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BigSteve22
Hero Member
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Yeah Pete, I had the same question. Is it a 4P5T on two wafers? That's what the diagram looks like.
Maybe he has something like this:
Maybe he has something like this:
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sadman
Guest
it's like Pete's picture.When mounted it's turning upside down and that confused me.
Anyway,thanks your fast respond
ccasion14:
Anyway,thanks your fast respond
ccasion14:
Fat Pete
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sadman said:it's like Pete's picture.When mounted it's turning upside down and that confused me.
Anyway,thanks your fast respond
Ah, gotcha. AFAIK those sort of diagrams/schematics usually show the parts from the back so you see them as you solder them. Wired that way you'd turn the switch clockwise from neck to bridge, which is what I'd expect. As Cagey says, the 2 wafers are the same so it actually wouldn't matter which one you used for each pickup.
Cagey
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It probably goes without saying, but I'll say it anyway just in case: stay consistent. Whichever one you pick to be top or bottom, the wires that go to that wafer have to be the ones for that wafer. The wafers are mechanically/electrically the same, but the wiring to them isn't.
Trotyl
Newbie
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- 7
First post! It sounds like there might be a COTS industrial rotary switch being discussed. If so, I will geek out a bit:
Currently working on a weird pickup configuration for the Warmoth guitar I'm building (why I signed up here... will post about it later) and made a scrappy worksheet (attached). Maybe it'll help others. The "Hum=1, 2, 3, 4" on my sheet refers to the primary coil signal and ground, then the reverse wound ground and signal of a humbucker. There are a lot more options (and hence planning required) for an industrial rotary switch compared to the predetermined two-deck rotaries intended for guitar use.
Follow the collumn straight down for each position, then scribble which pickup lead to connect on each terminal (the dots represent terminals), with polarity or series/parallel tinkering facilitated by deck three. I short the commons on deck three, deck one and two commons output to the 1/4" jack. You could also use a deck for ground and a deck for hot. Note: The input side (not the common side) should not have more than one lead per input terminal or you'll inadvertently create a non-switchable parallel connection.
Terminology may also contribute to confusion. Rotary switches are usually specified by number of decks, number of poles per deck, and number of shaft positions. Example: The rotary equivalent of a DPDT toggle switch would be a two-deck/one-pole-per-deck/two-position switch... OR it could be a one-deck/two-pole-per-deck/two-position switch. Adding to the confusion, industrial rotaries can have different pole configurations on each deck. Personally, I need the worksheet to plot out where to solder.
Tip: If you print it out at the right scale, the dots on the worksheet correspond to the pins on a Grayhill series 71 switch.
Currently working on a weird pickup configuration for the Warmoth guitar I'm building (why I signed up here... will post about it later) and made a scrappy worksheet (attached). Maybe it'll help others. The "Hum=1, 2, 3, 4" on my sheet refers to the primary coil signal and ground, then the reverse wound ground and signal of a humbucker. There are a lot more options (and hence planning required) for an industrial rotary switch compared to the predetermined two-deck rotaries intended for guitar use.
Follow the collumn straight down for each position, then scribble which pickup lead to connect on each terminal (the dots represent terminals), with polarity or series/parallel tinkering facilitated by deck three. I short the commons on deck three, deck one and two commons output to the 1/4" jack. You could also use a deck for ground and a deck for hot. Note: The input side (not the common side) should not have more than one lead per input terminal or you'll inadvertently create a non-switchable parallel connection.
Terminology may also contribute to confusion. Rotary switches are usually specified by number of decks, number of poles per deck, and number of shaft positions. Example: The rotary equivalent of a DPDT toggle switch would be a two-deck/one-pole-per-deck/two-position switch... OR it could be a one-deck/two-pole-per-deck/two-position switch. Adding to the confusion, industrial rotaries can have different pole configurations on each deck. Personally, I need the worksheet to plot out where to solder.
Tip: If you print it out at the right scale, the dots on the worksheet correspond to the pins on a Grayhill series 71 switch.
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