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Headstock question

Velcro

Senior Member
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For a  warmoth pro headstock do you need string trees? I would elaborate more, but I don't think I need to.
 
It depends on if it's  a tilt back headstock, and if you have staggard tuners, even then it may be subjective if you *need* retainers.

The following are tiltbacks and do not need retainers:
Angled Strat
Explorer
Jackson
LP
Warmoth
V
Angled Paddle
Variax
Super 7
Firebird (i think)
Kenneth Lawrence
 
My build has a straight peghead, and it does not require string tees. If the warmoth pro neck that you purchase has a straight peghead, buy string tees as a precaution but don't expect to need them. Angled pegheads aren't even an issue.
 
Velcro said:
For a  warmoth pro headstock do you need string trees? I would elaborate more, but I don't think I need to.

I have three Warmoth Pro necks w/ Strat headstocks, no tilt-back, and I don't have string trees on any of them. A well-made nut is important, though. My understanding is that Fender started putting the string trees on back 100 years ago because they had string retention problems due to too little time being spent on production nuts. Strings would pop out when bending during play, but bending the string down at a sharper angle behind the nut more or less cured it. Unfortunately, it often causes erratic tuning issues. Warmoth does a better job on their nuts, so it's not an issue with their necks.
 
i've never put string trees on my warmoth pro neck on my tele deluxe. although, either the B of high E string (can't remember which right now) is noticeably softer acoustically and i wonder if it might need a string tree. it's not so noticeable through an amp, but i'd still feel better having the full sound acoustically AND amplified.
 
Leo used the straight headstock because it was much cheaper to manufacture (and the extra durability didn't hurt anything). The straight headstock with 6-on-a-side tuners creates one small problem though: reduced breakover on the high strings. To get a good sound on the open strings you need the downward force on the nut that is created by having a proper breakover angle. Of course the simple, cheap, and effective solution is a string tree. I tried the no-tree, staggered tuner setup on my first Warmoth tele, but the high E was just a little too thin and weak. I spent a couple bucks and a couple minutes to install a string tree and suddenly the guitar sounded like it should. The next time around I saved myself some $$ and skipped the staggered tuners.  :)  Some people here seem to have good luck with the no-tree approach, but it's hit and miss. From now on for me, it's either an angled headstock or a string tree. Of course it doesn't hurt to try without it, you can add a string tree anytime.
 
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