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Here is a pretty thorough comparison of Warmoth's replacement necks versus Fender's.
Yeah, I know neck thickness is a matter of personal preference, and that's fine. I think that if I had big hands, I would want a thick neck. The only Fender I currently own is my 1990 Strat, which has a thin neck; even thinner than Warmoth's Standard Thin.![]()
I thought thinner was better until I started playing thicker necks. I have a JM, 62 hot rod and Pre-Hendrix MIM that are all 0.835” that I liked a lot more than my 90’s Fenders that were .790 - .800. I have a CIJ 52RI that isn’t quite my thing. I also don’t like bigger Gibson’s. Then I tried a Fatback on a whim, amazing! I think as long it’s a C, thick is great for me. V and D, not so much.I am pretty sure that if you know what you want you would choose a custom neck.
Fender necks in the 90s were definitely thinner, but the internet connoisseurs have brainwashed the guitarist population with the idea that thicker=better despite of the trend from the 50s to the 80s to get thinner and thinner...
I had a 1969 strat like the one Hendrix used, nut width was 40mm sharp and thickness 20mm. It was small.
Same for me.I think as long it’s a C, thick is great for me. V and D, not so much.
Another really informative video, but I'm surprised you left out a lot of the Warmoth options that you can't get with Fender replacement necks, such as:
* scalloped frets - Fender has offered this, but it locks you into all the other specs that come with it (Am Pro II?)
* tuner holes - you mentioned this a bit when talking about headstock thickness, but I don't recall you mentioning the options available here
* painted headstocks - if that's still available, not sure
* headstock veneers - ditto
* binding - several options
* scale conversions - baritone, Gibson
* mounting holes - 4-hole, 3-hole micro-tilt, no holes
* number of frets - 21, 22, 24 fret extension