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Nitro over epoxy filler?

Orpheo

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I've had it with 2 guitars of mine. they aren't glossy, they look like CRAP with their faded oil, and on some spots no oil at all.

I used an oil that didn't polymerize. so maybe thats my luck after all. anyway.

I tried to sand the top, and with 220 and 5 minutes elbow grease the topcoat was already a goner. My idea was to fill it with epoxy. and from there on, I'm at a loss. what will happen afterwards?

will that leave me with a glossy look already? can I use nitro over the epoxy?or should I use acrylic?
 
Orpheo,
Is it possible to re-create the existing finish with filler on a piece of scrap wood to tell what finish will stick to it.  I have found that some paints dont even stick to themselves correctly (second coats).  Ifins you cannot recreate with scrap, try it in the neck pocket or inder the pickgaurd first by masking it off and trying it.  If it doesnt work, or you dont like it, sand it off and try another finish.

I hope this helps.  I feel vastly underqualified to answer this question, but SOMEONE should at least try to help.  HINT HINT finish masters.
 
You don't say what kind of oil, or what kind of wood. I can't imagine anything sticking to oil, polymerized or not. But, TSP (TriSodium Phosphate will clean/degrease any kind of wood pretty thoroughly without hurting it. It's what some furniture finishing/restoration guys use. Downside to it is it's an oxydizer, so it will darken high-tannin woods like Mahogany, Cherry or Walnut. I doubt the reaction is as dramatic/severe as what you can do with Potassium Dichromate, but it's certainly something to consider if color is an issue. Other woods such as Maple, Alder, etc. won't react, color-wise.

You've seen it before in laundry detergents before the phosphate panic hit 20-30 years ago or so, as it's a very effective stain remover/whitener. They still sell it as a detergent additive on screaming late-night infomercials as "OxyClean", albeit at quite a premium. It can be found raw all over the place at substantially less cost.

Anyway, that'll clean the oil off the wood. After that, resurfacing/finishing is what you'd expect for raw wood.
 
the woods are padouk and wenge, oil: no idea what type of oil.

I just took the big leap, and I sanded off the guitar back to the bare wood (which wasn't hard to do at all, by the way, just 15 minutes elbow grease). then I just brushed on the nitro. I didn't do the porefiller. I couldn't be bothered, haha.

it sticks quite well so far. Let's see how it holds up over time.
 
Oh, no. I'm afraid you've made a lot more work for yourself. Those woods don't want to be finished even if you do clean them. They have to be seriously degreased even if they haven't been oiled because they're naturally oily on their own. Then, they have to be sealed.

That may be why whatever oil you used before never set up properly. Plus, the grain is wide open on those woods, so there's no way you sanded all the additional oil off. There's still gonna be an ocean of the stuff in all the nooks and crannys.

Time will tell. Maybe you'll luck out somehow. But, I'm not optimistic.
 
the luthiers I've talked to don't see any storms on the horizon. it works just fine. besides, warmoth can do it too.

the woods were dry as a bone before I gave them the first coat. we'll see.
 
I know Warmoth does it, but they also do what needs to be done to facilitate that.

I may be worried about nothing, so don't sweat it. Lord knows I've gotten away with lots of things that I theoretically shouldn't have been able to <grin>
 
DangerousR6 said:
Most epoxy's will buff out to a high gloss, no need for nitro over top..

good to know for in the future, thanks :) If I get at it once more or if the nitro peels away, I'll try that. thanks! :)

ps: there's a dutch movie called 'new kids Nitro' and every time I write down the word 'nitro' I have to think of that movie. It's a TERRIBLE movie. but fun anyways, haha.
 
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