New VIP Build

Schmitty

Junior Member
Messages
43
I am looking to build my first Warmoth and have been agonizing for weeks over every aspect of the build from wood type to hardware. I am replacing my Ibanez artcore ak85 due to the size. I am a strat player but i love the growl of the artcore but i can't stand the size for my play style and comfort. The Artcore is has a sitka spruce top with curl maple sides and back and a 3 piece mahogany neck…but I’m not a huge fan of the top.

I am thinking about going with either a Black Korina or Mahogany semi-hollow core with 1 F hole. The top will be either quilt maple or Indian Rosewood. I’m thinking about pearloid binding throughout and pearloid trapezoid inlays on the neck.
H-X-H route. PRS recess controls...does anyone know if Warmoth will add a 4th recess route? I am so accustomed to my 2 tone and 2 volume on my artcore.


I really like the idea of going with an IR on IR 24 3/4 scale WM neck but I’m not sure if it will look that great with the Quilt Maple top without a great finish. I am looking for suggestions on the finish that would work. I’m thinking something dark like a tiger’s eye finish.

If that won't work I’ll probably go with the IR top and just do a Liberon Oil finish as suggested by Ivar here http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=17879.0


I am also looking for everyone's input on the hardware as from reading this board I’m sure someone has done something similar and has great ideas with matching these items.

I'm going to go with nickel or gold across the board if possible. Tuners will probably be the Gibson Vintage Kluson tuners [hoping to find replicable bushings that are MOP instead of the ivory]

I'm going to go with a hardtail but I want something that won't be straight I like the look of the angled hardtail.

The PUPs are tough I’ve mostly played single coils Texas Specials or 57's and HB pups are a new frontier for me. The ACH1 and ACH2 PUPs in the Artcore are pretty generic.


Thanks in advance for all your input and if i'm way off base on this build please be honest... This project is not a RUSH but i have some serious GAS after trolling these boards for a while.
 
First of all, welcome!  Take your time and ask around... we're all opinionated and experienced.

Some notes from me:
1) Both Black Korina and Mahogany are great core woods.  You won't be disappointed.
2) IR on IR is an amazing neck that will darken with time.  I imagine it will look wonderful with a maple-capped body.
3) Tuners: seriously consider locking Sperzels... certainly locking tuners at least.  The difference is amazing.  Sperzel tuners can be retrofitted with all sorts of materials for the button itself.
4) There are a number of great humbuckers out there.  I especially like Lollar Imperials, Gibson Burstbuckers and Duncan 59s.  Something decently hot but not losing the jangle.
5) Bridges: just search around and find what you think is sexy.  There's not a lot of crap out there anymore.

-Mark
 
Mark,

Thanks for the response. I am really looking forward to the IR turning dark over time. I'm hoping I can get a neck that is already fairly dark as I'm not a huge fan of the lighter rosewood. I will check out the tuners but do you happen to know if they can be fitted with a Mother of Pearl looking cap. I am going to have MOP inlays and binding so i want it to flow. The more I look i'm thinking i'm going with the Nickle plated hardware to match.

I am giong to post in the DIY finish forum regarding a really dark blue/purple die to black burst. Hopeing someone has some ideas.

 
This first link is a great resource for all things Sperzel, and I've had good luck getting pearloid replacement buttons from the second site I've linked.  I've seen many ebay-esque shops that do custom buttons for Sperzels, and they way they're designed, it's not hard to do.  They're very modular, very well made tuning machines.  By the way, they go from right to left handed by simply taking them apart and re-assembling the other direction.  No one will tell you that, but I've bought a "lefty" set for cheap and reversed them.

-Mark

http://www.tkinstruments.com/id75.htm

http://www.specialtyguitars.com/tuners/buttons.html

 
AprioriMark said:
This first link is a great resource for all things Sperzel, and I've had good luck getting pearloid replacement buttons from the second site I've linked.  I've seen many ebay-esque shops that do custom buttons for Sperzels, and they way they're designed, it's not hard to do.  They're very modular, very well made tuning machines.  By the way, they go from right to left handed by simply taking them apart and re-assembling the other direction.  No one will tell you that, but I've bought a "lefty" set for cheap and reversed them.

-Mark

http://www.tkinstruments.com/id75.htm

http://www.specialtyguitars.com/tuners/buttons.html

WOW that is exactly what I was looking for! Now i'm questioning if i should go with the Black MOP. those a pretty choice.
 
Concentric pots will get you the controls you need whilst retaining the 3 recessed PRS style layout.
3rd spot is usually pickup selector, although you can opt for the blade style in the usual strat position too.
 
