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Inherited a my first Warmoth Electic I know nothing about though...

wmartin27

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I am hoping for some help from any Warmoth experts. I inherited my first ever Warmoth electric and was hoping to find out some specs or any details about it. I dont plan to sell it but understanding the value would be nice too.

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You can go through Warmoth's site and check out the price they now charge for these parts & that could give you an idea of what you have.
From what I can see:
NECK
Mahogany with maybe Rosewood fretboard. Warmoth Pro design (side adjust trusss rod).
Clay dots?
22 frets.
Fretwire looks thick across the board so maybe 6150 fretwire....
Tuning pegs look like standard Gotohs.
BODY
No idea of body core wood, but top is quilted maple. No idea if it's a thin lamination or the older thicker bookmatched piece of maple.
Cherry burst finish with black backing?
PICKUP
Seymour Duncan Parallel Axis humbucker. There are 3 variants of this design..
HARDWARE
Q Knobs available from AllParts
Bridge looks like a Wilkinson VS100.
Pickguard is Black Pearl design with 1 Bridge Humbucker rout and x-v-t (volume & tone in second & third pot hole placing)


VALUE? Well, being hand assembled, value depends on who did the assembly and how well they did it. A poorly assembled instrument is a bitch to keep in tune. If it has a mile of spaghetti that's been shot out of a shotgun, under the pickguard, instead of well harnessed and professionally loomed cabling for the electrics, it will crackle and carry on.

If this guitar was someone's workhorse, they've kept it in good condition if it's been used for a number of years. Does it come with a case?

But for rough figures, do your sums looking up the parts (assuming that Warmoth did the finish or it was professionally done), and take that as a guide - plus or minus any dings or old pots or socket that may crackle.
 
Wow! Thank you so much! That is easily the most comprehensive and thorough response I think I ever got on a forum. Thank you for taking the time to write all the out and share that much insight with me. I know the quitar was not played much if any at all. It is from Warmoth from what I have been told. I cant believe how custom this guitar is. Just a quick guesstimation you think this is a $2,000 guitar?
 
Re-Pete said:
You can go through Warmoth's site and check out the price they now charge for these parts & that could give you an idea of what you have.
From what I can see:
NECK
Mahogany with maybe Rosewood fretboard. Warmoth Pro design (side adjust trusss rod).
Clay dots?
22 frets.
Fretwire looks thick across the board so maybe 6150 fretwire....
Tuning pegs look like standard Gotohs.
BODY
No idea of body core wood, but top is quilted maple. No idea if it's a thin lamination or the older thicker bookmatched piece of maple.
Cherry burst finish with black backing?
PICKUP
Seymour Duncan Parallel Axis humbucker. There are 3 variants of this design..
HARDWARE
Q Knobs available from AllParts
Bridge looks like a Wilkinson VS100.
Pickguard is Black Pearl design with 1 Bridge Humbucker rout and x-v-t (volume & tone in second & third pot hole placing)


VALUE? Well, being hand assembled, value depends on who did the assembly and how well they did it. A poorly assembled instrument is a bitch to keep in tune. If it has a mile of spaghetti that's been shot out of a shotgun, under the pickguard, instead of well harnessed and professionally loomed cabling for the electrics, it will crackle and carry on.

If this guitar was someone's workhorse, they've kept it in good condition if it's been used for a number of years. Does it come with a case?

But for rough figures, do your sums looking up the parts (assuming that Warmoth did the finish or it was professionally done), and take that as a guide - plus or minus any dings or old pots or socket that may crackle.

Wow! Thank you so much! That is easily the most comprehensive and thorough response I think I ever got on a forum. Thank you for taking the time to write all the out and share that much insight with me. I know the quitar was not played much if any at all. It is from Warmoth from what I have been told. I cant believe how custom this guitar is. Just a quick guesstimation you think this is a $2,000 guitar?
 
A body like that could hit around 600, the bridge and pickups and other hardware may hit around 400 all included (perhaps 500), the neck is approx. 350. A tad under 1500$ would be a better guess.

About the tuners. That's an easy thing. just look at the tuner: the brand is often written on the back.

There are four PATB humbuckers by the way. 1, 2, 3 and a neck version of PATB1.
 
wmartin27 said:
Just a quick guesstimation you think this is a $2,000 guitar?

Depends on how you look at it. I'd guess between $1200-$1500 to build if you do it yourself Add $300-$500 to have it built and set up, depending on who does it. Resale is gonna be about half that.
 
I have never seen Warmoths sell for $2k. They usually go for around $700. At least that's what I have observed.
 
