First Build - LP Bass

[Dexterecus]

Hey everyone, first post, first build.

I'm thinking about trying a Warmoth project. But I've never done anything like this before. I would be getting help from my father and brother who both have experience with electronics and stuff like that.

Here's my specs, would you change/add something? I'm open to all thoughts:

Model: Standard LP Bass
Orientation: Left handed
Wood: Quilt Maple on Mahogany
UC Front Laminate: LT292
Rout: Rear Rout
F-Holes: None
Pickup Rout: None, , Music Man
Controls: V-X-X-X-X-XBridge: Bad Ass III - Non Thru
Top Finish: Fire Burst
Back Finish: Transparent Red
Jack Rout: 7/8" Side
Binding: Cream Binding
Neck Pocket: Standard Bass Pocket
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Battery Box: None

Style: L.P. Bass
Construction: Bass Angled
Neck Wood: Indian Rosewood
Fingerboard Wood: Bubinga
Orientation: Left Handed
Nut Width: 1 11/16"
Back Shape: Standard thin
Fret Size: 6130
Tuner Ream: GB7 (14mm)
Inlays: Cream Face Dots
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: White Corian
Finish:
Radius: Straight 10"
Scale: 34 in.
Fret #: 24
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt

I'm looking for a really heavy bass with loooooooooooaaads of sustain. I'm mainly going to use it to play stoner doom/sludge with it.

 

[DangerousR6]

Sounds like a cool project, take your time and have fun with it.... :icon_thumright:

And welcome to the madness..... :laughing7:

 

[bbl4ck]

I am not really a bass man, but from what I can see it sounds like a great project.  :icon_thumright:

I love fire burst  :headbang:

Be sure you are posting lots of pics as you work through it. 

Welcome to the forum...  :hello2:

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I saw the BadASS III non-thru on the search filter and am confused by that.  What is it?  I thought the string-thru (and mounting hole) is what made the Bad ASS III different from the I and II.  If the option is there, and it is, I would always get sting-thru.  The route cost is no different, and most string-thru bridges are often top-load combos that can do either.  The only extra cost is string ferrules, which are $1 a piece for chrome.  You can always top load your bridge if you wanted, but if it was top load only, there's no choice.  Sustain-wise, a string thru should do a better job, but in the real world it's a matter of opinion.

 

[whyachi]

Thats if you have a three-screw bridge route instead of the Badass II's five-screw and don't want it strung through the body. Some old Fenders used three-screw bridges. Just another option I guess.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

If that's the case, I would opt for the Bad ASS II non string-thru (and Gotoh 201 route) with the 5 mounting holes just because there's more bridges available with that mounting pattern.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Also, depending on whether or not the MM pickup in question is passive with active EQ, or totally active (EMG), get a battery box route if there's a battery involved.  Sure there's enough room in the rear route cavity, but battery changes are nice without tools.

 

[whyachi]

Plus, the Badass II goes for $60 on ebay and the III runs $100+. According to Leo Quan, the III is made out of something different than the II that improves on the tone. I don't have a body to hook mine onto yet, so I can't comment.

 

[Nando Vallart]

Sounds really cool! Be ready with your camera when it arrives!!!

Welcome to the boad  ccasion14: