S
swarfrat
Guest
As screwing the bridge on approaches, I realized. I've changed so many variable in building this body - deeper neck pocket, switching from a TOM style bridge to a Fender bent plate (or a wooden equivalent - may still use my saddles and build a wooden bridge that'll look better than the cut down 5-string bridge I currently have) - that I have no earthly idea of how high the bridge needs to be.
This is more than just initial setup, as I need a height that allows room for adjustment in either direction. It's a super short scale (20.75") rubber string bass. So forget steel string 34" rules of thumb based on Fender neck pockets. A similar question that I have more of an idea is how much compensation range do I need? It's always plus (longer), never minus, correct? At least there the Fender style bridge allows for an enormous compensation range, on an instrument that was initially a straight line plastic bridge.
I can guess that it involves a straight edge, but I'm not sure about the relief and action requirements. Anyone have an idea of how to determine how high I need to set a Fender plate bridge?
This is more than just initial setup, as I need a height that allows room for adjustment in either direction. It's a super short scale (20.75") rubber string bass. So forget steel string 34" rules of thumb based on Fender neck pockets. A similar question that I have more of an idea is how much compensation range do I need? It's always plus (longer), never minus, correct? At least there the Fender style bridge allows for an enormous compensation range, on an instrument that was initially a straight line plastic bridge.
I can guess that it involves a straight edge, but I'm not sure about the relief and action requirements. Anyone have an idea of how to determine how high I need to set a Fender plate bridge?
