My first pedal board...

[BigSteve22]

Quick update:

I decided to try using offset couplers to save a few millimeters between pedals. To do that, I had to break down the existing set up, which meant accessing the inside. Here's a picture of the internals of the board. Power supply and brick are held in place with double stick tape. Inlet is wired with insulated lugs and 16AWG stranded, leading to an inline female connector. Ain't exactly UL, but it's safe and it works.

The present set up. Four different manufacturers meant four different jack heights on the pedals. "Z" couplers to the rescue! Even needed two different types due to the large height difference between the tiny TC Mini Corona and the huge Boss NS-2.

Couplers did reduce the overall length taken up by the pedals by about 3/4". Not much, but noticeable. I also added a couple of screws to secure the halves of the top deck. In order to  facilitate changes, I had originally planned that the deck would just be held in place by the weight of the pedals, but there was too much movement. Still have to decide on a method of securing the pedals to the deck. I have Velcro, just looking around to see if there's a better solution. The learning curve continues....

 

[aarontunes]

Looks great!


How are you attaching the pedals to the board? Edit: Oh...never mind. Just saw the above post.  :icon_thumright:


If you come up with a better solution that velcro, prepare to make a bajillion dollars.

 

[mayfly]

I personally just screwed them down with plumbing strapping.  Screwed the strapping to the underside of the pedal using the original screws and holes, then screwed the strapping to the top of the board.

Not real pretty but the pedals don't go anywhere.

 

[BigSteve22]

I personally just screwed them down with plumbing strapping.  Screwed the strapping to the underside of the pedal using the original screws and holes, then screwed the strapping to the top of the board.

Not real pretty but the pedals don't go anywhere.

That's actually pretty close to one idea I was looking at. If I made aluminum plates and drilled holes to match the cases, I could screw the plates to the deck. Maybe need one plate design for each brand/size pedal. Still thinking, appreciate your input.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

While not entirely different from velcro, the 3M Dual Lock "Reclosable Fastener" is a far superior version of it. I used it on my board and have been very impressed. Both sides are interlocking plastic stems, no "fuzz". Surprisingly robust. Even holds my Helix securely in place with no slop. Worth a consideration!

I used the 250 stems-per-inch 2" wide on the board and the 170 stems-per-inch 1" wide on the pedals.
https://www.itapestore.com/3m-dual-lock-sj3540-by-the-yard.html
https://www.itapestore.com/3m-dual-lock-sj3542-by-the-yard.html

 

[Cagey]

I pulled the bottom panels off the MFC and expression pedals and used them as templates to drill holes in the panel they're all mounted on to match the devices the bottoms mated to. Went to the local hardware and got replacement screws that matched the original bottom attachment screws but were 1/4" longer. Left the bottoms off everything, and just screwed through the mounting panel into the devices. Those things are going nowhere.

The two Boss FS-6 pedals don't have bottom panels, but they're pretty lightweight so I simply mounted with velcro. Hate it. Every time I move the thing, the footswitches separate from the board. Supposed to be "industrial strength" velcro, but I don't know what industry they tested it in. I have to be able to remove those anyway, since they require batteries, so I think for my next trick I'm gong to get some snaps and rivet one side to the mounting board and the other to some leather strips and strap 'em down that way.

 

[BigSteve22]

While not entirely different from velcro, the 3M Dual Lock "Reclosable Fastener" is a far superior version of it. I used it on my board and have been very impressed. Both sides are interlocking plastic stems, no "fuzz". Surprisingly robust. Even holds my Helix securely in place with no slop. Worth a consideration!

I used the 250 stems-per-inch 2" wide on the board and the 170 stems-per-inch 1" wide on the pedals.
https://www.itapestore.com/3m-dual-lock-sj3540-by-the-yard.html
https://www.itapestore.com/3m-dual-lock-sj3542-by-the-yard.html

That is some interesting looking stuff. I've seen it, but hadn't looked into it before. Looks good, but the price, HOLY CRIPES! The 2", 250 hook stuff, is $19 a yard, but that's unfastened, so you really only get 18" fastened length. That's over $1 an inch! All I can say is: At that price, it BETTER be great stuff! 

