Fretboard Inlays

Johnny

Senior Member
Messages
271
So, I'm looking at doing another guitar and while this one won't be Warmoth, this site has become one of my main sources of information on building.  Plus, I've really come to trust and respect a number of the folks who contribute here.  So I'm looking for opinions/comments on my plan.

What I want to do is something a bit more involved than simply screwing pieces together in order to get more experience at building a guitar without committing myself to a full build.  The company supplying the kit will allow me to supply my own fretboard which they will then use to complete the neck.  So, what I want to do is obtain a fretboard blank and learn to install inlays.  I can obtain the a fretboard blank from StewMac and the inlays from De Paule Supply.  The picture shows a collection of their inlays named "Modern Art".  My preference is the ones with the square/rectangular design (right side of picture).  These only have nine inlays while the other options have ten inlays which may be problem since I'm going to have 24 frets.  I'll have to inquire whether there is a way to get the extra inlay or not; however, one of the things that appeals to me about this set it that it should be easier to route than some of the others. If I can't get the extra inlay, I'll have to go with the oval shaped set.  I'm trying to stay away from the ones on the left because they would probably be really hard to route for and fragile at the tips.

Also, I am planning on purchasing the following tool to do the routing for the inlays.

http://www.bluescreekguitars.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57&products_id=18

Any thoughts or comments on my plan?

Thanks!
 

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I guess if I was at the point where I wanted to get into more detail than just bolting things together, I'd pick another facet of the instrument than inlays. Seems like you're jumping into the deep end of the pool right away. But, that could just be me. I'd think starting with fretwork or finishing would be a better place to get into details not many others are willing to address, since those are more or less recoverable/reversible operations while mistakes with inlays are pretty permanent.

On the plus side, you'll spend a lot less on tools, and if you get good at it you won't have much competition for work that pays decently. You might be able to make more than minimum wage doing that sort of thing.

Actually, the more I think about it, you're probably going to have to get into fretwork anyway. A lot of the fancy inlay work I see on guitars involves continuous themes on the neck such as vines, barbed wire, dragons, etc. that run the length of the neck, rather than just alternatives to dots and blocks.

At any rate, good luck! I'm sure it'll be a fun learning experience.
 
And 2CFM. I imagine it's like a dentist's drill. Gonna need a lotta compressor to keep it fed.
 
Well Cagey, what can I say.  I'm a sucker for inlays.  To me it's something special on an instrument and thus, my interest.  However, once I complete the whole inlay process, I then get to try my hand at finishing the kit.

As for competition, I do plan on doing more inlay work but it's really just a hobby.  Of course, as you indicated, most everyone here who work on other guitars are pretty much doing it as a hobby anyway since this kind of work is probably only marginably more profitable than making money in a band.  :)

Regarding the 90 PSI/ 2 CFM requirment, I saw that but have no basis of comparison to have any opinion.  I found compressors for around $200 that had good reviews that matched or exceeded the spec, so I just figured that was reasonable.  Is this a concern or does it just seem high?

Also, I will be trying my hand at finishing the guitar, I figured I would be able to reuse the compressor for that step.
 
The tool's requirement is what it is, not much you can do about that if you want it to work, but I'd be suspicious of any compressor that met that spec and only cost $200. Down in that range the chances are you're going to starve the tool or the compressor isn't going to last long. Plus, be aware that while the compressor may come with a regulator, you're going to want an oiler and a filter to run tools with it, and if you think you're going to use it to paint, you'll need a separate outlet before the oiler and a separate hose to feed the spray gun. Can't have dirty or oily air in your paint.

For that tool, I'd be looking for something with at least a 12+ gallon tank, or the compressor will never shut off. You might consider looking for something even bigger, but used, for painting. It'll work just as well for tools, and you won't have to worry about it.
 
Ahhh...You're gonna make me work for it, aren't you?  Can't just tell me which one to get.  :laughing7:

I'm going to have to do some research and I DO need to do my own research so I know what I'm getting and why.  For instance, I did wonder about tank size, but I haven't checked to see what size might be needed.  I can see that this is going to cost more then I'd planned, but I always seem to be able justify spending money on tools that can be reused.  Anyway, I'll do my research and see if I can't post a couple of suggestions for air compressors and hopefully those of you with experience can let me know if they are good choices or not.

Thanks!
 
I'm a big fan of reusable tools, too. Thankfully, many of the pricier things one might need will often pay for themselves in only 2 or 3 jobs you don't have to farm out. I'm also of the opinion that it only costs a little more to go first class, and you're rarely sorry.

With compressors, it's easy to get fooled. Even small ones will often have specs that sound good as far as max pressure and CFM ratings. But, the trick is knowing how long they'll maintain that spec under use. That is, what is the duty cycle? Manufacturers will rarely tell you that. For instance, the little pancake contractor compressors or those units with a couple 1-2 gallon tanks will say they can deliver 135psi at 2cfm, but they don't tell you it'll only deliver air like that for about 10 seconds before the compressor kicks back on and you have to wait for it to recover. That's fine if you're running a nailer that only needs short bursts of high-pressure air, but you'll never paint anything with it or run anything that requires a constant air supply like a drill, grinder, impact wrench, etc. The spray gun will see inconsistent pressure and change pattern or atomization on you, or the tool will stop being effective.

For painting or any kind of tool use that requires lotsa air, you need a big, fluffy tank. Compressor loads it up, and you gradually bleed it off. It goes through a recovery cycle, lather, rinse, repeat and life goes on all day.

Another good thing about large tanks is the compressor doesn't run as often, so it lasts longer. Downside is a large tank takes a long time to come up to pressure in the first place. Once it's up, it tends to stay up, and your output is nice and even. Another plus with a large tank is you can use HVLP paint guns, which are nice. Makes for a fine finish with little overspray. Might want to head into the 20+ gallon range for those, though. What's getting to be more common with those are dedicated units that don't really have a compressor per se, as the pressure is pretty low. They just have a high-volume air supply that can be generated with a turbine.
 
OK, since four grand was a bit out of my budget, I found the following:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200455339_200455339?cm_ven=google_PPC&cm_cat=Air Compressors_Dynamic Campaigns&cm_pla=&cm_ite=puma pk5020vp&mkwid=s6Y2QI7eq&pcrid=20880234929&mt=e

It's got a 20 gallon tank which hopefully, will be big enough.  I read somewhere that this was the same thing as the Ingersoll Rand Garage Mate.  It was stated on some blog on the internet, so it must be true.

Anyway, after doing my homework, I decided I did not want an oilless unit (too noisy and it sounds like they are less reliable) and that a belt drive was probably the best choice.  I also looked at scraping the whole air compressor thing and going to a Foredom tool, but in the long run (e.g., since I will also be using this for painting), this seems less expensive and better a solution.

If this ain't right, somebody please stop me before I do something stupid...again!!!
 
Looks pretty good to me. I'd pick it if I were in the market. Oughta be able to get enough air outa that to do sandblasting if you wanted to.
 
If you have a gravity fed gun you will use less air painting a guitar than you would blowing up a beach ball.  I speak from experience. So if you are looking to "get by" a small compressor will be fine. If you are looking to use more air hungry tools for extended periods then your compressor choice will need to be adjusted acordingly. In a home/hobby atmosphere duty cycle isn't as important as some would like you to believe. You aren't going to use it for production work. Most home tasks with a 20 gallon tank for sure. I have used heavy air tools with mine with no problem. The only noticeable taxation was the DA on my old Buicks 7ft. long quarter panels. I have used my 1/2 inch impact for tires, pinion yoke nuts. I have used the air hammer for Ford I beam rivets and many other times and the Cambell Hausefield oil less compressor did just fine. I've had it for around 10 years now. It's used in the garage now and the little compressor is now my paint compressor. That's my experiences anyway.
 
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