Just ordered a maple neck with a maple fretboard - do I clearcoat the frets?

[vanstry]

Okay, I've only dealt with rosewood before and usually I use Teak oil on them. Not so sure I want to use that on Maple however. I've also heard that if you don't protect maple fretboards, they get nasty after a while.

The neck I ordered is unfinished, so do I just spray the whole thing with the satin clear coat that I use on the rest of the neck? Fretboard and neck? From what I've seen on the warmoth site, that seems to be what's required - spray the whole thing.

And if I do spray the fretboard, what's the best way to clean off the frets once it's dried?

Sorry if this has been written elsewhere, but I couldn't find it. Thanks.

 

[stratamania]

Well, you definitely do not want to put Teak oil on maple. (Its use on rosewood is debatable and certainly avoid overuse)

Most maple boards are finished in some way and the main manufacturers and Warmoth just spray directly over the frets. Some smaller manufacturers finish and then clean up the fret slots and then install frets.

If you spray directly over the board, frets and all and you want to clean them up you have some options. Let the wear and tear of playing do the job or clean them off by scoring around the sides at the bottom of the fret with a sharp blade such as an Xacto, then cut around the ends and then you should be able to lift up the lacquer.

 

[vanstry]

I'm starting to think that maybe I'll just use Tru-oil on the whole thing. I've used it on gun stocks in the past, so I've got experience with it.

Thanks for the reply!

 

[Cagey]

While finishing Maple necks will keep them from getting too yucky, that's not its primary purpose. It's intended to seal them against the environment. Maple sometimes has a nasty tendency to warp/twist in response to ambient humidity, which is undesirable in a piece you want to maintain close tolerances on.

Because of that, oil finishes aren't the best choice. They're not a hard finish, so they don't really seal, per se. You're much better off with lacquer or polyurethane.

Shoot the whole thing; everybody does. Getting the finish off the frets isn't as tough as it might sound. You want the finish well-cured, so you have to wait a few weeks before doing it, but you need to wait that long before buffing it out anyway, so it's no big deal. If you do it before you ever string it up, it's a lot easier as there will likely be no breaks in the finish. A razor or Exacto knife will shave each fret off with usually only 3 swipes, once across the top and each side of the fret. It's a good idea to tape the neck off so you don't inadvertently cut the fretboard finish. Also, while the thing is taped off, it's a good opportunity to level/crown/dress/polish the frets.

 

[stratamania]

Tru-oil is a drying varnish that contains linseed oil. No reason not to use it if that is what someone prefers.

 

[Cagey]

I know, and you're right. And watercolors are pigments suspended in water. And epoxy is a cross-linked catalyzed formulation. And latex is an acrylic polymer emulsion. No reason not to use any of them if that's what someone prefers. I'm just presenting information. Not all finishes are suitable for all applications.

The drying oils used to be used extensively in instrument (and other wood tool) building back in prehistoric times due to a lack of choice or an unwillingness to fight with lacquer. They're still used occasionally, and for the same reasons, but they're not optimal. That's why if someone has a choice, I recommend against using them. Of course, not everybody has a choice, and there are also those who prefer the look/feel of that type of finish. Kinda like the Amish with their oxen and horses  :icon_biggrin: