Nut files

[Cederick]

http://www.warmoth.com/Nut-Files-Set-of-8-P45C215.aspx

This is the only set I can find on Warmoth but what about if I use 009-042 strings? or maybe 009-046 as I use on some others... Would these work for that too?

 

[Cagey]

Strictly speaking, you don't want the slots to be larger than the strings. But, a couple thousandths between friends is no reason to get your shorts in a wad. Where it becomes a problem is when the string is swimming in the slot and so able to move side to side too much. You end up with tuning and spacing issues. But, they have to be pretty far off for that to really be an issue. I don't think anybody cuts for strings smaller than a light set of 10s. Plus, with any file set, you can apply a little "english" to them so you can use a smaller file to make a slot that's larger than its intrinsic size, but smaller than the next size up in file set.

Assuming the slot is at least large enough for the string, what's more critical is the shape and angle of the slot. Angle you can control, shape is more difficult. You need precisely made (read: round bottomed) files for that, which is often reflected in the price. A good set of  nut files can easily run $100+. Not that there's anything tricky about the things, it's just that they're not the sort of tools that are turned out by the bajillion like screwdrivers or toenail clippers. Mean ol' Mr. Supply and Demand makes 'em pretty dear.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

... You need precisely made (read: round bottomed) files for that ...

^^ This ^^  :sign13:

 

[croquet hoop]

When doing a search on the subject, I found this : http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-discussion-forum/65805-nut-files-feeler-gauge.html

I agree that there is a proper way to do it (with precisely shaped nut files), but if the cheap way works for Ron Kirn, it must not be that bad (his experience must certainly help, though.)

 

[SustainerPlayer]

I'm not the one to question Ron Kirn. Except here.  :icon_biggrin:

Answer #2 in the linked thread really says it all.

 

[Cagey]

I have only the greatest respect for Mr. Kirn's knowledge and skills. I've learned some things from him and I refer to him often when I need an example of how to do things. But, it is precisely that knowledge and skill set that allows him to break the rules. You don't want to try some of his shortcuts on the first pass at something. Pay the dues, then reap the rewards.

 

[croquet hoop]

But, it is precisely that knowledge and skill set that allows him to break the rules. You don't want to try some of his shortcuts on the first pass at something. Pay the dues, then reap the rewards.

I cannot but agree. This is what I mean when I referred to his experience.

Anyway, as long as you have (or plan to have) several guitars to set up, or have friends who are ready to give you something to work on their guitar, the price of these tools seems much more reasonable. If it is just for a one-time job, it will be cheaper to ask a qualified tech to do it, though.

 

[Cagey]

Right. If a good set of nut files costs $100, and a shop charges $25 to set up a decent nut, you only need 4 guitars to make those tools free. Give or take a bit, of course. The raw nuts, shaping files, clamps, sandpaper, polishing paper, and glue aren't free, but they're not a major expense on a per-job basis. It's more the time and balls. Plus, you gotta be good at it. If the skill isn't there, no amount of money/time/materials will make up for it.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Might as well ask here. The D slot in my Gibson LP is low. I've made it playable with a little sliver of paper in the slot. Would rather not get a new nut - can I fill and re-cut it?

 

[Cagey]

In a word? No.

Needs a new nut. Even on brand-spankin' new nuts, if you cut a slot too low or cut the whole piece so it sets too low, it's called a "blown nut" (try and keep your minds out of the gutter, here). You knock it off the neck and start over. Happens to the best of us. Plan on it happening, sometimes. For instance, if the frets are so out of whack that you have to take a long leveling file of some sort after them, your chances of knocking the nut off by accident are real high. There's not much holding them on there, since you're trying to glue dissimilar materials. Even "Super Glue" won't hold the little bugger in place against a sideswipe from a heavy file. Damned things snap off so easy it's a joke.

The upside is a new nut isn't usually very expensive. They're about $25 around here. If the shop has a good tech, replacing the nut is often a Good Thing. Chances are if you're chewing on the frets (or having them chewed), the nut needs replacing anyway.

 

[Hbom]

Might as well ask here. The D slot in my Gibson LP is low. I've made it playable with a little sliver of paper in the slot. Would rather not get a new nut - can I fill and re-cut it?

Unscrupulous individuals have been known to put a drop of thick super glue in the bottom of the slot, then re-cutting with a file.
Works OK, but should not be confused with a properly replaced nut.
:rock-on:

 

[TheDrizzle]

I read this as "nut flies".  After an uncomfortable moment of panic and fear I remembered I was on a guitar forum and reread it correctly.

 

[Cagey]

Afraid of being found out? Not showering enough? What? <grin>

 

[Cederick]

Ok I think I get it I'll probably give it to a tech, yes.
But I like doing stuff myself... Ah...

However the question was just if those could be used for 009 strings.

 

[Hbom]

However the question was just if those could be used for 009 strings.

Read Reply#1

 

[Cederick]

I did maybe I didn't ackenoledge it because of a lot of more answers in the thread

 

[Tony Raven]

Might as well ask here. The D slot in my Gibson LP is low. I've made it playable with a little sliver of paper in the slot. Would rather not get a new nut - can I fill and re-cut it?

Don't use standard Krazy Glue or such -- it has ZERO filling capability. Two-part epoxy, maybe. When you start putting in that much effort, you might as well get a pre-slotted nut & shape it to fit.

But when I was doing steady gigs, & had little time (or cash) for a new nut, I'd pull it & put in a shim cut from an index card. Minimal tonal reduction, & buys a little time. If that's not thick enough, then you NEED a new nut.