Lowering action on a locking nut

[gdgross]

Hey guys -

Got a partscaster with a floyd and a locking nut, finally getting it assembled and set up. The actions a bit high at the nut though. There aren't any shims.

Can I just take the nut off and file it down on the back side? Or would it be better to sand the neck shelf down?  This is a warmoth neck btw.

I feel a little more confident in my ability to keep the nut flat than my ability to keep the shelf flat...

Thanks!
Geoff

 

[Cagey]

Either way is risky. But, a replacement nut is dramatically less expensive than a replacement neck if you wreck it, so...

 

[gdgross]

Thanks Cagey, that's where I'm leaning. If i take off to much I guess I can always shim it back...lots of floyd guitars use shims on the nut, although I'd rather avoid it if possible.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

I'll file the shelf down. YMMV.

 

[DangerousR6]

Hey guys -

Got a partscaster with a floyd and a locking nut, finally getting it assembled and set up. The actions a bit high at the nut though. There aren't any shims.

Can I just take the nut off and file it down on the back side? Or would it be better to sand the neck shelf down?  This is a warmoth neck btw.

I feel a little more confident in my ability to keep the nut flat than my ability to keep the shelf flat...

Thanks!
Geoff

You might want to check the neck pocket first. Sounds as tho it may not have the desired angle in the neck pocket. That is if the Floyd is a non-recessed, if it is recessed Floyd, then an angle isn't needed and I would take the material off the nut not the neck..The nuts are cheap compared to a new neck..

 

[Cagey]

I'll file the shelf down. YMMV.

It's kinda difficult to file a shelf level that way. I mean, it can be done, but it's risky business. Could trash the neck, and there's nowhere to go from there. All you can do is cry. That's why I suggested filing the nut, as did DangerousR6. They're much easier/cheaper to replace.

Another thing to consider is that you may not want the action too close on a Floyd-equipped guitar. You can dive those things until the strings are practically hanging off the neck, so you need some room to let them vibrate.

 

[ORCRiST]

I would say between the neck and the nut, ALWAYS file the nut.  They're cheap and replaceable.  If you take off too much, you can always add a shim - if not, just buy a new one.

Removing wood from one of (if not the) weakest part of the neck is never a good idea, and under the right conditions could contribute to breaking the headstock off the neck.

:sad:

 

[fretless]

I just went through this with a MIM strat , I wanted slightly wider string spacing . The neck came stock with a R2 , I put on a R9 which had the wider spacing and same radius but also was a wee lower at the nut . It fit perfectly .

 

[gdgross]

Well I ended up sanding the back of the nut. It was pretty easy, and it let me set the action good enough to play at the guitar at a gig last night.

It's not perfect yet, but it's much better than before. I'll need to do a real setup before I make any further judgements; I'll also let the guitar sit and a settle in for a bit while I'm travelling this week and next anyway.

Just curious, those who thought sanding the neck was the better option - just because wood is easier to sand?  What's the rationale behind that?  As it turns out, sanding the nut was pretty easy. I just started with some 220 grit on a flat table and moved the nut around in circles with some good pressure. Went through three sheets, and just for god measure switched to some finer grit I had laying around to shine it up a bit, although I'm sure it makes no difference except for a cooler shiny look.