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Orange Tele - Neck Seated?

NQbass7

Senior Member
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So I got most of it screwed together, but nothing wired up yet (Two push-push pots and a 4-way switch will make for some interesting wiring...)

I had to raise the saddles up what seemed like pretty high to get rid of buzzing though.  Is it possible the neck isn't seated all the way?  I've taken it off and put it back on twice now, and I still have the same gap between the pickguard and the underside of the fingerboard, no matter how I put it on.  Or is it okay for the saddles to be that high?

Also, is there any advice on where to place the strap button for best balance?

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AWESOME GUITAR!!! On the upper lobe(?) as close as you can get to the headstock for optimum strap placement  :icon_thumright:
 
Super Turbo Deluxe Custom said:
The gap is normal and intentional.  The buzzing is a neck setup most likely or possibly a fret level issue.

yeah, i forgot to ask if there was much relief in the neck. if you hold the headstock up to your eye and look straight down the edge of the fretboard you can really tell how the neck is bending. you might have already tried that, but those saddles do look really high
 
JaySwear said:
yeah, i forgot to ask if there was much relief in the neck. if you hold the headstock up to your eye and look straight down the edge of the fretboard you can really tell how the neck is bending. you might have already tried that, but those saddles do look really high
With a capo on the first fret and holding down the 14th, there's a very small gap between the low e-string and the 6th fret (half the diameter of the string or less - I don't have feeler gauges or a ruler with 64ths, so I can't say how much for sure).  The truss rod is not far off from as loose as it can go.

I kinda figured the saddles would be high on the outside, because it's more of a vintage bridge, and the neck is compound radius.  But they're all pretty high.  It seems to be working now - still a little buzzing on the low strings at the high frets with medium strumming, but that's it.  Just seems like something is a little off for the saddles to need to be that high.  :dontknow:
 
Did you put those saddle's on upside-down?

Those look like the comp-cut saddles, I'm just curious...
I just saw the relection of the bottom of the saddle in the bridge, NVM

As for your buzzage, is your neck set up properly? When I got my W neck, I have to level and recrown the frets. I also had to set the truss rod to appropriate relief.

How do you like that P-rail? I've never had a chance to use one....
 
Haven't done anything with the frets.  Truss rod is adjusted where I thought it needed to be.  Like I said, it seems to play okay now, it's just that the bridge seems high.

I haven't tried the P-Rail out yet - haven't wired everything up.  I just got it screwed together, still gotta pull out the soldering gun.
 
if you look at the OTHER side of the pocket, you'll see the heel fully seated wood-to-wood...

the ledge gap is normal
 
=CB= said:
the ledge gap is normal
And the bridge height?  It just seems like the action isn't that high, even though the bridge seems much higher than it should be.  I'm probably going to take it to a luthier to get the frets leveled in the near future anyways, so maybe that will help.
 
I really don't think that your saddle's look very high.

How many tele's have you ever played? I think that's about right....
 
Paul-less said:
I really don't think that your saddle's look very high.

How many tele's have you ever played? I think that's about right....
Approximately none outside local guitar shops, and I never payed a ton of attention to how they were set up.

I emailed Joe Barden Engineering to see what they thought of the bridge, and got the following back after sending pictures of the bridge:

[quote author=Frank at JBE]While I can't tell everything from the picture, it appears you have the saddles set up fairly high.    This is needed on some guitars but not necessarily proper for others.  Does the neck rise up high where it meets the body?  If so, the neck pocket may need some work to reduce the height and in doing so reduce the need to raise the saddles high to avoid buzzing at the frets.  [/quote]

And later in a followup email after I sent pictures of the neck joint:
[quote author=Frank at JBE]I believe, contrary to what you were told, where the neck overlays the pickguard is too high from the pics you sent. 

As a comparision point.    On one of our teles here in the shop,  the distance between the top of the pickguard and the E6 string is 9/32".  What's yours?  I'd bet it is another 1/8" or better.  But pictures can be deceiving. 

