First bass build, opinions desired

[Tele-me about it]

Ok, so I've been tossing back and forth in my mind a Warmoth build for about a year now, and I think I've made the almost final decisions.  Just have a few questions, and looking for peoples opinions on the build and also its... synergy (*shudders* hate that word.)  I've been playing 8 years, but by now I know literally nothing besides my EBMM Bongo5, because I've never needed any other bass whilst owning that one.

Ok, the build with all black hardware:

Hollow T-bass body with F-hole, contoured heel, no binding, Tru-oil finish
-Lacewood laminate on Black Korina core
-Hot for P-Bass SPB-2; neck position
-Hot stack for Jazz Bass STK-J2; standard bridge position
-Steve Bailey 2-band Tone Circuit for passive, fretless bass
-Schaller 463 bridge

Right-handed reverse Tele neck (yes, I will be using a string retainer)
-Pau Ferro fretless board on Goncalo Alves shaft
-Graphite rods (mainly for the balance)
-1-11/16th" nut (should provide similar spacing to my current bass if it were 4-string)
-Black TUSQ XL nut
-Burnished shaft

~)Is it any harder or different to Tru-oil Lacewood?  Would it be a waste of good Lacewood?
~)Anyone have any experience with the pickups or Steve Bailey tone circuit? Any compatibility issues between them?
~)Would there even BE a balance issue with steel rods in the neck?
~)Any other particular thoughts or opinions?  It sounds good on paper to me, but I've only played one bass for the past 5 years or so...

Thanks everyone!  If all goes well, I'll hopefully be putting in my order next week  :toothy12:

(Edit: I suppose I should add that my preferred music styles are progressive rock, funk/disco, jazz fusion, and little bits of everything else)

 

[Cagey]

According to this database entry, Lacewood is fairly coarse-grained, as is Limba (Korina). While that doesn't preclude an oil-based finish, it does mean you may want to spend some time/effort on grain-filling. It's not difficult, but it is time-consuming. In the end, you have a much nicer finish, so it's worth the effort. Something like this would work well. Might take 2 or 3 applications to get things right, but you'll be happier overall.

 

[bagman67]

This is a video about using grain filler - it refers to Behlen products, but the underlying concepts are the same for any product.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHVoXZk-PF0

 

[Day-mun]

I don't have much to say about the pick-ups and tone circuit; most of my basses have two knobs, one pick-up, and no frets. -Pretty bass-ic.  :laughing7:

But your music preferences would call for that bridge pick-up. I do have a Jazz with a SD quarter-pound Jazz bridge pick-up; -not as obnoxious as one might think... but that doesn't answer any of your questions.

-Only thing I'd say is that I'd highly recommend getting 'em to do a forearm contour. I am replacing a '51 P bass body with a '54 because my plucking/picking hand falls asleep on that body edge with the 3/16 radius! I knew this happened to me with Tele guitars, but went ahead with the '51 as I thought "Oh, -bass will be different..."  :doh:

 

[greywolf]

I've built several instruments using lacewood .  It's quite pourous , takes dye very well and is a bit soft .  Tru-oil is a good idea IMHO , I typically use French polish..  it takes many coats .

 

[Tele-me about it]

Man, I'm really glad you both mentioned about fillers.  Took a look at clear fillers on amazon, didn't find many options but there was a clear filler/sealer from Birchwood Casey -- think I might go with that and just stick with the one product line.

That pun, Day-mun... love it! Lol.  I've used that many times with some of the people I've known, and I always get that "Did you just really?..." expression.

Glad to hear you like the quarter pounder though.  The size of those magnets is ridiculous!  If it wasn't a single-coil I'd prob be checking out that PJ setup instead :dontknow: But I'll hafta give Warmoth a call to see if the forearm contour is available on hollows outside of the online builder -- I can't imagine playing with a numb hand would be very fun (well... in these regards, at least...  Hah! I need to go shower after that dirty joke).

Anyways, thanks everyone for the help so far! ccasion14:  Feeling a lot more confident/excited now!  :hello2:

 

[Cagey]

Sticking with one brand usually isn't as important as giving whatever you're using time to cure. It's the solvents that'll kill your work, so you have to give them time to boil off.