Still ,worth considering, thanks!

 

[BigSteve22]

Nice work there Kevin! I'm trying to stay with a wooden deck, but that's a great idea. If I do go metal, that's definitely an option to consider.

 

[Cagey]

You could do the same thing with wood, although the top panel probably shouldn't be any thicker than a 1/4" or so. But, I think that would be plenty. For the larger version you have planned, 1/4" ply with maybe a reinforcement support in the center or on thirds.

The panel in mine is what they call "architectural" or "inset" panel. It's 1/4" thick aluminum/plexiglass/aluminum sandwich used in place of glass or other materials on building exteriors, usually to hide structural details or mechanicals like HVAC systems from external view.

 

[stratamania]

For those looking for a Velcro alternative you might want to check out Pedalboots. http://www.pedalboots.com/

Possibly not the cheapest option.

 

[rgand]

I pulled the bottom panels off the MFC and expression pedals and used them as templates to drill holes in the panel they're all mounted on to match the devices the bottoms mated to. Went to the local hardware and got replacement screws that matched the original bottom attachment screws but were 1/4" longer. Left the bottoms off everything, and just screwed through the mounting panel into the devices. Those things are going nowhere.

The two Boss FS-6 pedals don't have bottom panels, but they're pretty lightweight so I simply mounted with velcro. Hate it. Every time I move the thing, the footswitches separate from the board. Supposed to be "industrial strength" velcro, but I don't know what industry they tested it in. I have to be able to remove those anyway, since they require batteries, so I think for my next trick I'm gong to get some snaps and rivet one side to the mounting board and the other to some leather strips and strap 'em down that way.

Good ideas, Kevin. You may want to consider thin conveyor belting material instead of leather for your snaps. It would never stretch and would outlast leather if it's being disconnected and re-connected much.

Alternately, what about an aluminum L-bracket and just screw them on with something like Tinnerman nuts?

 

[Cagey]

Those are both good ideas. I think the L bracket solution would be cleaner. Maybe use knurled head fasteners like you see on some computer panels rather than screws so it can be taken apart easily by hand.

 

[rgand]

Those are both good ideas. I think the L bracket solution would be cleaner. Maybe use knurled head fasteners like you see on some computer panels rather than screws so it can be taken apart easily by hand.

This is a good idea. It would be easy if you wanted to remove or switch one out.

 

[rgand]

Instead of L-brackets, you could just make a plate to span the bottom and stick out on each end for the thumbscrews to go through.

 

[Cagey]

That's even better! Plus, even I can make a plate. Have to look at the switches again and see what's involved in replacing batteries. Hate having to worry about those, but there's no power on board. Could use switches that don't need power, but I kinda like having the little indicator lights on them.

 

[rgand]

That's even better! Plus, even I can make a plate. Have to look at the switches again and see what's involved in replacing batteries. Hate having to worry about those, but there's no power on board. Could use switches that don't need power, but I kinda like having the little indicator lights on them.

Now you're talking. :icon_thumright:

 

[pabloman]

There's always the bicycle chain link method. You just screw one eyelet to the bottom plate of the pedal in each corner then put a screw through the other eyelet into the pedalboard. There's info all over the net about it. I'm pretty sure I've even seen them sold just for this purpose.

 

[Cagey]

I could see that working. Use the flat part of a master link that looks kinda like a double-wide washer...

Right shape and size, and high-strength. Have to find somewhere to buy just that part, though. Buying master links to cull the closing sides for an alternative use could get expensive in a hurry.

 

[stratamania]

Couldn't you just get a chain and separate some links with a chain tool or similar to obtain a few parts?

 

[Cagey]

I think it depends on the chain. Some of them are made in such a way that the links can be disassembled so you can change their length, like a watchband, but most of the bike chains I've seen are sized to fit and don't come apart except at the master link.