HS Thinline tele with coiltap?

[Don]

Hi everyone  :headbang:
I'm planning to build my second guitar, this time it's going to be a thinline tele.
I would like to have a HS pickup configuration, where Humbucker is in the neck position and the Single coil is in the classic tele bridge plate.
So i've searched the web and i've come up with fender's wiring diagrams for sn HS tele here http://support.fender.com/service_diagrams/telecaster/011-8600A_SISD.pdf which seems easy enough to execute, but then i thought that i could try to add in the circuit a coil tap with a push/pull knob to split the bucker in the neck, and things got complicated.
Can anybody please help me out on this one?
Here's what bugs me:
1 When wiring a H+S, does the circuit go hum-cancelling on automatic on middle position with both pups on, or do i have to do something in order to achieve that?
2 What pots/caps are better suited for a H+S combination? 500ks or 250ks? 0.022s mf or 0.047s?
3 How do i add the coil tap in the circuit? Could anyone make me a diagram?
4 Would the coil tap cause a huge drop in volume? I would like to use vintage output pickups, so the humbucker will be either Grestch style Filtertron, a Fender Widerange or a 59' PAF.
5 Is it possible to have both a coil tap and a RWRP (if necessary) in the same circuit? How would the middle position sound?

 

[line6man]

You need an even number of coils to humcancel. A humbucker and single coil is three coils, so it won't humcancel unless you split to the coil RWRP with respect to the single coil.

Very few pickups are wound to be tappable, but you can always split a humbucker, if it has a four conductor output. For series/single coil switching, simply wire the coils in series and shunt the series link to ground to split.

Pot values and capacitances are personal preference.

Coil taps, coil splits and RWRP have nothing to do with each other. You always want pickups to be RWRP if you want to humcancel. Coil tapping does not change the magnetic or electric polarity. Coil splitting either does or doesn't, depending on which coil you split to, which is why you choose the one that is RWRP from the other pickup, for when you use the two pickups together.

 

[Don]

You need an even number of coils to humcancel. A humbucker and single coil is three coils, so it won't humcancel unless you split to the coil RWRP with respect to the single coil.

Very few pickups are wound to be tappable, but you can always split a humbucker, if it has a four conductor output. For series/single coil switching, simply wire the coils in series and shunt the series link to ground to split.

Pot values and capacitances are personal preference.

Coil taps, coil splits and RWRP have nothing to do with each other. You always want pickups to be RWRP if you want to humcancel. Coil tapping does not change the magnetic or electric polarity. Coil splitting either does or doesn't, depending on which coil you split to, which is why you choose the one that is RWRP from the other pickup, for when you use the two pickups together.

Sorry, i thought that the coil tap/split were the same thing, but i was wrong. I actually meant coil split.
So it's going to be humcanceling in middle position only when the coil is split and RWRP right?

 

[Don]

I've been studying a bit for this build but i really couldn't find a wiring scheme for my type of config. There are some 2 humbucker with coil split schemes, hs or sh wiring schemes but no hs with a coil split controlled by a push/pot.
I've decided to use 500k pots and .022mf caps because the bridge is actually pretty hot for a tele (7.1 ohms).
If i have understood well, using a 3 way switch, you have to connect the coil end wires (usually the white and green wires?) to the switch, but i couldn't understand exactly how.
Could anybody please draw me a diagram with these charachteristics?
Neck position: 4 wires humbucker
Bridge Position: 2 wires single coil
3 way "import" switch: position 1 humbucker
                                  position 2 humbucker + single coil
                                  position 3 single coil
1 vol and 1 tone pots
tone pot is a push/pull pot which spilts the humbucker coil which is RWRP to the single coil (i have no idea how to understand which is which)
jack socket
Thank you and once again i'm sorry to boder you with my ignorance :sad1:  :icon_scratch:

 

[line6man]

I've been studying a bit for this build but i really couldn't find a wiring scheme for my type of config. There are some 2 humbucker with coil split schemes, hs or sh wiring schemes but no hs with a coil split controlled by a push/pot.
I've decided to use 500k pots and .022mf caps because the bridge is actually pretty hot for a tele (7.1 ohms).
If i have understood well, using a 3 way switch, you have to connect the coil end wires (usually the white and green wires?) to the switch, but i couldn't understand exactly how.
Could anybody please draw me a diagram with these charachteristics?
Neck position: 4 wires humbucker
Bridge Position: 2 wires single coil
3 way "import" switch: position 1 humbucker
                                  position 2 humbucker + single coil
                                  position 3 single coil
1 vol and 1 tone pots
tone pot is a push/pull pot which spilts the humbucker coil which is RWRP to the single coil (i have no idea how to understand which is which)
jack socket
Thank you and once again i'm sorry to boder you with my ignorance :sad1:  :icon_scratch:

You mean 7.1k Ohms.
I'll draw a diagram later.

