Neck finish and dressing

[Dreamert]

Hi folks,

I'm about to get my new neck from Warmoth (DUH!) and I'd like to know how 'complete' they are when you receive them.

Anything left to do on them or are they ready to play? I think I read the varnish finish needs to be sanded or filed from the frets? Any crowning, dressing jobs to do on the frets or is it done at Warmoth before shipping?

I'd like to plan ahead of time with my local luthier...

Thank you.

 

[AutoBat]

If you ordered a Maple/Maple neck, AND had W finish it, there will be finish on the frets.  This can either be scraped off carefully, or it will come off with play.
If you ordered it with a nut, it will be cut on the tall side, and quite playable, but not perfect.
Frets are generally quite good, but that being said, officially they will need a comprehensive fret job to be considered by some to be complete.

Tuner pilot holes will need to be drilled, if those are applicable to the tunining machines that you are using.

And naturally the trussrod will need to be adjusted to suit your string tension.


There are a number of us that have never done anything aside from trussrod adjustment.  I drilled my tuner pilot holes, installed them, then hooked it to the neck and am happy where it is presently.
These products are wood, so experiences can vary quite a bit even amongst same wood, same constructions.

Please post pics when you get your new neck.  We love to see new hardware!

 

[NovasScootYa]

If the neck you order has finish applied I suggest removing the finish from the frets. When scraping frets the board can be scratched if you do not mask or use a metal protector from Stewmac or make your own from an aluminum can. If you use masking tape be sure it's not overly sticky because it can leave behind a stubborn residue.
The reason I do not use maple fret boards is having to scrape the finish off the frets. The reason I do my own finishing is I prefer to set up and fully tweak my instruments over time then disassemble and apply the finish, makes a clean looking finished product.
Of all the Warmoth necks I prefer their pro-construction with stainless fretwire. I'd use nickel silver if it lasts as long but it does not and besides it's $20.00 less. I'd use Vintage Modern construction but it is not as stable during weather change. The drawback with proconstruction is the amount of wood removed for the double truss-rod so IMO necks beefier than standard thin are recommended as are CBS headstocks because the more wood in the neck the better the tone...providing everything thing else is correct.
Contrary to popular belief, Do Not file-level the frets on a new neck, they do not need it and chances are very good the neck will be ruined. Generally after a new neck has been played for awhile it settles and a few frets or areas on a few frets will shift. At that point any high frets or a high spot on a fret are located with a Stewmac fret rocker and the fret is reseated or a group is leveled. The frets can be polished using proper tools. I use 6000 to 8000 grit Micro Mesh wrapped around a Stewmac off set diamond fret file.
The other area of concern depending on fret height are the fret ends. A 6230 wire will need little attention whereas 6105 wire will need more. I roll the boards on all my instruments using a fret beveling tool and use proper files to dress the fret ends, etc. I do not overly roll edges from the 12th to 22nd frets because the E strings are prone to slide off the board when using a bridge with 2 7/32" vintage string spacing. If you work the fret ends and roll a pre finished maple board you'll have to reapply finish along the edges, best to use a French polish method using whatever coating was applied. The clear satin is easiest to blend. There are hurdles in setting up a neck but if done correctly it's well worth it.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I like the Stainless frets as well.  They are darn durable.  As far as leveling and the whole nine there, if you have the action set really low, it will be more noticeable.  I have never needed any work done because of the way I prefer my guitars set up.  I have read of maybe two that had a fret that needed work to be playable.  After following the board for three and a half years, two seems like a very small number.  I do bevel the ends of the frets, I really like the feel better with them beveled and the edges rolled a small amount.  The other stuff is pretty standard.  They are in good shape when they arrive, but no one can predict everything.  They leave you adjustment space.
Patrick

 

[scartozi]

I installed and played my new neck for about 2 months before taking it in for a check up. Didn't need any leveling and it plays great. The only thing I did was purchase a fret-end dressing file from Stewart McDonald. The 6100 frets were a little sharp, not cutting your hand sharp but sharper than I like. After using the file to round the sharp ends it's now perfect.

 

[Cagey]

I installed and played my new neck for about 2 months before taking it in for a check up. Didn't need any leveling and it plays great. The only thing I did was purchase a fret-end dressing file from Stewart McDonald. The 6100 frets were a little sharp, not cutting your hand sharp but sharper than I like. After using the file to round the sharp ends it's now perfect.

That's a good way to do it. Here are some pics of the 6100 SS frets that came on the ebony over bubinga neck I just got a few days ago... (click images to enlarge)

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As you can see, the fret ends will eventually need some softening and the 'board needs a minor roll, but they're fine as they are now. It'll be playable without injury for a month or two while everything settles in.

 

[Dreamert]

That's very good feedback, thanks a lot. I'll set everything up first and see how it turns out in a few months from now.

Thanks for the tips !

 

[jackthehack]

Between my own builds and doing upgrades for others, I've bought about 30 Warmoth guitar and bass necks in the last 4 years or so. The only rework I've had to do on stock necks to set them up is if you have the nut installed by Warmoth, the grooves seem to be cut for .009/.010 string sets. As that is what I use, no prob, but when upgrading for others that use heavier/custom string sets you need to do a little nut filing.

 

[-CB-]

Any crowning, dressing jobs to do on the frets or is it done at Warmoth before shipping?

I know a guy who crowned his youngest kid for dressing in a halter and short shorts, all because he was tired of fretting about it. 
His son was not amused, and moved out shortly thereafter.

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! You gotta love trailer trash <grin>

 

[Dreamert]

Between my own builds and doing upgrades for others, I've bought about 30 Warmoth guitar and bass necks in the last 4 years or so. The only rework I've had to do on stock necks to set them up is if you have the nut installed by Warmoth, the grooves seem to be cut for .009/.010 string sets. As that is what I use, no prob, but when upgrading for others that use heavier/custom string sets you need to do a little nut filing.

Ok, mine will be set up with .10 gauge strings, I'll get that checked up as I'm not geared up for the job, those files are pretty expensive for one or two guitars  :-\