How about a 35" scale P-Bass neck?


How about a 35" scale direct replacement 4- string P-Bass neck that fits in the stock pocket without any modifications to the body?  Any P-Bass could really use that extra inch so that it doesn't sound flabby when D-tuned with .105 RotoSound Swing 66's on it.  I admit my Warmoth solid maple P-Bass stays tighter sounding in Eb than either of my Fenders (both ash) or my Charvel does, but none of them (nor anyone else's) have any snap left to them at all when tuned all the way down to D.  I messed around with different scale schemes in AutoCad and a 35" scale can work with the stock heel and pocket if a 21st fret is added.  The only drawback I found so far is that a 35" P-Bass may not fit in some original cases, but so what?  P-Basses lose all thier punch in D tuning.  Tuning the 34" scale down low makes the volume drop off of those last two notes really badly.  I have to add so much EQ to try to even it out that my Trace-Elliot's preamp acts like it's having a hernia trying to cope.  A good tight 35" scale would put the snap back in my krackle and pop.

T-Pig, Northern California.

.......when the ground in Oakland rumbles, sometimes it's a Raider game, sometimes it's an earthquake...........the rest of the time, it's me!
Just use a higher string gauge, that's what guitar players have been doing for ages.  My standard tuned guitars use 10's or 11's based on scale length (Fender vs. Gibson), and I one guitar tuned down a step that I keep 13's on, and it sounds great!  The string tension is the same as an E standard tuned Strat, and it retains all the snap and dynamics with a slightly thicker tone to boot!
Yeah, a heaver string helps, but only to a point.  To keep a 34" bass nice and punchy in D, you'd need a .120 E string, which are absolutely inflexible and saw your fingertips and fretwire like a diamond encrusted marble saw.

T-Pig.  Northern California.