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I love Strats, But the bolts are always an issue (had professionally re-doweled) already slipping/shifting after 2-weeks!!

J

Jbassfunk

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So I have a Warmoth Boatneck Tele/Ash body that’s NEVER had an issue, it couldn’t be more rock solid.. My Warmoth SRV Strat neck w/Fender 60’s MIM body was wonderful for about 2-years but for the past 6+ months it’s been a constant running headache..

**Either the action is too high, Or it’s unplayable low buzz above the 12th fret. THAT OR it “FishTails”; The headstock dives up or down causing horizontally causing intonation issues, outer strings slipping off the board etc IT SUCKS…

I’m sure most of you will say “hey that tech should fix that or return your money”.. Well I’ve already tried and was rudely told that I broke it & was looking for a free repair!! (My old Tech/Brilliant mentor/Berklee instructor, And renowned builder/Luthier retired 2-yrs ago) He has & would’ve done the job for free while we chatted about music software & Joe Pass chord-melody voice-leading.. 😢😢
 
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Is it possible the Fender MIM Strat Body is excessively soft or wasn’t drilled/threaded great to begin with & that’s lead to the never-ending, bolt stripping & issue’s.???
PLEASE HELP!!!
 
The neck is loose in the pocket? You can shim it, you can dowel and redrill the threads, you can stick a toothpick in there and have it bite down on that, you can convert it to threaded bushings… many ways to skin that cat
 
supertruper1988 said:
This is not true. They should but hands on experience with many Fender bodies, this isnt always the case.
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Indeed, the holes in the body should be large enough for the screws not to thread into the body but pass through it and screw into the neck. What I said is true of how those holes should be, not what sometimes may not be.

If the OPs body has threads in it, they should be drilled out to allow the screws to pass through to allow the neck screws to tighten in the neck properly.
 
I've never had that problem with a Strat ('sorry you are).
They are screws, not "bolts" (even though everyone calls them "bolt-on necks").
The screw holes in the body should be just large enough that the screws don't thread into them, but small enough that the neck cannot shift in the pocket. The neck pocket should be snug but not tight.
 
English is not my native language, but I don't understand what "bolt stripping" is supposed to mean in this context.

I mean, talking about wood screws, it's normally either the screw that is stripped (at the head) or the threading in the wood, that the screw is screwed in, both most likely from excessive force or over-tightening.

But that has nothing to do with the body, there's nothing to be stripped there, the threads are in the neck as my colleagues have already pointed out.

So what exactly is stripped?
 
stratamania said:
Indeed, the holes in the body should be large enough for the screws not to thread into the body but pass through it and screw into the neck. What I said is true of how those holes should be, not what sometimes may not be.

If the OPs body has threads in it, they should be drilled out to allow the screws to pass through to allow the neck screws to tighten in the neck properly.
Click to expand...
If we think of each bolt as a construct each one actually goes through the body, the neck, and stretches on to infinity! I hope this helps the OP!
 
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Tretgeraet said:
English is not my native language, but I don't understand what "bolt stripping" is supposed to mean in this context.
Click to expand...

In this case, it is nothing really to do with bolts as they are really neck screws. It is also nothing to do with the threads of the screws being stripped either. So what some of our US brethren mean is that the bolt which is really a screw has stripped or reduced the grip of thread in the wood. This could happen when taking a neck on and off several times for example.

A solution to the loose holes could then be to either to glue and fill the holes with dowel and redrill the holes for the screws or to drill out the holes to use threaded inserts and machine screws.
 
stratamania said:
A solution to the loose holes could then be to either to glue and fill the holes with dowel and redrill the holes for the screws or to drill out the holes to use threaded inserts and machine screws.
Click to expand...
Yes, but that applies to the holes in the neck, not the ones in the body, right?
 
Jbassfunk said:
So I have a Warmoth Boatneck Tele/Ash body that’s NEVER had an issue, it couldn’t be more rock solid.. My Warmoth SRV Strat neck w/Fender 60’s MIM body was wonderful for about 2-years but for the past 6+ months it’s been a constant running headache..

**Either the action is too high, Or it’s unplayable low buzz above the 12th fret. THAT OR it “FishTails”; The headstock dives up or down causing horizontally causing intonation issues, outer strings slipping off the board etc IT SUCKS…

I’m sure most of you will say “hey that tech should fix that or return your money”.. Well I’ve already tried and was rudely told that I broke it & was looking for a free repair!! (My old Tech/Brilliant mentor/Berklee instructor, And renowned builder/Luthier retired 2-yrs ago) He has & would’ve done the job for free while we chatted about music software & Joe Pass chord-melody voice-leading.. 😢😢
Click to expand...
Make sure the truss rod is not in the disengage/loose range.
 
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