For a contrary view:
I don't see any particular reason why using an extra-thick fingerboard to make up for extra-thin neckmeat, from a "will it work" perspective, at least if you're rear-routing it for an old-fashioned Fender-style truss rod installation. If you want a modern-construction approach, with the truss rod installed from the front instead of the rear, you may be at risk of routing through the shaft stock to get the correct depth, or you'll need to rout a shallow truss rod channel in both the fingerboard and the shaft, which is a frickin' nightmare to contemplate, at least for me. But I see you plan to come in from the back, so at least that problem won't accrue. Anyway:
The way I see it, there are tons of plans and videos and whatnot online that assume starting with lumber in standard dimensions. Replicating the process with non-standard dimensions will add a layer of complexity that a comparative n00b to neck-making might find frustrating. Standard-dimensioned maple lumber for the shaft is cheap and widely available. You can take your thickish chunk of padouk and resaw using a bandsaw or table saw to dimensions that will provide two standard-sized fingerboard blanks, and you can either post the extra on eBay, give it away, or make a second neck to take into account errors and whatnot that you make on the first one.
Then again, maybe I'm overthinking it. Plane the maple smooth and the padouk smooth, glue the padouk on the maple, thickness the resulting sandwich, and get busy. I am, after all, but another in an endless line of internet opinions that don't actually have to face your problem.
Have fun, whatever else you decide. Looks like a fun project, to me!