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jack I need some input on mahogany

DangerousR6

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I've read several threads about finishing mahogany, and pretty much all of them you suggest Watco Danish oil. Will this be sufficiant on a neck as well, as I don't want to mess with grain fillers and all that. I want the feel of the natural wood, and I don't want to put a  glossy finish on it. Also could a clear satin be sprayed over the danish oil, or would that not be necessary?
:dontknow:
Oh and the neck is mahogany with a ziricote board.......
 
I don't actually recommend WATCO Danish Oil in every instance, just in a couple where they wanted to dupe a "natural oil finish" from an OEM or were scared to shoot lacquer. WATCO won't cut it for warranty purposes as far as Warmoth goes, and bare mahogany will suck up moisture probably as much or more than any other neck wood Warmoth sells. The Danish Oil will add a little color/make the grain pop a bit, but on a neck you need to just do a real light application, let it dry for a week or two, and then shoot at least 3-4 coats of satin nitro to completely seal the neck. Most Ace/True Value hardware stores that sell Deft in aerosol cans stock both the gloss and satin.

What do you have mahogany to finish?
 
jackthehack said:
I don't actually recommend WATCO Danish Oil in every instance, just in a couple where they wanted to dupe a "natural oil finish" from an OEM or were scared to shoot lacquer. WATCO won't cut it for warranty purposes as far as Warmoth goes, and bare mahogany will suck up moisture probably as much or more than any other neck wood Warmoth sells. The Danish Oil will add a little color/make the grain pop a bit, but on a neck you need to just do a real light application, let it dry for a week or two, and then shoot at least 3-4 coats of satin nitro to completely seal the neck. Most Ace/True Value hardware stores that sell Deft in aerosol cans stock both the gloss and satin.

What do you have mahogany to finish?
So the Danish oil would be more for coloring than anything else? So I could just buy some Deft satin and seal it with that? How is the finish of the Deft nitro, because I want it to feel as close to natural as possible....

And I didn't understand what you were asking  "What do you have mahogany to finish?"
 
Warmoth will not honor a warranty on a neck not labeled "No Finish required" unless you put a hard finish on it; hence you need to shoot it with some satin nitro or other hard top finish to keep your warranty intact. You CAN use Danish Oil as a top finish on guitar bodies or furniture, but it eventually dries out and needs reapplication.

WATCO Danish Oil comes in either "natural" or with a number of tints. ANY oil polish type product will darken the coloration of the wood a little, so prior to shoot the stain on the neck it would behoove you to apply the same type oil to the neck to get a similar hue as the body.

"And I didn't understand what you were asking  "What do you have mahogany to finish?"

What body/neck in a mahognay flavor were you planning on using the Danish Oil on?
 
jackthehack said:
Warmoth will not honor a warranty on a neck not labeled "No Finish required" unless you put a hard finish on it; hence you need to shoot it with some satin nitro or other hard top finish to keep your warranty intact. You CAN use Danish Oil as a top finish on guitar bodies or furniture, but it eventually dries out and needs reapplication.

WATCO Danish Oil comes in either "natural" or with a number of tints. ANY oil polish type product will darken the coloration of the wood a little, so prior to shoot the stain on the neck it would behoove you to apply the same type oil to the neck to get a similar hue as the body.

"And I didn't understand what you were asking  "What do you have mahogany to finish?"

What body/neck in a mahognay flavor were you planning on using the Danish Oil on?
I'm doing a mahogany tele body with a spalted maple top, the neck is mahogany/ziricote. I don't have the body yet as it is in the process of being made. So I will probably wait until i get the body before I do anything to the neck....
 
The spalted maple should be filled with epoxy by whomever's doing it; it getting a binding?

Using that spalted piece you posted pics of and a ziricote board, I'd fill all the mahogany with black grain filler and shoot the whole thing clear gloss nitro; how does the coloration on the mahogany body/neck match up? Who in Dallas is doing that body for you?
 
jackthehack said:
The spalted maple should be filled with epoxy by whomever's doing it; it getting a binding?

Using that spalted piece you posted pics of and a ziricote board, I'd fill all the mahogany with black grain filler and shoot the whole thing clear gloss nitro; how does the coloration on the mahogany body/neck match up? Who in Dallas is doing that body for you?
No binding, sounds cool but I'd rather have a matte finish on the body too. I have no idea how the coloration is on the mahogany he's using, I haven't seen it yet..I don't think he's even started on it yet. The guy that's making it for me owns Mojo bodies out of Mansfield, TX
 
jackthehack said:
You can Tru-oil most anything made of wood, but it's not going to be a matte finish
Hmmmmmm, then I guess I may just go with your earlier suggestion with a little danish oil and some satin nitro. Probably do the same with the body, depending on the color of the mahogany that the body is made from. The neck is alreay kinda dark with the angled headstock portion being just a tad lighter in color.....Here's a shot of the back of the neck..
2596338584_7abd7fb8d5_o.jpg
 
I may just go down to home Depot and get some small mahogany trim pieces and test it out first.... :dontknow:
 
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