Fret Finishing Questions (also, specifics on Micromesh versus Polishing Papers)

[joelavely]

I'm looking for some advice on polishing/smoothing frets after leveling them.

1 - I understand to sand across the fret with sandpaper then micromesh or polishing papers, going from coarser to finer grits.  My question is, what grits do you use, and how many different grits do you use?

2 - Once you choose your grits and number of different procedures, how long (approximately) do you spend on each fret?

3 - How do you "hold" the pads or papers?  I'm thinking it would be nice to have a "tool" of some sort that maybe had a large curved surface, kind of like a fret file, but probably a bit larger to allow some play.  Anyone do anything like that?  It would save some finger wear.

4 - Do you prefer Micromesh Pads or 3M Polishing Papers?

5 - When the Micromesh Pads get dirty looking, how do you clean them?  Straight water doesn't seem to get them clean, unless they just keep the dirty look and still work well?

 

[stratamania]

1. grits start at around 400, don't skip any grits and work your way up as far as you want. I've gone up to 12,000 but at that point it's polishing and a bit overkill.

2. The key is don't move up a grit until you are sure that the scratches of the previous grit are gone. It could be a few strokes but could be more.

Use 600 to take out the scratches of the 400, and then 800 to take out the scratches of the 600, and so on.

Also go in two directions. Across the fret and along it. Say five times one way and then five times the other.

3. I always wear disposable surgical type gloves. I've also used rubber backing pads. But for fine work I want to be able to feel the fret under my fingers.

4. I like the Micromesh and have enough of it so have not tried the papers. I suspect I would find a use for both.

5. Fret work is dirty and will wear the papers. It's not like doing a paint finish with wet and dry. If they wear too much, time to get another piece.

Edit.  I forgot to mention. Good light is vital to doing this job easily. Also use of an optivisor is well worth it.

Finally use a good soft metal polish to clean off the blackness. Unless you have a buffer use a soft cloth or shop towel.

 

[joelavely]

REALLY helpful response - thanks!

1 - I have 9 Micromesh pads in the multi-pack that came from StewMac.  Are you saying you would go through 400, 600, maybe 800 grit sandpaper, then use all 9 pads?  For a total of 12 separate 5-second sessions on all 22 frets?  That would be at least 45 minutes spent just "polishing" the frets?  Wondering what other folks do, in terms of routine polishing work?

5 - If I used the same Micromesh "pad" for each fret polishing job, how many guitars do you think you would get out of it?  Ballpark.

I know these are stupid little details, just want to know how folks are getting some of the beautiful, smooth, shiny frets I am seeing here!

 

[Verne Bunsen]

I'm interested to hear some responses to this as well. Seems I spend FOREVER running through polishing steps when I level/crown, between sand paper, fret erasers, polishing paper... Always seemed excessive, never thought to ask how other folks do it...

3 - How do you "hold" the pads or papers?  I'm thinking it would be nice to have a "tool" of some sort that maybe had a large curved surface, kind of like a fret file, but probably a bit larger to allow some play.  Anyone do anything like that?  It would save some finger wear.

I bought a Buzz-Off kit a few years ago and, while I don't honestly think it's a good way to produce a good fret job, it came with a wooden form contoured to ride the fret surface that I've found very handy. I wouldn't trust it with sand paper, which is what the kit calls for, but I use it for holding the polishing papers and it's awesome for that. Probably not worth the $20 on it's own, but if you've got one in a drawer somewhere...

http://www.amazon.com/J-S-Bogdanovich-Guitars-Buzz-Off®-Leveling/dp/B003WRG9SK

 

[stratamania]

You might want to take a look at this post of mine. It starts out about trem claws but then gets into the fret detailing.

http://unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=22445.msg338072#msg338072

Also earlier in that thread are other pictures of the earlier fret work. Those same strips of Micromesh I think have now done about four fret jobs on stainless steel. Some of it I will probably use a new strip for the next one.

Now I probably spent in total a number of hours on those frets. No factory would do that they haven't got the time. Also when I did that purple Strat I could not really see properly but didn't quite realise. The optivisor when I got it helped hugely. Since then I found out I needed spectacles. So now with those and lights on the optivisor itself it makes close up detail work far easier. Great for soldering too.

As I did more fret work I also found I got faster.

I might even take up fly tying again one of these days.

Oh and I am not a fan of steel wool. It can rust, pieces can stick to pickups and so on. Micromesh or the polishing pads are the way to go.

I've also got to the point where I am not a big fan of files for levelling. They are fine for bevelling and dressing ends but for later jobs I am going to move towards some diamond tools for the job, or sandpaper on a levelling beam.