I would have expected that the overhang of the fretboard would have just kissed the top of the pickguard to allow you to easily slide the pickguard under the fretboad.  Instead you have what looks like a pretty good sized gap there that would cause your bridge to have to be set higher (as is your problem).[/quote]
His advice (reiterated in both emails) was basically "Let a luthier figure it out." (Specifically: "I prefer to let my luthier work on my guitars rather than do it myself.  He is better qualified for that than I and has better skills to take a more global view of the problem from the nut to the bridge" and "Now that you have the opinions of people who do not have the guitar physically in hand, you should take it to someone qualified to assess it in person.") 

I dunno... part of the reason I chose to build instead of just buying though was because I wanted to learn setup stuff... so while I won't be re-routing the neck pocket or anything, I'm going to try to figure it out on my own as much as possible.

Once I get home I'll go ahead and measure the pickguard to string distance and see where it's at.  I may end up getting it to a luthier either way, but maybe I'll stop by the local place and see what their Tele's look like first.
 
While Warmoth stuff is licensed to make Fender replacement parts, and it is interchangeable with Fender stuff, it ain't a Fender.  Because JB's shop Tele has a smaller gap doesn't mean your's will.

Here is the gap on my Tele with pickguard and Warmoth Pro neck.  The pickguard thickness is .090", as is your's.

 
Final questions:

1: Is it comfortable to play?
2: Is it properly intonated (as proper as a tele can be)?
 
So my height from pickguard to E-string is almost exactly 3/8".

As for comfort and intonation, as far as I know, yes.  I haven't run into any comfort issues (seems to be as comfortable as my Hamer Artist) and I was able to get relatively good intonation on it.  The main thing I was concerned about is if the bridge is fine in the position that it's in (which is why I emailed JB... never really got an answer to that question).  Other than that, everything seems fine.
 
The bridge looks normal to me. I've seen them a good bit higher. It's better than the opposite problem of protruding screw ends, which gouge your palm and require annoying Dremel work on some very small height adjustment screws. You could slightly backwards-shim the neck for a quickie fix if it really bothers you, but I sure wouldn't.
 
I just measured both of my Warmoth Teles. The first one measures about 3/8" from the pickguard to the low E string (same as yours). The gap beetween the fretboard overhang and pickguard also looks the same as yours (you want some gap there). The second Tele (which has the same Barden bridge as yours) measures more like 5/16", but I actually had to remove material from the underside of the fretboard overhang on that one because it was hitting the pickguard. I can tell from the picture that your saddles are adjusted a little higher than mine, but not a whole lot. If you're really worried about it, I would say go to the hardware and pick up some slightly longer set screws for the saddles. You could also sand the neck heel, adding a tiny bit of angle to the mating surface, but I would only try that as a last resort. Otherwise, play it and enjoy it. Great looking guitar, by the way!

-Bobbie
 
I'll bring this back up because it happened to me... but....

That blue sparkle body I did was thinner than a normal tele body.  Yes.  Now here's the thing - it was like they smacked 1/8 (or maybe only 1/10 inch, heard to measure) off the top, and left the rest of it just as is.  That is... from the BACK of the body to the pocket was normal, but from pocket to top was short.  The result?  Bridge was looking REALLY high.  I noticed that the control cavity wasn't quite as deep... and the jack hole wasn't centered...  Its like it was s'posed to be a lam top and never made it.  Dunno.

Having said all that, the jack plate was corrected, the bridge was set high but worked just great.  The action and playability were fine.

The only "gotcha" was the bridge was so high that there was no way an ashtray would fit on it.  Who uses those anyway?  Nobody.

Vic loves it!, and it does make damping mucho-easier...
 
Huh... I didn't measure mine, maybe it's thin too?  I'll check it out when I get home.  I've almost got everything together now, just waiting for a new set of tuners because one of the locking posts came off and fell down the air vent  :doh:  Horrible way to waste $60.  Once that comes I'll have to do some pickup adjusting, and then I just need to get an amp that's not a piece of crap so I can hear how awesome it sounds  :headbang1:
 
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