Another few things to be aware of are:

1. Never shake the can. Stir it. Slowly. Bubbles are your enemy.
2. Clear filler doesn't look clear in the can. It looks like a quart of water with a couple tablespoons of milk mixed in. Pay no attention. When applied, it'll be clear.
3. You'll need to sand the filler back. It's not a good finish on its own. Also, it may take several coats to get the surface level. Again - be patient. It pays.

 

[bagman67]

And when it comes to filling, like Cagey says, you may need to do multiple applications to get the job done.  Some more tips:


1. When you sand, don't use a lot of elbow grease.  Let the abrasive do the work.  IF you force the issue, you're likely to overdo it and remove more than you intend - which yields more filling and more swearing.


2.  Buy good sandpaper.  Cheaping out on sandpaper means your paper's more likely to clog (which can scratch your surface) or tear (which could lead to scratching your surface) or lose abrasive particles (which could lead to scratching your surface).  If memory serves, the Behlen video indicates stearated sandpaper,which is supposed to reduce clogging. 


3.  It is time-consuming but incredibly educational to attempt your finishing schedule on a scrap of lumber of the same species as your guitar body.  Consider doing this - it's saved me more than one screw-up on the real deal.

 

[Unrepresented]

A hollow body plus the limited upper horn on the tele body is going to contribute towards a high likelihood of neck dive, assuming that this will be a 34" scale instrument.

 

[stratamania]

On the Birchwood sealer filler which I have experience of it isn't quite the same as those cream consistency fillers. It would not be too much good for something such as ash. It's more like cellulose dope that I used to use on model aircraft.

Remember the BC products are made for gunstock finishes and the pores a gun user is going to come across are unlikely to be as open as something like an open grain guitar body.

 

[Tele-me about it]

No shaking?  Sounds like I'm making cocktails now! ccasion14: It's something about the drink becoming oxygenated, causing it to warm up faster (man, Good Eats was a cool show).  I imagine with the filler it's prob just because air bubbles will ruin the process of it and make it look... well, horrid.  I was figuring on at least 2-4 coats of filler at the least just to make sure, but yes -- definitely sanding in between, lightly, with good paper.  I'll hafta see if there's a place online I could get scraps from, don't think there's any place in my area that would have em.  CrystaLac is another product (clear) that I might be taking a look into for a filler.  Found 1 video pertaining to it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLkiVD_etP4 .  Looks like I'll be sticking with good ole graphite in the neck too.  Would be something else if I could convince them to do a Tele with the upper horn of a Jbass though!  Maybe for a future body blank...  :headbang1:

 

[Cagey]

I always enjoyed "Good Eats", too. Alton Brown is pretty sharp on the subject. He's got a book out called "I'm Just Here For the Food" that you might consider getting a copy of, if you like to cook. It's less of a cookbook than it is a textbook - lots to learn in there.

The bubble thing in filler is pernicious. You usually don't notice it until you start to realize you're re-applying filler to fix your filler. The bubbles leave little holes, and that's NFG. Little holes are what you're trying to fill, not create.

You shouldn't need anything special for sandpaper. For flattening out filling, you don't need anything finer than 320 grit, which is pretty common. Some guys even use 220. You do need some hard rubber blocks, though. If you try doing it by hand, you'll make it all wavy and that'll definitely show up in the end when you put on the fine finish.

 

[Cagey]

I should also mention that you're going to want a sgueegee of some sort when you're applying the filler. Forces the material in to the voids as well as saving you a helluva lotta sanding once it hardens.

 

[bagman67]

In re squeegees:  Some folks use an old credit card; others use a purpose-made tool like Cagey linked to;  I've had okay luck with auto-body bondo spreaders.

 

[Cagey]

Actually, the link I provided does lead to auto body filler squeegees. They're about 1/4 of the price of the same sort of thing from a luthier's supply house and they last longer.

They all wear fairly fast, though. Filler is full of particulate matter, so it's somewhat abrasive.

 

[bagman67]

Yep, I bought a box of a dozen at Harbor Freight for about three bucks.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

That body shape with that scale length is begging for neck dive.

I've done the right hand reverse thing on 4 Warmoth bass builds.  Love it!  If you're not decided on which string retainer to use yet, look at the Hipshot ones.  The 2 string retainer works, but myself and others have used a 3 string retainer on 4 string basses.

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