G4 (new pics included!)

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
BODY:

* Warmoth G4 Bass Body
* One Piece Swamp Ash
* Flame Maple Top
* Black Pinstripe Accent Line
* Contoured Heel
* 1/2" Side Jack
* Double Battery Box Rout
* EMG35 x EMG35 Pickup Routing
* Transparent Sunset Orange

NECK:

* 13º Angled Bass Guitar Neck
* Warmoth Head
* Wenge
* Ebony Fret Board
* SS6100 Stainless Steel Fret Wire
* 21 Frets
* Mother Of Pearl Dots
* 1-1/2" Nut Width


HARDWARE:

* Schaller 3-D4 Bridge Black
* Schaller M4 Machine Heads Black
* Schaller Security Locks Black
* Warwick Standard Control Knobs Black
* Warmoth Neck Plate Black
* Warmoth Neck Plate Pad Black
* D'addario ProSteel Medium Strings

ELECTRONICS:

* 2 x EMG-35TW Pickups
* EMG Volume Pot Per Pickup
* EMG Tone Pot Per Pickup
* Apem ON/OFF/ON Switch Per Pickup
* EMG Master Volume Pot
* Apem Master ON/OFF Switch
* Red LED Indicator
* 2 x 9V Battery
* Warmoth Double Battery Box
* All Copper Foil Shielding
* Göldo Jack Black

How am I supposed to survive the remaining 6 to 8 weeks? As soon as the stuff arrives, I'll post the pics!
 

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
UPDATE:

It's here and:  :headbang1:

OH MY GOD! IT'S F*CKING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pics will be here soon.
 

faviviani

New member
Messages
2
Excuseme, you used schaller M4 machine heads, but I know that tuners fits 12 mm mounting hole and warmoth neck has 14 mm mounting hole...
I like that machine heads and i want like to use it for my warmoth neck... But i'm doubtful...
M4 fit properly on warmoth neck or... Dance in the hole???

Thank you very much!!!
Bye
 

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
I'm back!

Here are some pics:



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As can be seen in the pics, I made some parts myself. I used SolidWorks to design them and had them lasercut by my father (many thanks to him). The logo is an "S", from Steven, my  name. One will be on top of the headstock, the other on the backplate. I will also have the backplate engraved with some personal data. I hate plastic,  and decided to make a slightly larger control cavity cover. I will glue this to the original plastic cover from Warmoth. It will then completely cover the cavity instead of laying flush. I think that'll be more consequent with the battery rout cover and the neck plate, as they too are surface mounted. I will have those plates finished in BlackChrome by Schaller (yes, I am going to have it done by Schaller!), in the exact same colour as the bridge, tuners and strap locks. I will also apply this finish on all the rings for the controls. I  could not find rings with the same outside diameter and different inside diameters, so I also made those myself. Now, they all look the same, all having 10mm. outside radius. It really looks cool. I did not like the gap between the body and the pups, although I understand why Warmoth made the pup cavities slightly larger then the pups, in order to be able to install them. However, having made my own pup rings, I can now finish this esthetic problem. Those two rings will ben finished with bright nickel plating, although I am not 100% sure about that yet. I may have them finished in BlackChrome by Schaller as well.

I found these old rocker switches in an old hotel that was about to be demolished. I cleaned them and they rock! They are big and have this awesome rocksolid touch and click! I now know I do NOT like copper foil. The adhesive sucks. So I bought this copper conductive paint. Nice stuff. Easy to apply. I also changed plans on the controls. I bought BTC and VMC from EMG. 3-band EQ and they pups will be balanced with an active balance control, also by EMG, called the "ABC". The volume pot is a regular pot. The knobs will be sober, four in total, of wich two are stacked and...BLACK!
 

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
faviviani said:
Excuseme, you used schaller M4 machine heads, but I know that tuners fits 12 mm mounting hole and warmoth neck has 14 mm mounting hole...
I like that machine heads and i want like to use it for my warmoth neck... But i'm doubtful...
M4 fit properly on warmoth neck or... Dance in the hole???

Thank you very much!!!
Bye

I drilled the holes myself.
 

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
Hey everyone,

As can be seen in the pics, I made some parts myself. I am also going to make my own nut out of stainless steel (same as my frets). I'm gonna make it adjustable, like the Warwick Just-A-Nut, shown below.

4string.jpg


The reason why I don't just buy the Warwick nut is because it's dimensions. It simply does not fit my neck. Second reason is because stainless steel just looks so cool, as my frets are stainless steel too.

Like the other parts, I will first design this thing using SolidWorks.

Now, my question:

What is more important for the slots:

1. The distance between the center/cores from the strings should be equal, or
2. The distance between the side of the strings should be equal?

Thanks in advance!
 

FinLux

New member
Messages
19
And another question:

This is the bridge I'm using:
4___1467.jpg


The bridge was supplied with an extra plate. This plate can be used under the bridge in order to heighten the bridge and strings. In order to determine wether to use this plate or not, I need to know what the MAXIMUM string height OFF the frets at the bridge side is. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks!
 
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