That's been my observation as well. They're a labor of love and lust, not an investment.
 
I'll agree on resale, it's just parts. But something else to consider... if you're asking for insurance purposes, go with the retail pricing.
 
A warmoth on its own? little value. But rebranded by a big name, for instance, Fender Customshop (in their early days) and they sell for insane prices.
 
wmartin27 said:
Wow! Thank you so much! That is easily the most comprehensive and thorough response I think I ever got on a forum. Thank you for taking the time to write all the out and share that much insight with me. I know the quitar was not played much if any at all. It is from Warmoth from what I have been told. I cant believe how custom this guitar is. Just a quick guesstimation you think this is a $2,000 guitar?

No problem. Lots of what I would have said about the value etc. has been covered by others above this post. Is it worth $2000? I very much doubt it. As Cagey said: you'd be likely to only get about half of what was spent in return. But as Swarfat suggested, if the estimate is for insurance purposes, then go for the parts costings.

Very nice gesture of the person who gave that to you. You will find that Warmoths - if designed and assembled by the player - are more indicative of their personality than brand name guitars. They can be customised to match almost exactly what the player wants. So what you have there is a testament of that person's style.

When you change the strings the next time, I'd check under the pickguard to see how the routings are done and how well the electronics are wired up. It may be a standard routed Stratocaster body which will mean the guitar can be customised further with additional pickups, a switch and another pot (knob), if you intend playing it and want to personalise it for yourself.
 
Orpheo said:
There are four PATB humbuckers by the way. 1, 2, 3 and a neck version of PATB1.

Those pickups are interesting looking ones. Have you heard them being played, I'm curious as to what effect the rectangular polepieces have and it's overall texture of tone?
 
The Parallel Axis Trembuckers are unique in looks and tone. They differ from regular pickups by various points. The polepieces, the coil geometry, the inductance and other parts are slightly different. That results in a very clear pickup. They sound all across the board very clear and defined. Some are a bit hotter than others, some are bit thicker than others, but they are all super-clear and defined. I wish I could accept the looks (in a les paul) cause they work tonally extremely well. The string pull seems to be less than with other pickups allowing for even better string separation and boosts the sustain a bit, too. Try 'm, love 'm. The PATB3 is my favorite, closely followed by the PATB1/2 hybrid (but that's one I make).
 
If you are perhaps a major, major detail phreak like our Orpheo (who also specializes in one area), you might hear some difference in cleanliness detail from one. But with muting, overdrive, knob adjustments - any advantage or difference will be overwhelmed easily. Until people start specifically building tones to match up with certain parts in a recorded setting, i.e. developing a repertoire or range of different tones; "tone" as it exists in the abstract is a bizarre, bottomless pit. "Grit" and overdrive are amp characteristics, your pickup better not be distorting! If it is, it's broken. "String separation" and "articulation" are playing techniques. There are probably 50 "PAF" pickups with no more than 10% difference in output of various frequencies, and with a few amp adjustments they will all fulfill exactly the same role. Better to ask why a certain tone is used in a certain context than "what should I buy" - don't tell Seymour Duncan I said so.
 
What's fun is watching people get excited over the fact that a pickup mimics a "PAF" part. All that means is that the part more or less conforms to Seth Lover's patent US2896491. Has nothing to do with "tone", and everything to do with configuration and behavior.

If a pickup has 2 coils wired in series, out of phase, with opposing magnets in each, then it is a PAF-style pickup. That covers just about everything except single coil parts. That Dimebucker Daryl unit? PAF. SD JB? PAF. Retrotron? PAF. Hot Rails? PAF. Basically everything on this page is a PAF design.

The original PAFs were only called that because he applied for the patent in 1955 and it wasn't awarded until 1959, but Gibson made the things anyway in the interim. They simply marked them "P,A,F." (Patent Applied For) rather than with a patent number, as it hadn't been awarded yet.

Beware the marketing weenie.
 
What does the perils of marketing speil and the misuse of the term "PAF', have to do with an enquiry from me to Orpheo about a pickup I knew little about?
Sometimes folks extrapolate too much from a simple conversation.  :doh:  :dontknow:
 
Re-Pete said:
What does the perils of marketing speil and the misuse of the term "PAF', have to do with an enquiry from me to Orpheo about a pickup I knew little about?

Nothing.

Re-Pete said:
Sometimes folks extrapolate too much from a simple conversation.  :doh:  :dontknow:

You're right. You have to follow the thread. Some responses aren't as pertinent to the original post so much as to the responses.
 
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