Ok i have another question. Has anyone tried using a trapeze tailpiece with an archtop bridge on a VIP before? If so what bridge would you recommend? Is this even a viable option?
 
I've never seen it done. I mean, it's a VIP body. They're nice. VIP = Very Important Part. Why would you want to put a trapeze bridge on it? That's like putting bias-ply tires on a Maseratti.

maserati-4.jpg


Hmmm... let's see... what's the least we can do to cause the most harm?

Hehe! But, seriously. No. Never seen it done. I think there's a law against it. If not, there should be.  In any event, I don't think a VIP has enough ass on it to allow for a trapeze. They were used more on big semi-acoustics with all sorts of real estate between the bridge and the back edge.
 
Cagey said:
I've never seen it done. I mean, it's a VIP body. They're nice. VIP = Very Important Part. Why would you want to put a trapeze bridge on it? That's like putting bias-ply tires on a Maseratti.

Hehe! But, seriously. No. Never seen it done. I think there's a law against it. If not, there should be.  In any event, I don't think a VIP has enough ass on it to allow for a trapeze. They were used more on big semi-acoustics with all sorts of real estate between the bridge and the back edge.

I agree with Cagey on this one, a trapeze tailpiece would be out of place on a build like this, and would probably not be the best choice in terms of looks or performance.



Oh, and back on topic, I don't think Warmoth will do that extra recessed hole you were asking about, so I agree with the suggestion for concentric pots to achieve your goal.  It sounds like a great plan you have going so far.  I love the look of the VIPs and think a dark Rosewood or other exotic neck will look awesome.  Good luck with it.

:eek:ccasion14:  Cheers to you and Cagey too.  We're all friends here though we sometimes rib each other.
 
I'm going to go with Minnie Mouse then.  Last thing I want is for anyone to get banned.  Especially discussing a first class build such as this.
 
Oh, great sounding build, and if you want a TOM, go for it. Custom is all about what you want.

I do not think it is the best choice for that style or for any form of performance, but then I like Tele bridges on Teles and how in the world can I defend that bridge?
 
If a TOM would not be functional then what would everyone here choose to have on thier VIP build like this? I never use my tremelos on my guitars so a hard tail makes the most sense to me.
 
Schmitty said:
If a TOM would not be functional then what would everyone here choose to have on thier VIP build like this? I never use my tremelos on my guitars so a hard tail makes the most sense to me.

The Gotoh 510 is a superior part.
 
Cagey said:
Schmitty said:
If a TOM would not be functional then what would everyone here choose to have on thier VIP build like this? I never use my tremelos on my guitars so a hard tail makes the most sense to me.

The Gotoh 510 is a superior part.

Thanks! I like the look of that one as well.
 
Doesn't fall off when you remove the strings, either, the way a TOM + stop tailpiece will. There are a couple little spring retainers built into the base, so it sorta snaps in place and stays there.

One caution, however - you want to have the mounting posts set a little high before you snap it on or off, or you're liable to scratch the finish on your body. The spring retainers are themselves secured with a couple phillips pan head screws that protrude from the bottom. If the bridge is set too low, you'll gouge the body with them. A minor manufacturing engineering change by Gotoh would eliminate that problem at no cost, but guitar hardware is upgraded/modernized at glacial speeds. For instance, you can still buy non-locking tuners. It's like having the cure for cancer readily available while some people stand there and say "I like my pathology the way it was, fool!"

Fortunately, once the bridge is installed there's really no reason to be taking it on or off, so it's not a big problem. I just mention it so you don't get surprised.
 
Sorry Guys **** Posts have been edited*****  No politics please.... Even if it is subtle others can get offended...... Thanks and carry on!
 
RobR said:
Sorry Guys **** Posts have been edited*****  No politics please.... Even if it is subtle others can get offended...... Thanks and carry on!

My first post on the boards and I'm already causing problems lol
 
You're not causing problems. It was my fault for spuriously mentioning a name on the no-fly list, which somehow instigated an unreasonable response, which in turn caused its own heavy-handed reaction. This is how it often proceeds on message boards, which is why many of them don't allow any such discussion. In any event, we've all learned some things, so we'll just move on.
 
Cagey said:
You're not causing problems. It was my fault for spuriously mentioning a name on the no-fly list, which somehow instigated an unreasonable response, which in turn caused its own heavy-handed reaction. This is how it often proceeds on message boards, which is why many of them don't allow any such discussion. In any event, we've all learned some things, so we'll just move on.

Yeah I was just kidding
 
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