 

[Don]

Yeah sorry, i forgot the k  :laughing7: thank you line6man

 

[Pelagaard]

This should be exactly what you're looking for.

 

[Don]

This should be exactly what you're looking for.

Not exactly, but it comes close. My config has a humbucker in the neck and single in the bridge while the one in the diagram has a more common single in the neck and humbucker in the bridge. Not sure what are the differences when it comes to wire them, if someone points them out for me i could use the sd diagram as well.
The most important thing is that the push/pull pot has to split to the humbucker coil which is RWRP to the bridge single coil, so that if i split in the middle position i get to hum-cancel.

 

[line6man]

This should be exactly what you're looking for.

Not exactly, but it comes close. My config has a humbucker in the neck and single in the bridge while the one in the diagram has a more common single in the neck and humbucker in the bridge. Not sure what are the differences when it comes to wire them, if someone points them out for me i could use the sd diagram as well.
The most important thing is that the push/pull pot has to split to the humbucker coil which is RWRP to the bridge single coil, so that if i split in the middle position i get to hum-cancel.

So just rotate the switch 180 degrees when you install it. Alternatively, swap the black and white wires shown on the switch, in the diagram.

If the coils are not RWRP, swap the north coil's positive-phase lead with the south coil's positive-phase lead, and then swap the north coil's negative-phase lead with the south coil's negative-phase lead.

 

[Don]

How do i know if the coils are RWRP?

 

[line6man]

How do i know if the coils are RWRP?

It takes just as much work to figure it out as to wire one way and rewire the other way if necessary, so it's easier to just do that.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

If you're using Seymour Duncan pickups then a coil-split wired the usual way is hum cancelling with a regular single coil pickup.

A coil split wired the usual way leaves the slug coil active as opposed to the screw coil.

 

[Don]

If you're using Seymour Duncan pickups then a coil-split wired the usual way is hum cancelling with a regular single coil pickup.

A coil split wired the usual way leaves the slug coil active as opposed to the screw coil.

I wish but i'm not  :icon_biggrin: actually this will be a super cheapest of the cheapest project so i can exercise a bit without knowing that if i fail i will destroy a precious work of art as it would be with a Warmoth build.
I'm going to build a full ash body/full maple neck thinline tele with the cheapest hardware and parts i could find. The budget is 200 € (roughly 250 bucks), so i guess that Seymour Duncans are out of my reach for this one  :laughing7:
Both pickups are chinese nonames, so it will be difficult to understand how to wire them properly (for the humbucker at least).
Also since the control plate (yes, it will be a thinline with a classic tele steel control plate and a normal tele pickguard. I'm going to fill and re drill the route for the control plate, hence the "i'm not doing it on a warmoth body" syndrome) come with chinese nonames switches and pots (i've checked them already and they work fine) the 3-way switch doesn't look like the one on the diagrams. It has all the "pins" on one side in a staight line.
Can i wire it the same way, following the same order in the pins?

 

[Don]

WARNING!! CHEESIEST PAINT-MADE DIAGRAM EVER!
WATCH AT YOUR OWN RISK!
:laughing7:
Jokes apart mixing two SD diagrams and studying here and there a bit i managed to draw my own diagram.
It SHOULD be correct.
Right?

 

[Don]

However, given that the diagram is correct, i still have two issues to solve:
1 i have a different switch than the one in the diagram. It's an import switch as i said before; all pins in one line.
2 i have no idea how the humbucker will be wired. Could be that they are wired like SD, but if they're not how can i understand which wire is which?

 

[SustainerPlayer]

1 i have a different switch than the one in the diagram. It's an import switch as i said before; all pins in one line.

Maybe this helps:

 

[SustainerPlayer]

2 i have no idea how the humbucker will be wired. Could be that they are wired like SD, but if they're not how can i understand which wire is which?

Check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UfxQBhqen8

 

[Don]

2 i have no idea how the humbucker will be wired. Could be that they are wired like SD, but if they're not how can i understand which wire is which?

Check this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UfxQBhqen8

Tremendously interesting video! Thanks for the tip SustainerPlayer!

1 i have a different switch than the one in the diagram. It's an import switch as i said before; all pins in one line.

Maybe this helps:

Mine is a 3-way switch. Those in the drawing are 5-way.

 

[SustainerPlayer]

Mine is a 3-way switch. Those in the drawing are 5-way.

Fixed:

Btw - found them here.

 

[Don]

Mine is a 3-way switch. Those in the drawing are 5-way.

Fixed:

Btw - found them here.

Great! this means that i can just convert it to my switch wiring every wire to the relative pin? Like the wire that was soldered to A1 pin goes to the A1 pin on the other switch?