. That's NFG. Although, to be fair, it's not often you remove ferrules so that shouldn't really be a problem.