FU-Tone bridge compatibility?

[labs_audio]

In addition to general bridge compatibility, what about block sizes? Any other parts that might have issues or special considerations? Given FU's goal is to be drop in replacements for Floyd Roses I'm assuming it'll be fine, but figured I'd check to see who has had experience with them first...
https://www.fu-tone.com/product/fu2-build-your-own-bridge-tremolo/

Also has anyone ever asked about doing a D-Tuna route?

 

[labs_audio]

I had a chat with Adam at FU-Tone and he recommended the following...

• Gotoh route (for recessed)
• 37mm block
  • Straight if you are going to float
  • L shape if dive only

Would still like to hear first hand experiences from anyone who built a Warmoth+FU Tone partscaster.

 

[stratamania]

I have not seen anyone on this board document anything built with an FU Tone bridge. The parts may get used or mentioned from time to time.

No one on this board has asked about a D-Tuna rout.
For it to work correctly, a D-Tuna needs to either have a non-recessed rout and to be decked; otherwise, it is not going to work, or it needs a means of making it dive only.

 

[PFDarkside]

I have not seen anyone on this board document anything built with an FU Tone bridge. The parts may get used or mentioned from time to time.

No one on this board has asked about a D-Tuna rout.
For it to work correctly, a D-Tuna needs to either have a non-recessed rout and to be decked; otherwise, it is not going to work, or it needs a means of making it dive only.

Can a spring loaded trem stabilizer provide enough counterforce to keep it in tune in D, but allow for a pull up?

 

[stratamania]

Can a spring loaded trem stabilizer provide enough counterforce to keep it in tune in D, but allow for a pull up?

I have not tried such a set-up, but I would suspect not. You need more than a stabilizer; you need to stop it from being able to be pulled up at all by either it being dive only decked or using something like a Tremel-no.

 

[labs_audio]

I have not seen anyone on this board document anything built with an FU Tone bridge. The parts may get used or mentioned from time to time.

No one on this board has asked about a D-Tuna rout.
For it to work correctly, a D-Tuna needs to either have a non-recessed rout and to be decked; otherwise, it is not going to work, or it needs a means of making it dive only.

Why wouldn't it work if you floated it and had a recessed route? I'd think that would provide the most space to pull up, no?

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

If you're fully floating, that should be your primary setup, then if you're going to selectively Drop D, the Tremol No is best for this as it fixes the bridge from pulling sharp by absorbing the tension offset by dropping the E down to D. If you're gonna Drop D, you won't be able to fully float without artifacts.

I tried one of those tree-stabilizers posted by PF Darkside before. They do allow you to drop, and pull, but they have that "knock" that occurs when it goes to lock the bridge in the "zero" position. Think of it like a double hinged door that swings both in and out. The closer it gets to that "zero" position, the more it wants to lock into that position. This is an artifact of the Term-Stabilizer that changes the feel of a fully floating bridge into more like a double hinged door. It impacts expressibility in a way that is more labor-some and distracting to my playing personally.

For this reason, I use the Tremol-No, and when I Drop D, I will usually have it in Hardtail mode because I'm likely recording a rhythm track only at that point.

 

[stratamania]

Why wouldn't it work if you floated it and had a recessed route?

It would work, to assist you in being able to pull up.

It would, however, prevent the D-Tuna from being able to detune to D and for the other strings to also stay in tune unless you have a means of stabilising the bridge.

You can have optimally one option at a time, pulling up or the D-Tuna working when stabilised.

I'd think that would provide the most space to pull up, no?

See above.
The space to pull up is the opposite of what is needed for a D-Tuna to work, due to the physics of how string tension versus spring tension on a floating bridge works. If you want the option to do both other things such as stopper or a stabilising mechanism are needed.

Here's a video that may help.