Neck for all walnut chambered/hollow body

[dNA]

So I'm looking to build my first Warmoth some time in the next year (got a long-distance move coming up this year, so we'll see where funds are at after the summer.)
The idea i have in mind is an all-walnut VIP. I'm not sure if i'll go chambered or hollow - Leaning towards hollow.
Either SH or SSH pickup wiring. Fixed bridge.
I'm looking to get some real open, articulate sounding clean tones. something a bit woody. I really loved the sound from a satin finish 335 dot (much more than the quilt top models that are much more expensive) but i'm definitely going for the single coil for cleans.
Anyway, what would match up well with that kind of body? Walnut's a fairly bright wood, but with a hollow body, i don't know if getting a warmer neck wood would lead to muddiness or a lack of articulation. I guess i'm equally scared of getting a bright neckwood and having it be too snappy. Thoughts?

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I forget the member who said it, but brightness can be EQ'd out easier than adding brightness.  So it's better to have it too bright then not bright enough.  Believe it or not, the neck will effect the brightness more than the body will, atleast that's the ongoing opinion of most of the experienced forum members.  You could get a Walnut neck.  That would look great with an all Walnut body but there's no guarantee the 2 pieces of Walnut (body and neck) would match, and Walnut requires a finish.  Have you considered an exotic neck wood that wouldn't require a finish?  Walnut, Maple, Mahogany, Black Korina necks would all require finishes but Canary (call for availabilty), Bloodwood, Wenge, Goncalo Alves, Pau Ferro, Wenge, Rosewood, Ebony and Padouk to name a few don't require finishes and feel great raw. 

 

[dNA]

While getting an exotic neck that doesn't need finishing sounds appealing, am I losing any options in terms of tone, and is it going to be more costly? If not, what would you suggest for a fairly bright neck wood?
I mean honestly i've got no problem with standard gloss necks, though i know unfinished or oiled necks seem to popular with Warmoths and Carvins (and likely other made-to-order varieties.) but it's one of those "if it aint broke, don't fix it" type deals. The right sound is definitely first priority, and then a nice aesthetic does follow. I don't really like the striking brightness of a maple neck, particularly on a dark brown wood, but if it sounds right then i'm open to the idea. A walnut neck does sound like an appealing option.

 

[Kublai]

You will have no probs with finished necks until you play a bare wood neck. It really is that good.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

An unfinished exotic isn't necessarily more costly.  The pricing guide is on the site.  An all Ebony or all Brazilian Rosewood neck will be very costly, but a Maple or Mahogany neck with Warmoth finish wil cost more than most unfinished exotics.  They have their little tone meter with the neck wood description on the main site.  Maple is just about the brightest but Wenge and Walnut are pretty bright too.  As for finish effecting the tone, that's an ongoing debate with bodies about which finish sounds best.  The best sounding finishes are said to be thinner and let the wood breath.  Besides adding an aesthetic factor, a finish is there to protect.  The finishes that protect the best are the thickest and hardest, and also sound the worst.  A finish is necessary for Maple, so you pretty much have a necessary evil there and choose one that effects it the least, so IMO, the best finish is no finish.  In other words, no finish sounds good.

 

[dNA]

An unfinished exotic isn't necessarily more costly.  The pricing guide is on the site.  An all Ebony or all Brazilian Rosewood neck will be very costly, but a Maple or Mahogany neck with Warmoth finish wil cost more than most unfinished exotics.  They have their little tone meter with the neck wood description on the main site.  Maple is just about the brightest but Wenge and Walnut are pretty bright too.  As for finish effecting the tone, that's an ongoing debate with bodies about which finish sounds best.  The best sounding finishes are said to be thinner and let the wood breath.  Besides adding an aesthetic factor, a finish is there to protect.  The finishes that protect the best are the thickest and hardest, and also sound the worst.  A finish is necessary for Maple, so you pretty much have a necessary evil there and choose one that effects it the least, so IMO, the best finish is no finish.  In other words, no finish sounds good.

I get that logic, but I don't really buy it. I can't think of a single production guitar model that has an unfinished neck - and I know they do that for construction reasons more than anything else. But that being said, there are tons and tons of amazing sounding guitars with finished necks out there, so again - If it aint broke, don't fix it. Though I'd love to just play one to see if I do notice a difference. but that's for down the road, when i have money to be addicted.

So an all walnut neck would be aight? I dunno, i feel like i'm kind of robbing myself of something if i get a guitar that's made of all the same wood. haha. Is there something to be said for the tonal qualities of mix-n-matching wood? like. it's not gonna be kinda monotone sounding or something because there's no variation in the way it resonates?
that's probably all crazy talk. I have to look at the guide again. Also, how much consideration should I give to fretboard wood?

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I get that logic, but I don't really buy it. I can't think of a single production guitar model that has an unfinished neck - and I know they do that for construction reasons more than anything else. But that being said, there are tons and tons of amazing sounding guitars with finished necks out there, so again - If it aint broke, don't fix it. Though I'd love to just play one to see if I do notice a difference. but that's for down the road, when i have money to be addicted.

There's plenty with unfinished fretboards. Warmoth is just extending the philosophy to the entire neck.  I can't think of any production guitars either, but most of them I know of have Mahogany and Maple necks which would require a finish anyway.  EBMM has made some Rosewood neck'd models, but I don't know if they are finished.  If this is your 1st Warmoth, go with what's familiar and makes sense.  Most members that get a 1st, at the very least have plans for a 2nd and 3rd.  Hang around on the forum a little longer and keep reading and posting, and notice the unfinised exotic pattern starting to form.

So an all walnut neck would be aight? I dunno, i feel like i'm kind of robbing myself of something if i get a guitar that's made of all the same wood.

Most Gibsons and PRSs have the neck and body made of the same wood (Mahogany).  Again, the Walnut was a suggestion but not the only option.  It's your build.

 

[dNA]

thanks bro. appreciate the input. I guess I'll do some more homework. thinking walnut neck and something else for the fingerboard for a nice look.

i'm so excited

 

[Kublai]

Depending on the body, a padouk neck may look sharp with it. I have a padouk, a canary, 2 wenges (one is a bass) and an indian rosewood neck. The padouk is my fav. Feels great. I know there are other factors influencing the tone, but the guitar with the padouk neck sounds awesome too. Not muddy at all, and gets a really woody sound on my SD Jazz in the neck position.