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FINISHING solid body mahagony, no top.

Surtur

Newbie
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Hi guys,
I've googled the messageboard for this topic, but most of the threads are about finishing mahagony with top.

That's my first project. I just received my new mahagony flying V-style body, all solid, no top. Thousands of thanks to Warmoth, you guys do your job for 100%.

I'm confused about the finishing process as I don't have any spraying equipment and finishing experience.
I was thinking of Tru Oil/Danish Oil finish, but I heard that it's not long lasting and needs to be periodically refreshed, I don't want to do that as disassembling the guitar all the time seems to be a crap.
I like some natural/satin finishes, like this http://www.drumcityguitarland.com/drumcitygl/stores/1/USED-ESP-Standard-Series-FX-Paduak-Brown-Stain-6-String-Electric-Guitar--P4280C426.aspx and this http://www.drumcityguitarland.com/drumcitygl/stores/1/Schecter-DIAMOND-SERIES-BLACKJACK-ATX-C-7-Walnut-Satin-2011-7-String-Electric-Guitar-P4393C445.aspx
Who has done solid mahagony finish before, please advise!


 
Just found incredible finish of the mahagony body. http://www.warmoth.com/Gallery/GalleryEntry.aspx?id=2067
How to do that?
 
While Danish Oil may need to be reapplied occasionally, that's not true of Tru-Oil. Danish Oil will give a more satin/matte finish, but Tru-Oil is going to be glossier.

If you want a finish like the 2 examples, you can you Minwax oil stains to get those colors, red mahogany for the Explorer example and dark walnut or jacobean for the Schecter example, depending on the coloration of the mahogany you get.

Are you planning on filling the grain?
 
Yes, I will do the grain filling.
While Danish Oil may need to be reapplied occasionally, that's not true of Tru-Oil. - Does this mean that tru oil is applied once and there won't be need to refresh it?
 
Surtur said:
Yes, I will do the grain filling.
While Danish Oil may need to be reapplied occasionally, that's not true of Tru-Oil. - Does this mean that tru oil is applied once and there won't be need to refresh it?

That's correct - you won't need to refinish your guitar to refresh the Tru-oil's protective properties.  Tung oil and other penetrating oils do not form a permanent film like Tru-oil does.  They do need to be refreshed to maintain their protective properties. 
Tru-oil actually polymerizes to form a hard (well, harder than a real oil, but softer than polyurethane) barrier.  Tru-oil is a mixture of boiled linseed oil and other chemicals and is probably correctly classified as a varnish, if I remember the teachings of Tonar et al. on this board correctly.  Anyway, it's easy to use and looks beautiful.

Peace

Bagman
 
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