Natural Ash Finish options ...

[strat.tenor]

Hi ...

I have a natural ash strat body coming from Warmoth.  I'm considering finishing it myself (funds are tight at the moment, and, yunno, its a skill I can use on future projects).  So, I know about grain and wood filler.  I bought some, used it on test samples, and failed miserably.  I'm not a very good spackler, either, which I think is the same skill.  I always either don't put on an even swipe (leaving a gap in the middle of a section), or I put on way too much, leading to endless sanding and uneven surfaces on the edges of the filled section.  I also never seem to know when I've sanded it all off, versus sanding enough off.  I think it's a little bit like singing Springsteen songs:  I'm just not good at it.

Given this, what is the downside of putting poly on with no grain filler?  I know it will require more coats.  I can live with that.  I have time.  But I'm worried about other factors - like, but not limited to - bubbling through the finish, eventual cracking of the finish.  Are time and "coats" the only downside of not using grain filler?

Also, since Warmoth doesn't charge more to finish Ash, does anyone know if they actually use filler?  Or do they just poly it with more coats?


TIA.

 

[Keyser Soze]

Ash has serious grain, filling it all with finish will be incredible difficult and time consuming.  Not to mention wasteful (you will end up sanding off umpteen layers of finish in the process.)

I do not know this for a fact but i seriously doubt Warmoth fills grain using finish - it is just too wasteful and time consuming.  Also, finish has a tendency to continue to shrink into unfilled grain, what looks like glass this year can be heavily dimpled next year.  Professional wood finishers use grain filler, it is a basic skill that saves time, effort, and money compared to any other approach.

You just need to work on your technique. It's not black magic, if you are getting bad results you need to re-examine your technique and follow the recommended procedure more closely.  Do not take shortcuts and do not cheat.  Most importantly do not try to fill the grain completely in one application, accept the fact that two (even three) applications may be necessary to create a smooth surface.  Take your time and get it right.  Or at least get it close.  even if the grain is only partially filled you are still that far ahead when it comes time to build the finish.

Grain fillers exist to make life easier.  If there was an easier way everyone would do it.

 

[-CB-]

I've used filler, and also used good old super glue on ash.  They both came out great.  The filler took 4 applications to get smooth.  The superglue took 1-1/2 applications (one, plus spot refills).

The trick to grain filler is to get it on THIN as you can you cant go too thin.  I use one of those "sample" credit cards as a wiper, and it works great.  Just dip the card and wipe it all over till its thin as possible.  Keep going till its done and no thickness is present.  Let dry two days, sand back to wood.  Repeat.  On ash, think in terms of 4 applications of filler, or even 5.  Then when its done, let it dry a few days and sand it back with fine paper, like 320grit followed by 400grit.  You almost want that wood to shine on its own.  With superglue, when you sand it back with 320, then 400, you can go to 800 and it WILL shine.

 

[strat.tenor]

Well, seeing as how I am not good at this, that I have a bass guitar that is over 25 years old, how little money is involved here amortized over that time, and the potential for how beautiful this guitar could turn out to be; I have decided to let Warmoth apply the finish to my body.  Thanks for your responses.  I hope to apply finish to a maple neck, and let that be my inauguration back into guitar finishing.  Then perhaps later I'll get a less expensive piece of ash and try to finish it.  But this one's gonna be a keeper.  I'm going to leave it to the experts.

 

[-CB-]

Thats always a good choice!