NonsenseTele
Epic Member
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Congrats! 
Beware, when it arrive, be read with your camera, or it won't exist for us :laughing7:
Beware, when it arrive, be read with your camera, or it won't exist for us :laughing7:
First post, first warmoth, first build DONE! :) (Updated Feb 28 with pics)
- Thread starter manndreas
- Start date
I now have the body, neck, hardware and some of the electronics. I only miss the Nordstrand Pickup and the Aguilar Preamp, but that package is cleared through customs and should arrive any day now! :hello2:
Since last time I've routed the control cavity (turned out pretty ugly. I've never used a router before. But meh, I'm happy as long as the electronics fit) and shaped the forearm contour.
This is the first time I've done something like this to a guitar body, so I did expect it to not be perfect :b Also the bits that came with the router sucked. The only one I could use was like a 1/4 inch in diameter, and I spent all my money on the router, so I couldn't afford a set of better bits. But this also means that since I've invested so much in the tools, I have to keep on making guitars and basses so it won't be a waste of cash. :icon_biggrin:
Tomorrow I'll start the finishing work. Hopefully I'll have it all finished before the weekend's over.
I've documented every step, but relax, I won't bore you with 200 pics. Here's a few:
The control cavity looks uglier in the pic then in real life. The angle was pretty weird and made it look like the walls aren't straight. I' painted the shelf for the cover black so I could navigate the router better. Visibility was kinda limited at first.
Also if you look at the pic with the cover on, you'll see that because of the unusual body shape it partially covers the battery box route. However that won't be a problem since I've routed the cover to be flush with the body. So I just have to cut it not to go over the hole, and simply screw the one of the battery box screws through the cover.
Since last time I've routed the control cavity (turned out pretty ugly. I've never used a router before. But meh, I'm happy as long as the electronics fit) and shaped the forearm contour.
This is the first time I've done something like this to a guitar body, so I did expect it to not be perfect :b Also the bits that came with the router sucked. The only one I could use was like a 1/4 inch in diameter, and I spent all my money on the router, so I couldn't afford a set of better bits. But this also means that since I've invested so much in the tools, I have to keep on making guitars and basses so it won't be a waste of cash. :icon_biggrin:
Tomorrow I'll start the finishing work. Hopefully I'll have it all finished before the weekend's over.
I've documented every step, but relax, I won't bore you with 200 pics. Here's a few:
The control cavity looks uglier in the pic then in real life. The angle was pretty weird and made it look like the walls aren't straight. I' painted the shelf for the cover black so I could navigate the router better. Visibility was kinda limited at first.
Also if you look at the pic with the cover on, you'll see that because of the unusual body shape it partially covers the battery box route. However that won't be a problem since I've routed the cover to be flush with the body. So I just have to cut it not to go over the hole, and simply screw the one of the battery box screws through the cover.
It's finished.
Had some problems with the wiring (I F'ed up the 3-way switch, so it's temporarily out of the circuit), and the finish could have been done better. But all in all, I'm very happy, and I've learned a LOT. Especially about woodwork. Hopefully my next build will be much better :icon_biggrin:
Here's a pic of the body.
The controls are:
Nordstrand MM.5.2 > 3-way tele blade switch (series/spilt/parallel) > Aguilar OBP-3 (vol/bass/mid/treble) with a mid selector switch (to choose between 400 or 800hz for the mid pot, and a active/passive switch. The preamp is 18v.
The thing that amazed me the most about this bass is that, in spite of my HORRIBLE shielding job, it's completely 100% silent, even when I'm not touching anything. God, that copper tape was a bitch. I did not solder the tape together, and it didn't make a difference.
Had some problems with the wiring (I F'ed up the 3-way switch, so it's temporarily out of the circuit), and the finish could have been done better. But all in all, I'm very happy, and I've learned a LOT. Especially about woodwork. Hopefully my next build will be much better :icon_biggrin:
Here's a pic of the body.
The controls are:
Nordstrand MM.5.2 > 3-way tele blade switch (series/spilt/parallel) > Aguilar OBP-3 (vol/bass/mid/treble) with a mid selector switch (to choose between 400 or 800hz for the mid pot, and a active/passive switch. The preamp is 18v.
The thing that amazed me the most about this bass is that, in spite of my HORRIBLE shielding job, it's completely 100% silent, even when I'm not touching anything. God, that copper tape was a bitch. I did not solder the tape together, and it didn't make a difference.
dbw said:
Thanks!
hehe. Maybe that's why it doesn't work properly? =b To be more specific. It did work, but there was almost no signal at all. It functioned, but sucked out 90% of the volume. I'm guessing it's just me who soldered it crappy...
I'm not to skilled on the whole DPDT thingamabob, but I know Ernie Ball uses 3-way blade switches for their basses, and Seymour Duncan had a schematics for it that fit my needs on their site. I do hope I can make it work since I've already drilled the hole for it... =b
I drilled two holes for the screws, and freehand cut the hole for the blade with a Dremel. I don't recommend doing it that way though, because it looks pretty bad up close... I was in a hurry and needed to make the hole with whatever I could find in the garage. The black paint covers it up a bit, and I can certainly live with it...But, I don't recommend doing it :icon_tongue:
