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Flamecaster

partialdoctor

Junior Member
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I finished up my second build today and couldn't be happier with it. I am again amazed with quality of instrument one can produce with Warmoth parts. 
Here are the specs:

Body: Alder with Flame Maple Top
Finish: Transtint Dye to create burst, finished with Tru-Oil (done by me)
Neck: Pau Ferro on Pau Ferro, Abalone Inlays
Frets: 6100 SS
Pickups: Lollar Blackface single coil neck and middle, Lollar Imprerial F-spaced humbucker bridge
Bridge: American Standard Fender
Tuners: Schaller Locking
Nut: Graphtech

I wired the humbucker with two push pull controls that allow splitting of the coil plus a bridge enabling switch for using the bridge pickup in any position. The extra tones are great.

As soon as my new neck comes in for my Tele, I will be taking both guitars down to Baltimore to get Plekked and setup. Can't wait!

 

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Wow, I love that burst. Brilliant job, it actually does really look like flames  :party07:
 
I like that a lot!  How did you do the transtint?  Did you tint first then cover with tru oil, or mix the transtint in the tru oil?  Which colors did you use?
 
I just noticed something: in that picture it looks like your high e string is just barely over the poles for the bridge and middle pickup, and misses the polepiece entirely on the neck pickup. Is that just the angle of the photo?
 
dNA said:
I just noticed something: in that picture it looks like your high e string is just barely over the poles for the bridge and middle pickup, and misses the polepiece entirely on the neck pickup. Is that just the angle of the photo?

The same thing happened on my Strat, though on the low side. It doesn't seem to affect much, though it looks a little wonky. I always figured it was due to the iffiness of the Mighty Mite body and neck, so I'm surprised to see it on a W. Though as I said, I don't think it matters much. That's a great-looking gitter!
 
Jonesey said:
The same thing happened on my Strat, though on the low side. It doesn't seem to affect much, though it looks a little wonky. I always figured it was due to the iffiness of the Mighty Mite body and neck, so I'm surprised to see it on a W. Though as I said, I don't think it matters much. That's a great-looking gitter!


as far as i know it's just a matter of nut and bridge spacing, and making sure your pickups match. I know that the sensitivity depends on the pickup design - generally as long as you're over the polepiece it should be OK, but completely off could be problematic. I'm no expert though
 
Interesting. I probably would have never noticed. The picture definitely exaggerates the misalignment and only the high e on the neck pickup is marginal. That said, it doesn't affect the sound at all from what I can tell, so its no issue to me. I'm going to have it professionally Plek'd and setup so I'll ask him about it then.

Regarding the transtint, I used it first on the bare wood. I used three colors: Honey Amber, Reddish Brown, and Bright Red. I started with a mix of the reddish brown with a touch of the bright red and then sanded back leaving it in the stripes. Then I dyed the back a bright red with a tint of brown and a touch of amber and the front amber. Then I did the burst using the amber and red mix, keeping both wet and blending them together as described in this excellent video:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30182

Then I used Tru-oil on top of that.

Thanks for the kind words!
 
partialdoctor said:
Interesting. I probably would have never noticed. The picture definitely exaggerates the misalignment and only the high e on the neck pickup is marginal. That said, it doesn't affect the sound at all from what I can tell, so its no issue to me. I'm going to have it professionally Plek'd and setup so I'll ask him about it then.

Regarding the transtint, I used it first on the bare wood. I used three colors: Honey Amber, Reddish Brown, and Bright Red. I started with a mix of the reddish brown with a touch of the bright red and then sanded back leaving it in the stripes. Then I dyed the back a bright red with a tint of brown and a touch of amber and the front amber. Then I did the burst using the amber and red mix, keeping both wet and blending them together as described in this excellent video:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=30182

Then I used Tru-oil on top of that.

Thanks for the kind words!

I will have to try that on my Black Korina LP.  I love when Warmoth does a tobacco burst on BK.  I would like to something similar: amber to brown burst.
 
I will have to try that on my Black Korina LP.  I love when Warmoth does a tobacco burst on BK.  I would like to something similar: amber to brown burst.

One thing to mention is that the tru-oil really does darken the dye also imparts somewhat of an amber hue. The red specifically really got darker. Plan accordingly. Good luck!
 
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