Mahogony Deluxe First build hoping for the best

[jackthehack]

I'm not familiar with that product, but would suggest following directions first time using it. Tonar suggests shooting a lacquer washcoat, which essentially performs the same purposes before each fill of the Jasco oil based filler. Based on my limited experience using the Jasco filler on one project, I seriously doubt the McFadden will really dry in 24 hours.

You haven't read that step on many posts here as most of us use the StewMac water based grain filler which doesn't  require such

 

[jpowers123456]

Shot the vinyl sealer and have applied first coat of black grain filler.  Tried to post photos but am receiving a network error message from the Warmoth site telling me to contact an administrator.  Any body know what that is all about?

 

[jpowers123456]

The grain filler seemed to go on fairly easily, it skinned up pretty quick and I removed the excess with a couple of pieces of burlap. I am going to folow the directions on the can and apply vinyl sealer between coats of grain filler to see how that works, after a bit sanding I suppose.  Is thare any concern about the filler in some of the predrilled holes on the body?  I was able to clear out most of the bigger holes with a strip of burlap but the bridgeand through body holed are another story.  Also, what suggestions does anyone have about the best way to either hold or suspend the neck for spraynig?  The fake neck works great for the body but the neck is a bit more of a trick.

 

[jpowers123456]

Well, the build is going fairly well, had a few problems with the toner and sanding through the finish on the head stock, but it is coming together nicely now.  It was so helpful to read all of the info here.  I have been getting some conflicting advice from a finsh carpenter I know and the mohawk salesman at the local paint store.  I am in the process of shooting the build up and finish coats of lacquer.  I occasionally get a run or sag and since I am using spray cans it has been hard to get good wet coats where this problem doesn't occur. First, any advice on how to get quality coats with the spray cans?  Second, is it best to sand between each coat to remove these imperfactions or is it best to keep spraying and wait for the final sanding.  In addition, the finish carpenter insists I should be sanding with the grain in all cases to include when I am removing imperfactions.  Is that good advice or not because if the run or sag runs with the grain it seems like it would be leveled easier with sanding against the imperfection?

 

[jackthehack]

Necks are kinda tricky due to curved surfaces; after masking off the fretboard, I just hold the neck in my hand by the butt to spray it; when all but the butt end is done with that coat I lay it flat fingerboard side down and spray the butt. Once the toner/lacquer coat is mostly dry I hang it up with a bent coat hanger through the tuner holes to finish drying/curing.

One of the main tricks to using spray cans is NOT to try to get "good wet coats", that's an invitation to runs/sags. You need to hold the can an appropriate distance away from what you are spraying and apply many more very light coats to get a good result, rather than trying to lay down a thicker wet coat. You certainly don't need to sand between every coat; maybe every 4 coats or so, or wait until done and level sand, but if you do have some significant runs/sags it may be easier to try to get most of that sanded back as it occurs. Keep in mind that a good run/sag may take another day or two to completely dry/cure enough to sand on, another reason not to be applying the heavier coats.

 

[jpowers123456]

That is real helpful, I was doing the lighter coats with much success, then got the advice to get wet coats and have been having problems with runs and sags ever since. What about the sanding direction to remove the flaws?  I have been using a gray, extra fine, scotchguard pad with much success following my sand through.  I have too heavy of a hand for the 320 grit sandpaper and like the safety of the scotch guard pad since it removes finish real slow.  Also, what about the sanding direction of the  wet sanding, I did one go around of the wet sanding and decided to do more top coats as the finsish did not look deep enough or glossy enough and attributed that to the thickness of the coats.

 

[jackthehack]

Like I said, I wouldn't do any sanding until after each 4 coats or so. At that point I don't really think it makes much difference if you sand in the direction of the grain or not, I tend to just out of habit. Occasionally you will NEED to sand cross grain to work out a drip/run. Don't know exactly which Scotch pads you are referring to; but I usually use the 3M #320 sanding sponges/pads to do initial sand back/leveling of lacquer coats. They are more expensive than using sandpaper, but work extremely well.

 

[jpowers123456]

Photo of finish project so far.

 

[jpowers123456]

Another photo showing the contours.

 

[jpowers123456]

One more showing front.  This photo looks a little redder than in person. First two photos are a better representstion fo the color.

 

[Nando Vallart]

Looks good, although there is some parts that looks different, less brilliant... perhaps it's the flash  :help:

 

[jpowers123456]

Well, I am actually still working on the finsish.  It has not yet had final sand and polish.  I have been having some difficulty getting a final spray coat with the rattle cans that I feel is adequate and ready for sand and buff. I did one sand and buff that resulted in fair results but definetly not what I was hoping for, so back to spraying again.

 

[jackthehack]

That's looking pretty damn good, but once you've got the final spray coats on, you really need to let it sit and cure for a week or two before doing final wet sanding/polishing

 

[jpowers123456]

Will do, thanks Jack, you have been super helpful. Warmoth should put you on the payroll as much asistance as you CB and Tonar dish out here.

 

[jackthehack]

It can be hard to wait. On several builds I've just gone ahead and done final assembly and took them back apart 6-8 weeks later to finish them up. In a couple of cases I wound up getting additional shrinkage into what had appeared to be completely filled pores that required some additional touch up work.

 

[jpowers123456]

Should the final coat, prior to wet sand and buffing, have the appearance of a smooth glass like finish? I notice that with the rattle can spraying that it seems nearly imposible to get a totally even  and smooth glossy finish without going too heavy, resulting in a run or sag.